Working on a T-Coupe at the moment. It came with a 39 type banjo diff mounted in it without a torque tube or an open drive shaft conversion. I'm of the opinon that the split radius rods will not be strong enough without a 3rd member, hence we are going to put in a shortened torque tube and put a sealed bearing in the end of it before gearbox and run a short driveshaft, with UJ's to opendriveshaft gearbox. MY QUESTION IS; has anyone seen this done before or have you come across any pics of using about 3/4 of torque tube then a short open driveshaft. Also what do you think would be a good front piviot to go at the front of torque tube ,under neath it.......I was thinking maybe a big (about 2.5---3") rubber bush like the front of a 4x4 rear 4 bar ?...............it has to be able to pivot sideways as well as up 'n down...... The diff looks to be about a '39 running a cross spring mounted behind axles and the radius rods are mounted about 4" in from backing plates, then running pretty parallel on outside of chassis and secured with heavy ball joints. Going to put this new front torque tube mount in line with these ball joints. Cheers .
Hmmmm.....I'm not too good with posting pics. I'm pretty sure someone has done or seen this done before. Don't tell me a practical old Kiwi is going to invent something new with a banjo diff........
If Im reading this right..you want to run a torque tube most of the way forward,mount it to the chassis through a large rubber bush, then a short driveshaft with unis at either end to a normal open drive type gearbox. Is that right? If it is, its pretty bloody weird,and will look (and probably act) super hokey! why not get a pair of 36 wishbones, and an opendrive kit from Hotrodworks.com (or build one yourself, not too hard ) then strengthen the bones and run them up to a bush, and go open drive right to the diff? its probably less work than what you are suggesting, and will look a lot less botched together. The reason you havent seen it done before is because it is disingenious. please dont think Im being a smartarse..its just a rather odd and roundabout way of changing to open drive.
A mix of Kiwi ingenuity and farm boy engineering . You have to learn how to post piks Gerard. And you've probably seen them, but incase you haven't there's a pair of 35/6 rear radius rods on TM (incase yours are weaker ones) and I think they're down your way and auction closes tomorrow. Piks man....
Yep you got it all right squire, and I take no offence. Kelz is correct, as My farm workshop doubles as a Hot Rod/Jalopy revivale shop (usually biased toward Modern A's) as well. The reason for trying to go with a shortened torque tube is that the diff has been mounted using the lighter '39 type radius rods,we could strengthen the bones and make it open all the way.But we're looking to do something a little different......
Hehe. I'm only a little fella. and this T doesn't belong to me,it belongs to Mr B... If you look hard enough on HotRodRevue forum you'll see a pic.I thought you would of seen it over there This link is the best I can do. http://www.hotrodrevue.co/viewtopic.php?f=8&t=1666&start=10 Hope Fattoy doesn't mind, because I'm putting up this link without asking him.. Cool car though chassis built in the states.
Don't waste your time, shitcan the flathead diff like you are canning the motor and box. If Barry isn't confident in the real ( flathead) motor you might as well put a matching 8" diff in too. He is worried about the unreliability of the flathead, how is he going to handle a broken axle, dropped brake drum, wheel etc.....unless of course you already know that the SBF won't break wind, let alone parts.
Greetings! Instead of trying to utilize thin-wall rear radius rods make some from a front wishbone, the tubes are much thicker in cross section. A good choice is a 41-48 Mercury wishbone, those cars had a longer nose hence a longer front wishbone.
Use the advanced search for threads started by Pete 1. He built a neat system to adapt the Ford torque tube to an open drive transmission-one which sounds a lot like what you're trying to do. Slip yoke in rear of transmission mated to Ford u-joint thru a fixed, fabricated cross member which carries the clamshell/ball mount. Since it retains the torque tube, it doesn't require strong radius rods.
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