Projects my first project thread, 52 Desoto

When I go to start a motor that has been out of commission for years the first thing I do is NOTHING. I inspect the engine carefully for damaged or missing parts, check oil, check the points, carburetor, but I only change one thing at a time then try to start it. 1) disconnect fuel line and connect a motorboat tank or gas can of fresh fuel 2) remove and inspect plugs, clean and gap if necessary, squirt some oil in the cylinders 3) possibly remove valve covers, oil valve mechanism and check the valves are free by tapping lightly with a hammer on the rocker arm 4) turn the engine over by hand, if it turns easily 2 full turns 5) spin it on the starter until oil pressure comes up 6) check the plugs are all firing, if not fix ignition until they do 7) put plugs back in, check if carb is getting gas 8) spin it over and see if it starts. If it starts, fill rad with water and let it run at fast idle for 10 or 15 minutes.

That would be ideal. It may be necessary to clean the carb, points etc but I seldom need to replace parts just to get the motor going. Once it is running you can evaluate condition. If it has decent compression and decent oil pressure it should be OK. When you revive an old engine it usually runs better and better after a few hundred, or a few thousand miles.

 

Having some trouble getting the new ignition lock cylinder to lock into the ignition switch. It doesn't want to go the final eighth inch.

 

Well my worst fear may be coming a reality, the motor might be stuck, i've sprayed PB blaster in the cylinders and tried turning it over by hand with a socket and a large cheater bar and it wont budge the plugs weren't in it when i got it and im not sure how long they have been out. Ive read about the 50/50 acetone and tranny fluid mix down the carb so may try that otherwise I might just pull it and tear it down and see what im in for, hoping to maybe get away with just a rering on it but im sure ill end up going for more once its apart on the stand.

 

Make sure all the valves move. I have encountered a stuck valve that wouldnt allow an engine to turn over.

 

ill pull the covers and check, thanks for the tip!

 

I love it, that's gonna make a great driver. Don't listen to all the haters, build what you want and enjoy it.

 

Pulled the valve covers, all the valves seem ok, still cant get it to turn over, getting ready to pull out, plan to pull it next week after vacation and start tearing it down and see what im in for

 

Today was a good day, scored a cherry picker and engine stand off CL for $75, So i'll be pulling the motor and trans tomorrow evening, I also got a running 283 for $200 in case the Hemi is in really bad shape once i pull it apart. heres how she looks atm

 

A good running 276 in that car will enhance the value of such a complete car immensely.
A SBC engine will seriously diminish the value of that car.
Once you "clip" it, the big value of what you have will be gone for good.
I love both engines myself.

 

No longer going to clip it. It has power steering already and I found someone who sells a kit to convert the front brakes to disc

 

Look at the shock relocation kits also.

 

I will look into those as well, thank you


Got the motor out of it last night! Took about 3 hrs and would have went a little smoother had I taken the cross member out but oh well. Next step is to separate motor and trans and then start tearing the motor down. Wont have time again to work on it again till Sun evening

 

Don't know what your level of Hemi knowledge is, or if you've found the Hemi Tech Index yet, but...The converter is held on by 8 nutted studs through the crankflange, tends to be a problem with a stuck engine.

 

Get the heads off first to determine if the pistons are seized beyond merely acetone and tranny fluid to unstick it. Getting that converter out without being able to turn the crank is beyond my abilities, which is why I'd do everything I could to persuade that engine to turn. A last resort would be to carefully chisel out a stuck piston. Takes forever and you can't slip up and gouge the cylinder wall, not even a little bit.

 

Very nice and very complete project...
Good for you....
Gonna watch this one..so keep us on pictures and progress...

 

Shit I didnt even think of that Guess I will pull the intake and heads off where it sits and see what I am working with. I dont know a whole lot about Hemi's, slowly learning, this is my 1st one, most of my experience with building engines is w/ SBC's

 

EXCELLENT FIND! Tudor hardtop really makes it rare for a MOPAR. Resist temptation to tear it apart with frame off, front clip.etc. I screwed up a great tudor hardtop 53 Coronet with 273 Hemi, by biting off a major project (wanted to put it on a S10 frame). Couldn't finish it myself and wound up farming it out to Yo-Yo's who just sucked my bucks and folded up shop,etc. Car went to junk yard! Sold Hemi on eBay.
Just get it running/driving, and work on it as you enjoy it! GREAT GRILLE, as you have been told. Hood ornament (mascot) for Hernando with light up head is rare, but they're out there! Best of hot rodding fun ahead!!!

 

There will be a way to get the converter off. I had an Oldsmobile engine with the same
problem (stuck and needing to turn to get to converter bolts).
I ended up taking the main bearing caps off, and then the rod caps off, and lifting the
crankshaft out while still attached to the transmission.
Now you're getting into the real fun of hot rodding...solving new problems.
Wait until you hear that hemi running with low restriction exhaust. It will be worth it!!

 

That's the ticket right there!

 

...doesn't work so well on an EarlyHemi...

If there is a piston that refuses to move then it will have to be 'removed' from the top, in pieces.

.

 

Taking a seat in the back of this "Stuck Hemi" class. Great car, good luck!

 

just pulled the intake and drivers side head off and I think i found the stuck piston, gotta head to work but gonna pull the other head off when i get home and will update with pics then

 

Be very cautious about using a BFH to move the piston. A recent thread on the same subject eventually offered the info that two cylinder walls were broken by beating on the pistons.....

.

 

well got the other head off it and there are 2, possibly 3 pistons that are stuck, cylinder walls look good for the most part, hope i will be able to get the pistons out and get away with just a hone. Also really stumped about how im gonna separate the trans so i can get the motor on the stand to take the bottom end apart, im planning to use a powerglide regardless of what motor goes in it so if it comes down to it i may just break the bell housing to get to the converter studs if thats what it comes down to but i would hate to do that, here's some pics

 

Let it soak with 50-50 ATF and acetone for several weeks before beating on it too much. Also might heat help? Pump hot water thru the block somehow? A few heat cycles may move things a little.

 

Run a ½" drill bit through the tops of the offending pistons (1-2 million holes) until you break the wrist pin free and the crank can move. Soaking with all kinds of witches brew is only useful if you are trying to save the pistons.

 

Well I am holing to save the pistons. Cant really afford the 2k for the full rebuild kit. Hoping to get away with the rering kit which is 500. The pistons look to be in pretty good shape

 

Very cool car you have with an even cooler engine. I hope you're able to get it up and running.

I did an early Mopar as my first American car project. Everyone who has chimed in here with advice did so on my build and they are an immense help so listen to them.

I'm pretty sure the Desoto stuff is mechanically similar to the Chrysler stuff I used. A front disc brake kit from Old Daddy aka Charlie along with upgrading to power brakes was a huge improvement!

From what everyone else has advised me in the past, leave the rest of it alone and all Mopar. I did the 360/727 swap as my flathead 6 had a knock. The Hemi is worth the effort.

Good luck man, nice little project. NAES

 

Thanks for the kind words, going to try and keep it all mopar for the most part, i dont want to use the original tranny and i dont much about mopar trannys so i was thinking i would just get an adapter from hot heads and throw a powerglide in there. I plan to use the brake conversion kit from old daddy, I have already been in contact with him. How did you do the powerbrake conversion? car currently has the MC under the drivers floor, easy to access for the time being due to a rust hole in the floor

 

The 904 or 727 3 speed transmissions are an awesome design. If I were to do it over again I would get the updated 518 which has overdrive. I'm currently dropping the rear end gear ratio for better freeway cruising.

As for the MC I was able to squeeze a 7" boosted power unit under the front floor. I had to put a bump in the floor by the gas pedal which acts as my MC reservoir filler also. Doing it over I would have put the bump under the seat. A little more cumbersome but cleaner looking. Just make sure to get it high enough to clear speed bumps and other road hazards. Ran all new brake lines so it wasn't too difficult. I just followed the path of the originals and modified as needed for my needs.

If you have to swap the rear end depending on your transmission, 733RR is your guy. He's a big fan of the Explorer rear end which has factory disc brakes so there's no conversion needed.

Here's links to my build and photobucket. I moved all my pics around so the build links are dead now. One day I'll fix it all.

HAMB link
http://jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=505838

Photobucket link. Start at the end and work backwards
http://s52.photobucket.com/user/southern_killafornia/library/Cars/Chrysler?sort=3&page=10

NAES