I've been driving my '56 pickup these last 4 days and have put around 70 miles on it so far. There are a few issues I need to deal with, but the main one that is driving me crazy is the sloppy steering. I need to be clear here, the truck tracks great, doesn't have any bump-steer whatsoever, doesn't wander, etc... All the slop appears to be in the steering box and is around 3 to 3 1/2 inches total before front wheel response. This is the style where you have an outer lock nut that you back off and then a screw that sets sector depth followed by tightening the outer nut back down. I rebuilt this box using the best parts from 4 different steering columns. What ended up in the current steering box where parts that were hardly worn, had no brindling and all fit together tight. I tightened the sector set screw down until it was just barely snug and then backed it off 1/2 turn to prevent binding. I know that the larger nut and bearing depth screw at the base of the steering box affects steering shaft end play, but that doesn't seem to be an issue and I don't think that would affect left to right slop in the wheel.
FYI: I'm considering upgrading using OEM parts from another vehicle (separate steering column and steering box) or new parts... I read somewhere about a company that is offering a universal steering box that can be clocked to match the frame mounting points of most older vehicles. Anyone have any ideas, advice? Thanks...
Two thought, one 1/2 turn may be too much, second there is another setting that is controlled with gasket thickness which controls up and down motion in the steering shaft. Note the screw adjustment must be made with the box at mid travel which is the tightest point and clearance gets bigger when you turn left or right. If made at any other than mid point it will be loose.
You didn't mention make or model so this may not help but then again... http://www.flickr.com/photos/advance-design_parts_co/8257853639/in/set-72157632210242370
Probably didn't steer worth a dam from brand new just like everything else they made back then. I don't know if you can use a 525 or not but i'd be looking for a upgrade. Tradition or not.
See below... http://www.summitracing.com/search/product-line/borgeson-universal-saginaw-525-manual-steering-boxes
If that big "nut" ( I'd call it a plug on a Saginaw) at the bottom isn't adjusted up to spec (quite snug) it'll allow the worm shaft to work up or down instead of moving the sector gear. That CAN account for some play. Make sure when you adjust the sector gear backlash that the steering gear is centered. Most manuals advise to disconnect the drag link so you're working with just the gear. Wheels straight ahead ain't necessarily an indicator of the gear being centered.
That makes sense. I snugged it up when I first rebuilt it but it may need to be readjusted now that I've driven the truck.
This may help because there are 2 adjustments needed, not just one - http://www.stovebolt.com/techtips/saginaw.htm Saginaw Steering Sector Adjustment [FONT=Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]If you have a Saginaw recirculating ball-type steering, [/FONT]here are only two(2) adjustments to be made to this gear and the following procedure "must" be made step by step "in the order given." 1. Disconnect drag link from the pitman arm. 2. Loosen the sector shaft lock nut (it is located on the side of the steering box.) and turn the adjusting screw a few turns counter-clockwise. (This removes from the worm bearings the load imposed by close meshing of rack and sector teeth.) Turn the steering gear "gently" in one direction until stopped by gear, then turn it back one turn. 3. With a cheap spring scale, measure the pull on the rim of the steering wheel (hook the spring on one of the radial arms next to the outer part of steering wheel) which is required to keep the wheel in motion. This pull should be between one( 1) and one-and-a half (1-1/2) lbs. If the pull necessary to move the wheel does not lie between these measurements, then adjustment of the worm bearings as necessary. 4. To adjust worm bearings, loosen the worm shaft lock nut (it is at the opposite end of the steering box from the steering wheel shaft) and turn the worm bearing thrust screw until there is no perceptible end play in worm. Check pull on wheel rim, readjusting if necessary to obtain proper pull. Tighten lock nut and re-check pull, as it must lie between 1 an 1-1/2 lbs. after locknut is tightened. 5. After you have properly adjusted the worm and all mounting bolts are securely tightened, adjust cross shaft lash adjuster as follows: 6. First turn the wheel "gently from one stop to the other, carefully counting the number of turns. Then turn the wheel back half (half the number of turns) way to center position. Mark the steering wheel at the top or bottom in the center with a piece of tape. 7. Turn lash adjuster (it is inside the sector shaft lock nut) clockwise to take up all lash in gear teeth and tighten lock nut. 8. Check -- pull on wheel rim with spring scale as before; taking highest reading as wheel is turned through center position. Now, this should be between two (2) and two-and-one half (2-1/2) lbs. 9. Readjust, if necessary, to obtain proper pull. Tighten locknut and re-check pull, as it "must" lie between 2 and 2-1/2 lbs after lock nut is tightened. 10. Connect drag link to pitman arm. 11. Go have a "cool one"- (Editor's note: Oly, would this procedure be more fun if we made this step #1?) you have just successfully adjusted a Saginaw steering sector. I only hope you don't need to rebuild it. That would probably take me a day or two to write it correctly. Robert Oeleis "Oly"
Check into a toyota 4x4 box they work great and come in power and standard. The ones that are pre 1986 with SOLID axle are the ones you want.Same box all the aftermarket kits use that are big bucks!
Just a suggestion, Lares corp. Cambridge Mn. larescorp.com I have sent steering box's for rebuild and was happy w/ price and service. I am NOT an expert, but when a steering box needs alot of adjustment, its wore out and it needs to be rebuilt for safety and proper adjustments . It will come back adjusted correctly for you. John
DAMNIT this is irritating... OK, so I lifted the truck this morning, detatched the drag link, found the exact center between left lock and right lock, backed off the sector lock nut, turned down the sector depth screw until it just touched and held it there while tightening the sector lock nut. Reattached the draglink and turned the wheel. Still had about 2 inches of play before I could visibly see the wheels turn. I can live with 2 inches if I have to, but as soon as I put the truck back on the ground I'm back to 4+ inches of play in the wheel. I don't get it. The tie-rod ends are new and the draglink I reinstalled was hardly worn. Would too much play in the kingpins cause this?
BTW: what I mean by too much play is that the drivers wheel tilts in about 1/8" at the top when I push on it and the p***enger wheel tilts in about 1/16" at the top when I push on it.
Well, that is amplified to the outside top edge of the tire...there isn't actually 1/8" play in the kingpin itself.
Dude, your other steering components are shot and you're worried about the steering box? I daily drove a stock '57 Chevy 3100 shortbed for nearly five years and after the steering box was adjusted, new kingpins, new drag link and a conversion to tie rod ends the thing was TIGHT! Ain't no rocket science to these trucks! I also flipped the eyes in the springs and pulled a couple leaves to drop it a few inches and added a swaybar when I moved and my commute required me to storm the freeway for a half hour each way every day. I wish I kept it, I sold it to buy my ***** ex-wife a SUV...
Well **** Scotty, don't hold back...lol. I just wasn't sure kingpin play would translate to the wheel that much, guess I was wrong. I HATE the idea of pulling that axle right now...a whole friggin weekend shot. I also flipped the eyes in the springs and pulled a couple leaves to drop it a few inches and added a swaybar when I moved and my commute required me to storm the freeway for a half hour each way every day. I always wondered why you sold it...
I'm a firm believer of the 'KISS' principle, especially on an old car daily driver!! I got a whole second axle, spindles, hubs and all, cleaned and rebuilt it ahead of time, then swapped it under my vehicle to keep the down time at a minimum. Didn't even unhook my brake lines, I took off the braking plates and wired them to the frame while I swapped the new axle in and then bolted them back on! It was my daily driver so it had to be quick.
Well, that would be an excellent idea... However, my axle is an OE axle that was dropped 3" way back when, and I only have the one. I'll be down for at least a couple days.
You also have to look out for bushing failure in the lower end of the case. When that bushing goes bad there is no amount of adjustment you can make to take the play out.
The Jalopy Journal
