Need some help on a "Banger" Please

That does look clean! It does have the copper bellows so you should be okay. Put 6 volts to the copper tab (picture forground) and the chassis of the pump and it should start running.

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Carburetor-Parts.com aka Mike's Carburetors has all kinds of info on the various versions of the Holley 94's. They also have rebuild kit's for many of the variations.

Great customer service, and a great Youtube Channel including a full rebuild video on the 94

I have no affiliation, other than having just purchased a rebuild kit through them for my own Holley 94.

That chassis looks like a great score...enjoy.

 

Pull distruitor and put a quart of oil down the hole. This fills the oil galley so you have gravity flow to the mains, also fills the dippers in the pan so the rods will dip oil instantly. NOW START

 

Stopped dead in my tracks... every thing was going good till I tried to pull the head off. I have tried every trick in the book , but the dam thing wont break loose. Have all the head studs soaked with wd hoping they will do the job... try again tomorrow after work. Any body have an idea, or trick to get a model a head off without breaking something???

 

never took the head off one yet but in my model a parts books they sell a head puller so its probally a frequent problem with them getting stuck on.

 

Go over to the Ford Barn , Model A forum, and search"stuck head" there. Very common problem and you will find many different methods to conquer your problem.

Pete

 

50/50 mix of acetone and ATF might help. Are the nuts/head bolts not coming loose or will the head just not let go of the deck after the nuts are removed?

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The nuts are off... it just won't break loose. I think the studs them self are rusted on. They look fine, but I don't know what they look like in the head. I'm just guessing that's what is holding it.

 

There are a bunch of threads on how to get the head off. You can, make a puller, put rope in the cylinders, try starting it, work it with scrapers and chisels, pump full of grease. What i do though is weld the nuts to the studs and then quench with some parafin wax, then once the cool i try to back them out with an impact gun. A breaker bar can work but a t bar drive would be better. It helps to have some extra nuts cause you may break some of your welds.

 

Check or search here for model a banger head puller. You can make one. Patience is key. If you dont find it i can look later on a real computer.

Side cover (valves cover) and pan should be removed. At the very least check the main babbit.

Also see the monthly banger thread here. Those guys can help you more then anything i can advise.

Very nice setup, do it justice.

 

Here you go.

http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=216035&highlight=head+puller+banger

Take your time.

 

Took me a week of waiting, lubricating and lifting. Lube and tap tap tap the head with a brass mallet while lifting.
Ended up that the studs were mis-aligned and held the head.
"Tuned" the studs with the mallet to straighten them and the new head slid right on.

 

Thanks buddy... this might be my next try. My dad stopped over and while talking about it he asked " why don't we just see if it starts?" Inside the head looks clean and nice, the oil is just about clear too. I don't know when the car last ran, it might have not been that long ago. I also read on a trick of turning the head nuts out about an eighth inch and starting it up and the head should pop loose. I might just hook up a bat and throw a little gas in to see if it will fire... just for 10 secs than shut it off.

 

I'm so close to doing just that. Maybe tomorrow night...