GASSER MUST HAVES and cant haves?

that would really help you nhra boys ---most of the big boys had an nhra car and a real car for AHRA and match racing---the rest of us ran at tracks that only loosely followed "all" the rules...

 

I was going to build a period "gasser" or "altered" from a '62 Corvair, but now I feel I should just sell it to a Hollywood production company for a new TV show, "Passing Gas" or "No Class" or "Sucks Ass". Any offers?

 

Hi 62

I ran the gasser at San Fernando most of the time, if it looks good run it

A great ' Run What You Broung Strip ' and we all had a ton of fun racing there

' There ain't no rule books in Rac'n '

G Don

 

Hey Don., how about some details on that blue Chevy?

 

Here's 1956, 1964, 1966, 1971. All in one thread.

If you don't mind, you might tack you scan on this thread while you're at it.

http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=334715

 

Sure would!

 

correct stance and theme would be great....period pieces if in good condition and safe....nothing like a set of wheels and tires that have been "stored" for 5 generations in a basement you paid $1500 for so you had the look...so will the guy in the lane next to you when they blow at speed

 

Do you recall what year that rule was? I remember the rule about not raising a body to gain weight transfer, but nothing about a "front down rake"?
A lot of guys got around the "not raising a body for weight transfer" by simply stating they raised their body for tire clearance, suspension modification, or some other reason. As long as they didn't do it "for weight transfer" it usually got past the techs.

 

That pic is of the truck under power,coming out of the hole.Its gonna look totally exaggerated in that state,compared to at rest,where the engine isn't yanking the front end into the air.
That said,I believe the Silver Dollar does sit with a front high rake,so I see the point you're making,that pic just makes it a little more exaggerated....


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The Silver Dollar Willys PU didn't sit any different under power than it did static. Pretty solid suspension.

 

The weight transfer rule is in the 1964 rules.

I'm guessing the level deal came around 1969, when you could scratch build a frame. It's in the 71 rulebook for sure.

 

You missed roll bar,seat belts,scattershield,. driveshaft loop.

 

Well in your second picture,it looks to have a slight nose high rake,as you stated,which I agreed with,but in the original pic you posted,the bottoms of the front fenders are level with the tops of the rear tires and about a full foot higher...
I'm not trying to start a pissing match,just saying that any car will raise the front end considerably under acceleration.
That being said,you win,I win,and everybody gets a gold star.lol!

I think that was one of the keys to getting them to throw the weight back so hard:A combination of big,heavy engine located over weak,soggy springs that would extend like crazy with very little resistance.This allowed the weight of the engine to settle the front end way down at rest,then hoist it way up into the air under power to throw weight rearward to help the hook.....

Scott

 

Here. Is this better

MELTDOWN DRAGS
JULY 19&20 2014

 

That looks just plain scary to drive....!lol!
I wasn't referring to all cars in general,just the Silver Dollar Willys that 1971 and I were debating about.That one you just posted is frighteningly awesome...lol


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I think that most sit level at the rocker, but appear nose high because of the short front tires.

MELTDOWN DRAGS
JULY 19&20 2014

 

Those dinky little tires in those big,wide open wheel wells do go a long way toward creating the illusion that the thing is getting ready to do a backflip,don't they...?lol!

Scott


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Another mistake are those zoomie headers. I'm not sure what year they changed the rule, but they used to all have to have collectors. I think guys like Ohio George got by this rule by having the pipes almost flush with the collector opening, but he stll had them.

MELTDOWN DRAGS
JULY 19&20 2014

 

Things got pretty creative withtheheaders,didn't they?I think George might have been allowed a bit more leeway than the average dude running a mom n pop car at the time,just because he was such a big name,maybe?Dont wanna piss off the guy who's putting asses in the seats,right...?
Sme of those big megaphone collectors were pretty radical too....stuff like that is a big part of the look of these cars,and what makes them so special.KS Pittman's Willys has some pretty gnarly looking ones.The S&S cars could always be counted on to be some of the best looking,most innovative,and best performing cars around,from what I have read.What a bunch of Badasses!


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Man these threads sure get carried away with what is right, wrong as per their direction of living which could be north,south, east or west.
I think the original poster wants to do what I do with mine, drive and race. Mine is not an over restored 60's gasser and never was meant to be. I did try to zero in on the late 60's early 70's look though.
I drove it to a cruise night last night and didn't have one person telling me how this wasn't correct or that wasn't correct. I did have a lot of guys that were around Niagara Drag Strip back then and it brought back a lot of memories for them. To see their eyes light up telling old stories is what it is about, connecting them back to a better time.
I also had a lot of young guys taking pictures and getting excited about it, hopefully planting a seed for the future. A car that you can not use is a waste in my book, even if it has to use a few modern items that are not period correct to get it there.

 

I agree Swade...my Dad has wanted a '41 Willys coupe since he saw the SWC Swindler car run when he was a kid....he finally built one,fabbed his own frame from a pattern he took off a rusted original,scrounged junkyard and swap meet/classified ads like we did in the old days,fabbed his own tube axle,and in general,built it like an old school hot rod would have been built back in the day.
BUT.....he made a few select choices on equipment that would have definitely have the self appointed "HAMB Cops" busting his balls all day long for it....The redeeming factors are:He drives the thing EVERYWHERE,and has a ton of fun with the car he has always dreamed of owning,and the car is a major attraction at every show or cruise night he has participated in.At the last show he entered,my Son actually overheard a guy telling his kids that the only reason they came to the show was to get a glimpse of my Dad's Willys.That made my Dad pretty proud.

Being accurate to something you are trying to replicate is important,if you want to accurately replicate it.If you want to emulate a certain era or aesthetic,then do your best to not mix up parts/genres and make it a dogs breakfast.
Beyond that,use your best judgement,and a little good taste,and enjoy what you build!

Scott


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Guys

Here is a little in site on the weight transfer stuff, in the early 60' when some of the guys started to use the B & M hydro's Bob & Don Spar the owners started to think about the transfer thing

They cut the rear springs in half for a Quarter Eliptic style spring that was very soft, using long traction bars that went forward to the bell housing

Then wen you took off the rear would squat down and the long bars would raise up the front and that is what caused the nose hi look

If you look at Maz's & SWC willys they have a large rear fender cut out for the rear to lower down and not hit the tires

After some time playing with the soft set up they forgot about it, most likely did not feel to good at hi speed as those guys were going in the 140's

They did set level at rest just rocked back when you hit the loud petal

Another Blast from the Past,

G Don

 

DND, I recently was watching this 39 chev that was built back in the 60's do it's transfer thing while moving around the pits. It is a leaf spring/ladder bar type rear with leafs and I beam axle up front.
When he dropped it in gear at idle it would raise the front up about 3 inches, back to park and it would lower the 3 inches back down. Pretty cool to see it all working at low rpm moving in and out of pit spot.

 

Good post the info in here is all good for building up a gasser. I am looking forward to getting mine back up on its wheels and running.

 

Here is a pic of my Stude I am building,

 

Thanks DND!Its so important to get information from the guys who were there,who built and set up and tunes the cars....you guys did all the trial and error work that the rest of us are now reaping the benefits from.
There have been some killer posts on this thread,and I have been able to take away some pretty useful information from it.
DNDo you have some experience with the quarter elliptic leaf rear suspension?I have been interested in this setup for its small size,lighter weight,and ease of packaging in a small car.Do you think this setup would work well with lightly stiffer leaves so that the rear didn't squat quite so severely,yet still allowed the car to hook fairly hard..?
Thanks so much for all your input,and please keep on posting!Youre a gold mine of information on how things were.

Scott


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Build a car that you like. Look at what appeals to you on others cars and dont be too influenced by the criticism of others. Building a hotrod can be expensive so your question on must haves and cant have is valid but on this forum naturally created a shit storm of opinions. So that said I will take part and suggest it has the following.

The stance of a gasser.

Fender well headers.

Torque thrust or Halibrand style wheels.

An american made V8 motor 70s or earlier.

Spartan interior and NO air conditioning or power windows.

My car will see track use so I had to make some decisions with safety and performance in mind, like working brakes, a 10 point cages and
four link.

Dave

 

Hi Scott

Thanks for the kind words, I did not have quarter eliptic's I had full leafs at first then I put in small coils off a forigen car

I guess you would have to make something up and give it a try and use the ' That look's about Right ' stuff and see how it works, as that's how you learn this stuff

One day when I was building the 37' I wanted an alum firewall so when I had the cutting torch going I cut out the whole steel firewall and floor board , I was standing there looking at this very big hole I had just made looking from the cowl to the rear bumper seeing nothing but the shop floor

Oh man did it screw up as now I have no reference for where the seats will go etc, thinking what a mistake I made

But once I got to thinking about it and a sketch pad just started to make drawing's & notes it all worked out just fine

G Don

 

Hi Richard D

On post # 106 I spelled it out pretty good on how I built the 37', if you see something I over looked please ask

Glad to help, Don

 

Any tips you guys have as far as gas altereds? I have a '62 Corvair with a 3x2 tube chassis, solid axles front and rear, will be set up with a front engine V-8. I'd like it to be close as possible to period(early-mid 60s)