Why is oil spurting out of a freshly rebuilt 390 FE engine thats on a stand?

We just got back a 390 FE rebuilt motor after 9 months waiting and there was no oil in the oil pan from shipping.

we got the engine on the stand and started installing the intake and other stuff and filled the engine with oil just to check for any leaks especially the rear mains.

now the engine came with red plastic grommet plugs over the valve cover breather holes, distributor location and water pump

now it seems once i put the oil in the engine there is pressure being built up that those red caps on the valve covers pop right off and there is oil residue around the breather grommets.

can anyone explain why this happens? we rotated the engine by hand a few times and it still does it.

can it be because the compression is higher or something of this nature? is this normal?

 

Your text doesn't match your title. Title says oil is "spurting out." Text says caps are popping off from air pressure and that there is only oil residue. Which is it?

You said "once I put oil in the engine." Are you saying just the act of pouring oil in makes the caps pop off? That makes no sense since the air displaced by the incoming oil should come out the same hole the oil is going in.

Or are you saying that once you crank it over, the oil starts to come out?

The compression ratio has no impact on oil leaks unless your car has no piston rings, in which case you have much bigger problems.

Did you try asking the shop that had it for 9 months?

 

if motor hasn't been broke in the rings aren't totally sealed and will alllow some of the air in the cylinder to bypass when turned slow , and you have to have a breather of some sort on the engine as the pistons push a lot of air around in the crankcase and needs to balance out . pull the caps and install some vented breather caps .

 

If all exterior holes are plugged when you're turning the motor, it's probably normal. As you rotate the motor, the amount of internal air changes (due to the pistons moving up and down) plus whatever leakage you get past the rings. All motors must have crankcase breathers....

 

By chance you're not talking about the sparkplug block off plugs? They'll certainly pop off when you crank.

 

Run it and report back.

Jack E/NJ

 

are you "under the dome"?

 

Yes, Definetly get that engine venting properly first. Let's see...you have a 390 FE you should be able to run a breather on one valve cover. On the other valve cover run a PCV valve and plumb that into the carburator.

 

I thought this was strange. When i poured the oil in slowly it was spitting out like crazy from both breather holes in the valve covers.

Oil pan has 7 qt oil now and if i try to put those red plastic caps pver the breather holes they just pop right off im seconds with the pressure.

So the oil did spit when i filled it now it seems to slowly be creeping up around the breather grommet

Should i try to prime the engine by spinning the oil pump with my drill?

We did the exact same thing months back on a crate 350 going in my friends 36 ford and it did not spit oil.

Just got me nervous.

 

We planned on running two baffled breathers, does it really matter to run two breathers versus one breather and pcv?

The engine isnt even inthe car yet its going in a 69 Torino soon. We just wanted to make sure it was ok as i have had bad luck with engine rebuilders and FE

 

Does your engine vent through the back of the intake?

 

I know there is a Ford FE Forum and these guys know FE's like it's no ones business!

http://www.network54.com/Forum/74182/

 

You're not going to build much crankcase pressure as a result of just rotating the engine. As you already noted, for every piston moving down the bore trying to pressurize the crankcase, there's another piston moving UP the bore at the same rate to offset the effect.

 

There are several reasons why engines blow oil like this.

I would definetly follow the proper first time start up procedure with the drill and allow the engine to get oil throughout first. Also, look at the manual and make sure your crankcase is venting proplery as recommended by Ford.

If it's still blowing oil after you have it vented properly...then something's shakin.

 

Whaaaaaaat?

 

7 qt. capacity? or is that how much you put in?.Pics would help ,because I have never seen what you are experiencing. I thought that possibly the pressure spring plug was left out, but that isn't what you describe.. Jack

 

Sounds like the oil isn't draining down into the pan.....is it showing on the dipstick?


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This is the closest sense I can make of this thread! The engine is on the stand, oil wouldn't go in, it was spitting out... defying gravity and creeping up...

I just don't honestly know where to begin.

Also, how can one check the mains for leakage on the engine stand without the engine running?

I'm still scratching my head and I've read the original posters comments at least 3 times now.

 

I'm a pretty good mechanic and motor builder. I read all of this and yours (55thunderboy) several times. My advice is for you to find some help. It's clear your new at this and you could be very close to costing yourself a lot of $$$$ and then trying to pin a motor builder with a bad name because you didn't understand what your doing.
The Wizzard

 

Putting oil in the engine while its on the stand is strange. Rotating the engine is also strange considering its set up to drop the dist in on cylinder #1.

When you rotate and engine you do hear compression through the bottom end, the engine isn't designed to turn over that slow... Its all normal in my opinion from what I am reading.

 

I agree. Find a buddy, or a local motor shop. Someone you can trust. Not to be a douche, but you may be into more than you're ready for. Try taking a small engines class, or auto shop (if they still offer such a thing).

I've rebuilt several FE motors, and have never experienced anything like what you are talking about.

7-quarts, you must have an aftermarket pan. Which is fine, just make sure you have the right oil pickup tube for the pan you are running.

You had to ship away an FE motor for a rebuild? Where do you live? Most decent sized cities would have several competent motor builders. Even driving an hour or two is preferable to shipping it to God knows who (unless your sending it to Jack Roush or Ed Pink)

Best of luck...

 

A dumb sounding question; Was there oil in the engine, when you got it back ? If there was, and you added 5 or 6 qts, it's way over filled...

It would be worth it, to drain the oil, and refill with the correct amount.......

4TTRUK

 

Has no understanding of engines at all and will never be able to maintain it unless he get's himself educated on automobiles . With out help i believe he will ruin it. Or at least he lacks the knowledge to explain the problem so we can understand it .

 

Who assembled the engine, installed the rings etc?

 

I wanna know how he's rotating the engine fast enough to blow out the plugged valve cover holes? Sump thin don't smell right. Did we forget to plug the oil pressure sender hole? I've done that before when priming an engine and was amazed how far the oil flew.

 

This ^^^^^ is true....

You paid an engine builder big money. If you take it to a local shop, its gonna void any warranty, if you haven't already done it.....

 

You said you put the intake on and the engine came with the plugs in the valve covers ?
FE intake is like olmost half of the cylinder heads why would it have valve covers on it if it had no intake on it.

 

I was wondering same thing.

 

I picked up on this right away. Nothing makes scence the way he wrote his first post. This poor guy is headed for a Large Train Wreck unless we just don't understand what he's trying to say.
The Wizzard

 

I hope he took the plastic bag off.