Hot Rods 31 Model A Victoria Build w/Pics - Miss Vicky

Yes as stated in other thread, I took 1/4" off each blade on mine. Had it magnifluxed then took it to a lawnmower serving place to have it balanced.

 

That's a good thought. I'll look into it.

Here's another idea – welding the fan blades onto the GM pulley. I don't think this version would be very strong though.

 

Dave, Here you go....

 

Is that fan for sale Jack? It looks fairly flat.

 

Stock 55 chevy that was cut down for Bullwlinkle, the 3/window that I'm finishing up...

 

Ahhh, OK, that's basically the same fan I have. If I cut it down a little and balance it (like a lawn mower blade) I'll be able to remove a bit of the forward pitch at the ends of the blades and possibly resolve my clearance problem.

My concern is that this modification might reduce the fan's cooling efficiency. Anyone want to weigh in on this?

While studying the problem tonight, I came up with another idea that could make things all better.
I took a look at how the radiator mounts into the grille shell. If I want to, I can cut out some of the inside of the shell (behind the insert) and move the radiator a full inch forward, further into the shell. I'm going to try cutting a half inch of the material out first and see where I'm at. Between that mod and trimming the fan, I should have this licked, and my shell will be exactly where it was with the 283.

I'm still studying my alternator bracket challenge. I could mount it on either side because there's plenty of room. I was hoping right side would work out because the left side is already fairly crowded with the steering box. But it looks like mounting possibilities are better on the driver's side. Plus all my wiring for the alternator is already routed in that direction. Hmmmmmmm. I will still need to make the bracket. Any ideas?

 

So I went out again to study the pile of parts I need to find a place for. I've decided to put the alternator on the drivers side and I'll put the remote oil filter on the lower passenger side by the oil pan.

 

Where is the engine oil filter location? And your mounting the remote to what?

 

The original oil filter location was on the back, right, angled up and away from the engine. The starter is taking up some of that space now.

I will make a bracket off the motor to hang the filter in the front right so the filter faces down or out toward the frame rail – where the stock fuel pump is on a small block. The oil lines will run from the back of the motor along the edge of the oil pan.

 

Looks like you can use the engine mounts to mount the alternator also!
The view from the top looks great!

 

I am wondering what drop you used on the front end. I am using the stock a model frame. And thinking about doin the 6 inch drop axel? Do you think I will have any issues with oil pan clearance?

 

I've employed pretty typical methods – 32 frame, stock wheel base (the stock kick gives some drop) but with a model A front cross member (1+ inches of drop) reversed spring eyes (another 1+ inches of drop), custom spring pack with c-notches in the front rails, and a 4 inch drop axle. Also 25.75 inch tall front tires. I don't think anyone makes a 6 inch drop axle.

If you dropped the front end of a stock Model A 6 inches, you wouldn't be close to having oil pan clearance issues. You'll run into steering issues first.

 

Agreed. A 5" axle is really pushing the limits unless you plan on running tall wheels and high sidewall.... Artillery wheels and Excelsior tires maybe?



'27 T Roadster build: http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=734383

 

Ok thanks guys

 

Here's what I'm thinking. A pretty simple bracket that the alt pivots on. The belt adjustment will be from the point with the arrow to a boss on the other side of the alternator – either a bolt or a turn buckle.

 

Nice sketch Dave. Is that freehand? Can you make a CAD file?

 

Yes, it's freehand in PhotoShop. I can save an Illustrator file as a DXF, but the way I'm creating it, it wouldn't be accurate.

 

Will try to clarify.. The standard aftermarket axle is 4 inches , but when turned upside down on a flat surface it will measure 5 inches.. Model axle has 1 inch drop already, so you really have a 4 inch over stock...I can DROP a stock model A axle to a true 5 inch over stock , with stock 1 inch stock drop and 5 drop it will be six...You then need to workout a safe scrub line out for your front end,,

 

Looks like your still treading water, Dave! Hoping you survive the cuts!

 

Went with the 6 inch drop. Started re-assembling the frame and new suspension today. Thanks for the technical advise

 

Good article here on selecting the right alternator bolt.

scroll down a bit for the alternator bolt section and nope I have no connection to this site.

http://www.webrodder.com/article.php?AID=602&SID=8

 

Thank you, that is a good article.

 

Got the first part of my alternator bracket made today – the pivot part. Now I've got to make lower belt adjustment piece.

 

Even matches the drawing! Looking good Dave

 

Clean!

My '27 T Roadster build: http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t= 734383

 

Looks good, Dave! I was thinking of doing this very thing with mine, but it landed right where my shocks are so I couldn't.

What will you do for an adjuster?

 

Here's what I'm thinking:

 

Yeah, I would let it pivot like you have shown in that sketch. That should work.

I made a threaded adjuster for mine as well, to make sure it wouldn't ever loosen up.

 

Wow I haven't check in on this build in a while really nice work Dave. The steering column is brilliant.

 

Ha Ha, yeah, I lobbied to get it moved to the traditional customs forum so I could get more exposure, but the mods weren't having it. (kidding)

Thanks man.