[/IMG] I suppose to be more traditional I should have used Strombergs but I always liked the look of the Webers.
The motor is a 341 bored to 345. The intakes are 4 separate aluminium manifolds. I am still in the prototype phase. They are unmachined. One critical issue for me has been hood clearance. Although generally having 8 velocity stacks pocking out the hood looks way cool. This doesn't work for me. Still sorting out a few problems but needed to mock it up to see where we are with height. Also, the intake pre-heat port between the two manifold is open and will need to be blocked off somehow. Also I plan on adding an AN-#10 male bung in each one for the water passage. Any advice as to running coolant would be appreciated.
Very interesting project !! Yes, building 'something' for your thermostat will be the next issue. Waaay back in the old days we installed an LA chain case cover on a 330 and welded up a 'box' on the top for a t-stat as that engine had a log manifold, similar problem to what you have. Given the shape of the exhaust crossover port you may need to machine a small step inside the head and then make a matching plug that will fit very tightly inside the step. I'd add some small retaining screws. .
Looks good, Have you thought of making each side one piece. That way you would cover the pre heat ports. Good luck
Ratman; Yes making the manifolds one piece is probably the way to go. However if I did that I would need to make a core box to cast the runners. That actually would work out well at a lot of levels. It would bring the cost down. I could make two different cores one for the low deck, one for the high deck which have larger runners. I could also make two different baseplates one for Dodge Red Ram and the other for Desoto. This intake is a prototype for use on my motor. As a one-off it is easier to mill the current base off then weld the castings to a base plate and be done with it. I will post it if I have any progress. I have a 291 Desoto laying around. It would probably be easier to sell if it had a manifold.
Easiest would be to just sandwich a plate between the heads and your manifolds. It could transition the different port sizes, too.
There is always this option http://www.jegs.com/p/Weiand/Weiand-Thermostat-Housings-Adapters/1594913/10002/-1 I've used one before.
So have I...Great solution for a Hemi with aftermarket intake. (my 331" Reath 671 blown Chrysler had me stumped for 2 days 'til I found one of these. That was prior to the Weiand piece...mine came from a Marine outlet...
Om, I hate to rain on your parade, but those are DCOE Webers which are sidedraft, not downdraft. Unless someone has done some sort of conversion I've never heard of on them they ain't going to work standing on end, no way no how.
NMcarnut, He knows they are side draft DCOE and told me he gutted them. With side and down draft carbs not being my specialty, I'm not sure what that involved with that process. Heck I just learned it was possible.
Yes these are side draft DCOE not the more expensive IDA updraft. They have the venturis removed. I am machining a bung for a Bosch fuel injector. I was hesitant to bring it up because most on this site are 100% traditional hot rod and aren't big fans of electronic fuel injection. So I will not mention the Denso coil-on-plug that fit nicely in the spark plug tubes and will be hidden under the wire covers.
Wanted to make sure. If you have heard of a way to convert, other than adding a fuel injector, I'd sure like to know more. Using the carbs for show and adding injection is a neat idea (even the tradionalists were creative), but running the DCOEs on end just looks sorta goofy, sorry. Make some 90 degree adapters and put your coolant fittings in them, it will also solve your hood clearance issue with stacks.
Would be mildly interesting to keep a tally of how many at a trad rod show would say, "How'd he make the sidedrafts work standing up?" Probably not too many, but a general show where sports car and Shelby guys are there, would be a constant parade. As an aside, the Webers looks better on an engine with alternate intake ports than on an intake scrunched together in a Y on the SBC/SBF with paired intake ports. Another FWIW, Offenhauser was making that thermostat housing fifty years ago. jack vines
Because i wanted to keep exhaust from #2&3 and 6&7 from mixing in the heat riser port on a Chrysler. I used tape to block off the riser port as it entered the exhaust valve bowl. Then I used plaster of Paris to fill the valve bowl. I then melted some old aluminum and poured it in the riser from the manifold face. When it cooled I filed it flat with the manifold face and removed the plaster. It never leaked exhaust. Do be quick about removing the plaster and oil it real well to prevent rust. I did quite a few heads this way and it always worked.
Rich and I are old enough to agree on most engine building techniques. I've also filled V8 exhaust crossover ports forever. However, on the most recent Packard V8 performance build, I just blocked them at the intake head surface and couldn't really notice any difference in street performance. Anyone ever seen any dyno or flowbench tests which prove filling the crossover and porting the exhaust to look like it was never there is worth doing or not? jack vines
Thanks for the idea about the aluminium. I was thinking of using lead but aluminium is safer. I know that some on this post can tell a side draft from an updraft Weber however so few people run them anymore I was doubtful anyone would even notice
Jack: The Chryslers that I did were for members of the Juggers Racing Team. I also did a blown BBC for a member. They were of the opinion that leaving the riser open on a blown motor leads to lifting said blower. And the Plymouth with the Y block head had the injectors cut apart by the previous owner. So I had nothing to keep exhaust from exiting there except the aluminum.
That is beautiful. Don't think I've ever seen that setup on any old Hemi. Did you cast the intakes yourself?
I made the wood form for this. Then made a silicon rubber mold. I then popped out 4 wax copies and covered them with castable resist. The project then went dormant when I moved to New Zealand. My intent was to build a furnace and ramp up to cast them myself. I have about a dozen small pieces I needed to have cast in bronze for window hinges so I thought I would have to do them all by lost wax. I found a local foundry that does sand casting of aluminium and bronze and they said they could make most of the bronze pieces inexpensively with sand casting. The manifolds were not so cheap $100 each but they could do it without me making a core box. So after machine costs I probably be in the $1000 range. I guess this is acceptable for a one off prototype. Keeping in mind that I wasn't sure it would fit. So I had the one made first. (it's also cheaper than building a furnace, buying a pyrometer etc.) I doubt that anyone would be enough interest to make more but I imagine if I made a core etc. I could get the cost below $500
Has anyone ever heard of using zinc ? A friend of mine recently had a big olds built and the guy told him that's what he used...
I guess it's all academic now. I made a 2.0 cm thick aluminium plate that runs across the entire head. Milled the mounting flanges off the manifolds and will weld two manifolds to each plate. So the heater cross-over is closed off. The next issue is the coolant passages. I had intended to tap each for an AN-#10 bung. I don't yet have the Hot Heads timing cover and Chevy water pump so I am not quite sure of the water flow. Even Ron Ceridono's book isn't clear on this. Anyone able to help me with this?
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