White, pale yellow. If its not very straight, just shoot single stage on it, why not block it again to get it closer. http://item.mobileweb.ebay.com/viewitem?sbk=1&nav=SEARCH&itemId=380726448967. This guy carries and mixes ppg omni, basic fleet type automotive paint, see if he'll mix you gm olympic white, he's sold it in the past, olympic white looks better on older cars than the bright whites. Tcpglobal.com is another source they have their own restoration paint line.
White, pale yellow. If its not very straight, just shoot single stage on it, why not block it again to get it closer. http://item.mobileweb.ebay.com/viewitem?sbk=1&nav=SEARCH&itemId=380726448967. This guy carries and mixes ppg omni, basic fleet type automotive paint, see if he'll mix you gm olympic white, he's sold it in the past, olympic white looks better on older cars than the bright whites. Tcpglobal.com is another source they have their own restoration paint line. I agree on the white. Light colors hide a lot. I would suggest PPG's Deltron line above omni as omni and omni plus both will not last over 8-10 yrs if moderately garaged. Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
BTW,,regardless of what color you paint the car if it shines the poor body work or lack of body work is gonna show up like a sore thumb. HRP
You just have not seen it done right. My cousin does an unbelievable or should I say believable patina paint job.
Neutral colors or earthtones - beiges, tans , paints that don't show dirt. Go to your local car dealer and check the colors on the lot.
My pops always used to say that the fastest cars were yellow. Meaning they spent all the money on the drivetrain, saved money on body and paint.
Or just use the cheapest paint you can find and park it in the elements and let the paint go all to hell. Won't take long if you neglect it. Has nothing to do with this thread but I have really got a thing for old paint. Not rust thrugh but say an old paint job that has been cared for. The paint will still be crazed and have character. There is a difference between patina and decay, patina only comes with age and care decay comes from neglect. Oh to get with the program on the original intent of this thread, when i was in high school we painted a '40 Ford tudor. The body was left pretty much as it came, no majot dents etc. But is showed some use as all old cars do. We paintd it white with black red tipped flames. Looked pretty good as long as you didn't get right up on it and give it the real once over. No one really got that close to it any way it was a driver and not a shower.
white means your gaps will stand out, red epoxy primer seems to cover the nastiest and looks traditional. not sure on how it holds up you could use a satin clear over the top
Pdunn There used to be a '56 Chevy ( post car) that ran around FG that was painted red led. The guy was an older guy when i was in high school. he had it pin stripped and finally my JR year he cleared over the primer. he said that he was used to the color and really liked it so he just cleared over it. So it went from red lead to shiney brown. Not any chance it is still running around there is it?
I chose a color called light arctic grey for that very reason. I'm not a bodyman so I wanted a color that " hides " the little imperfections, plus I really like the color. It's a 99 Dodge full size van color.
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