Rust removal.......the miracle of molasses!

Citric Acid,this is the latest product being used downunder,it's enviro friendly,not messy and it's affordable,it comes in crystals and you dilute the stuff just like
molasses.This stuffs great.There's a thread on the Oz Rodders Forum if you need more info.It's amazing how good it really is! Good luck,Gaz!

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Deer urine will do this too, but it's really hard to get that many deer to pee in the holding tank.

 

Thought of you guys

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14 cents per lb at my grainery. 7.00 per 5 gallons. Got some coming.

 

Austihunt, that is exactly what I used. worked great!

 

Thanks shooter, I'll go down to the feed store tomorrow and try it out.

 

ok so I got my parts down to bare metal with molasses now what is the next step seen some guys do all kind of things so thought I would ask what is the best way

 

wash the parts down, prep, and prime them.

 

Or if you're going to work on the parts or for another reason are not ready to prime, after rinsing with soap & water you can spray it down with a 1to4 mix of water & prep & etch. The same product that another posted a pic of. I did that with my 49' 3 years ago & still no rust!

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Do you guys wash off the prep and etch right before priming?

 

I have used molasses for years but for something different.

A little molasses on top of peanut butter in a rat trap draws rats right to it every time.

Now I can try it on rust to!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Jimbo

 

Yeah and I would also scuff the metal with steel wool to make sure to get the best adherence!

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ok so 1 prep n etch to 4 water I think my spray bottle has that on it sounds good thanks

 

You will see the metal turn a flat matte grey, once it does, you can wipe off the excess. Remember to wear at least dish was gloves & have plenty of ventilation. It is a mild acid & will cause coughing if you breath the vapors & will also irratate the skin on the hands.

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On 10-3 oldcarguygazok talked about a new product they are starting to use in OZ and suggested looking on ozrodders to find out about it. I did and I will now be using it instead of Molasses. It is Citric Acid. It's used in the wine and food processing industries. Its cleaner and it doesn't smell. Call it neighbor friendly.
Norm

 

ok what about that citric acid stuff......where do you get bulk and how's it used???

 

wonder if I can get enough fur my 2003 ford super duty 350 more rust on it than my 36 or my 57

 

just tell them you're going to do something in the house real quick and you'll be right back. they'll go.

 

So a couple years ago I was getting into the electrolysis thing, using washing soda as my main brine.... Worked well... Anyhow one of the older guys that I hang out with and learn from (though they prefer the term "wiser" ) informed me that some brines or metals used as electrodes (such as stainless steel] can create carcinogens like chromium hexavalent that can be in your mix, or the air. I switched to molasses, and it works great and it's easy... Also to the other young bucks out there, always keep a "wiser" guy around... It cuts down on your tuition prices at the school of hard knocks.

 

After using reverse electrolysis, mollasses, sand blasting, sanders and grinders and all the rest I have found each one leaves a little sumtin sumtin I wasn't all that stoked about.
So I've added another set of steps to my process.
After 'it's ready' I apply a coat of Ospho (a phosphoric acid based prep) and let it do it's thing. Then I reapply a second coat and while it's still wet (acid is activated while wet from application) I wash it off with hot water and an old red 3m scratch pad to neutralize the acid.
I let that dry and then I use some steel wool to remove residue and discoloration that is left behind.
I was amazed how the front axle and springs of my truck came out. I wanted to chrome them... But they got 3 coats of SPI epoxy instead.

 

I've been thinking about Molasses and the possibility of using it to loosen stuck head studs on a flathead. Could you run the Molasses mixture in the coolant system to loosen them? I'm just thinking out loud, as I currently don't have a flathead that has any broken studs. Anyone?

 

It could be used to remove rust from the water passages, but the results differ with cast iron and there might be some serious experimentation to be done before you commit.

it would not help with the head studs much if they can't be broken free. A mix of acetone and atf works like a charm for penetrating oil.

As for head bolts that extend to the water passage, and don't want to come out after being broken free... I don't know. Maybe others have used the brew inside cast iron...

 

has anyone made model t flavored rum?

 

That's freaking hilarious! Then I think, why not?

 

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I used it on some 250yr old musket bolts that were new and left to rust & decay. I let them set for a month and then washed off the molasses with a scrubby. Nice tip guys not every day you can get a NOS part.

Now I'm going to experiment with some other items including rusty car parts.

 

Have been using our molasses for the last year or so , excellent success , rust bolts simply undo, panels bright. Though today I noticed it had begun to smell ( no smell till now) it had begun to ferment and grow to overflow the old chest freezer . So thought ok time to dump it so it was a simple matter so syphoning down the hill to some waste ground. What I didn't realise was how it would stain my hands , very staining!!!! Very stinky!!!!! Hand cleaner and scrubbing with thinners made no difference. Then I remembered my old grandmother used lemons to make her nails white , yes simple old lemon juice worked a treat .
I did find a 39 v8 dash in the bottom I had forgotten , rust free and undamaged for 6 months at least.

 

Thanks for the lemon juice tip. Funny, ive been presure washing my parts out of the molasses tank, right next to my lemon tree. I usually end up with the crap on my clothes, and skin. It sure stinks, and takes some scrubbing to remove.

 

No, but i have a 70/30 brew goin on at the moment. 70% 34 Chevy, and 30% 28 Hudson