COE Dough Boy's 47 Ford COE Build

I this thread!

 

thanks for the double shear explanation as well.

 

Thank You Sam and Coolhand for your suggestions on making our brake setup more safe with the double shear. That is what I love about the H.A.M.B. you can get advice and knowledge from a bunch of great guy's and gal's. This is the setup we came up with.


Looking down from the driver seat.


Also did the lower bolt to. Still need to work on the length of the bolt.

 

Chris started on the fan shroud for the radiator. We did not have a lot of room on the top part of radiator, because of the firewall. But it opens up at the bottom and gave us room for a 16" electric fan.


The sides go up first and then Chris built off that.


The top went on next then the back went on. We add vents in the top of the back for air to p*** through when hitting cruising speeds. They will have rubber flaps that will sill the shroud when there is no air flow. Next Chris added the fan's mounting flange.


Last he filled in the rest of shroud, cleaned up the welds, and polished it up. We gave it a test with the battery charger and were very pleased on how much air was being pulled through the radiator. It even held a piece of paper on the air conditioner evaporator.

 

That's damned fine work, both the brake hardware and the rad shroud.

Figured a sharp fabricator like your fellow there wouldn't have any problem.

I especially like the rubber flaps as low pressure one way valves on the shroud.

Very sharp indeed.

 

You still haven't taken care of the shear factor on the brake pedal. The pin/bolt the brake pedal pivots on is the crucial point. Run a tab off the frame work on the right side the same as you did on the left when you mounted it.

 

lol I wasn't gonna harp on them leaving the brake pedal pivot as single shear, but since someone else has already mentioned it, I might as well pile on.

In their defense, they did get the smaller fasteners into double shear, which is an order of magnitude better than what they started with. If they HAD to leave one single shear, at least they left the biggest bolt of the bunch.

In fact, I would not be surprised if that was how the factory did it.

It's poor engineering practice, but I admit that you can get away with a lot.

Hell, I ran the trailing arm mounts to the rear end housing in single shear for eight seasons on my race cars, and never broke a bolt.

But those were 3/4" grade 8 bolts on a 2,500# car too.

If that pedal pivot is less than 1/2" in diameter at its smallest point, I'd put it in double shear.

If it's 1/2" dia or over, you could probably get by with it, especially if it came from the factory that way.

It amazes me sometimes the **** that the OEM's got away with years ago, but they obviously worked.

 

Bolt Grade Minimum Tensile Strength (psi) Shear Strength (psi) Shear Capability (lbs)
2 74,000 44,400 78,000
5 120,000 72,000 127,000
8 150,000 90,000 159,000
The shaft is 3/4" cold rolled steel wich
Is grade 5 or better and I don't really
Know of anyone that can leg press 72000lbs
So I think we should be ok. But we do
Really appreciate the feedback and ideas
You guys have it's easy to miss things
Here and there and it's cool that we have
The hamb so that we all can see and help
Each other with our builds.

 

You're quite right that the pivot is sufficient, but you're wrong about the strength of standard cold rolled steel being greater than Grd 5.

Std 1010 cold rolled steel:

UTensileS = 53 ksi
UShearS = ~30 ksi
Fatigue Limit = ~22 ksi (for nearly infinite life)

Strength of your pivot in simple shear = ~13 klbs

Fatigue Limit of pivot in simple shear = ~9 klbs

Ultimate Capacity in combination shear and bending (single shear mounting) = ~9 klbs

Fatigue Capacity in single shear = ~6 klbs

Normal human leg force during panic stop = ~100 lbs

Lever arm length on brake pedal = ~12"

Lever arm length pedal pivot to transfer bar = ~1.5"

Force on pivot during panic stop = ~700 lbs in shear + ~500 lbs in bending

Your Factor of Safety on that pivot is ~6:1, which is more than sufficient.

1/2" would have given a FOS of ~4:1 which would have been good enough IMO, but the extra meat of the 3/4" should ***uage anyone's fears.

 

All good info but the way that pivot ***embly is designed, there is no strain on the bolt. It's just there to keep the pedal arm from sliding off of the internal shaft which carries all the stress and is built for it. ***uming the design is the same as in my truck, and it looks like it is.


Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!

 

Damn, get to look at some killer work and get smart at the same time, nice....the are some fart smellers on the site here thats for sure..

 

It's all the little things that make this build so damn nice! Keep up the good work, enjoy seeing the progress!

 

Some very nice craftsmanship, can't wait to see it done.

 

Chris made some adjustments on the radiator bracket to make it easier to install the fan shroud and radiator.


The units will now be able to slide in and out from the front.


This will be the top brace for the radiator support.


The finish part installed.


All together and ready to start running the lines.

 

I never doubted my brother's talent, but the visor is ridicoulusly good looking! Greetings to all of you from international waters!


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How did you integrate the new floor pan to the existing and repop inner fenders that were originally designed for wood?

Is there a vertical portion of the new floor that matches where the height of the wood had been then another lip that sits flat where the surface of the wood was sitting on the inner fender?

thanks,

 

Are you planning more flaps on the holes in the top of the radiator shroud? Without them, wouldn't the holes defeat the purpose of the shroud? Am I missing something in your design?

 

I have 3 words....HOT ROD ****

 

Is there a plan to seal the area between the radiator and front sheetmetal so all air coming in the grille must go through the radiator?

Spitbucket, notice in the second picture that the shroud doesn't have holes at the top, just the brace that is positioned above it.

 

"Spitbucket, notice in the second picture that the shroud doesn't have holes at the top, just the brace that is positioned above it."

Thanks, I knew I must have missed something. <!-- / message --><!-- sig -->

 

We haven't place the rubber covers over the holes in the shroud yet. Need to figure out what kind of rubber material will work best for the application. When we tested the shroud we covered the holes with paper and the shroud worked great.

Just realized that the holes in question in the top of the radiator are not part of the shroud but part of the top radiator bracket. Hope that make sense.

 

Yes we plan on directing all the air flow that comes through the grill to the radiator.

 

The floor pan has a lip that is turned down 90 degrees that is the same height that the wood was and sits on the the same lip that the wood did. Also took out the stock center bracing and replaced it with 1.5 x 2 tubing. Hope that helps.

 

All i have to say its amazing i love every part of it well thought out and chris your work is top notch !!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

Imported and unlocked. If y'all know of others, send me the links & I'll get 'em moved.

 

@Dough Boy

 

Thanks for unlocking and moving this gwhite!

I'm sure everyone already knows but he's been been posting the adventures here: http://doughboy1947.blogspot.com/

Hopefully he'll consider continuing it here as well so I don't have to check three or four times a week to see if he's updated!

 

These are the best examples "photos" of Steer Clear I have ever seen being used on a COE. I am having a touch time linking my steering box up to a column for my tilt cab project. I checked into the Steer Clear, but my floor is so close to the steer box & top of the frame rails, by time I add a U-joint, the steer clear is already in the cab. I wish I had your fabricating skills, but now I know what I will need to do. Thank you for this thread... Keep the info photos coming...

 

Nice work!

 

Can everyone who cares please PM Doughboy and ask him to please come back to the HAMB and post his progress here! It takes some persuasion after his thread got banned........