Projects 36-taildragger.....Made in Sweden

Has continued working on the doors.Have the driverside welded and straightened with hammer n dolly and have stiffen the hinges.Welded in some bits of 5/16" flat bar on the inside and drilled out the rivets,tapped the holes and now I bolt the hinges instead of rivets.

 

kicking****! great stuff kenneth!

 

Thanks Nate.

Still working on the doors.Think I have the driverside door skin smooth enough now.Been hammering and filing for several hours now.






Did the first kustomizing on the body today.Got the Lincoln push*****on installed in the door now when it´s split.


Made a clamp to mount from the inside to hold the*****on .Later on I will put a switch behind the*****on and a solenoid to release the latch and open the door.

 

Kenneth your doing an amazing job! and it so cool you take the time to show us 'how to'
thanks!

-Palle

 

I was staring at my Lincoln push*****ons last night trying to think of a good way to secure them. Thanks.

 

So fresh metal work going on, keep the pictures coming...

 

Thanks a lot Palle.Like to watch " how to do " threads my self and if I can be to some inspiration for others I´ll be very pleased.

You´re welcome Eric

Keep watching, they will come

 

Looking great as always. Inspiring work dude!


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Did some more work on the drivers door today.Made an angled plate and welded it in the inside of the lower corner.When the inside will go back in I will drill some holes in it for spotwelds to this angled piece.Think that will stiffen up the lower hinge a lot.




Here I have the holes were I will spot weld.


Made a new corner


Here it is with the hinge mounted and the door back in the car.



Inside installed and door is done.Now I have to do it all over again on the passenger door

 

Thanks Trev

 

very nice---keep plugging away at it

 

Wow, great work Kenneth!

 

Be sure to checkout Geir Natvigs car... I believe he is in your neck of the woods. Might give you some inspiration. Looking good!

-Ben

--
http://www.drillist.com - Hot Rod classifieds done right.

 

WOW !! You sure are doing a great job on your coupe Kenneth !! I really like those door*****ons your using.

Your metalwork is great to watch. Keep it up!

 

Thanks Brian

Thanks Sledge.

I have seen Geirs car in person and it´s an awsome car and definitly inspiring.

Thanks fleet-master.

 

Keeps working on the passenger door.Don´t know what had happend with that door. The doors frame is totaly out off shape.Up at the body line it´s to long and at the bottom it´s to short.If you look closely at this first picture you can see how some one have cut the folded flange at the body line and then added a tapered strip of metall at the bottom.At the body line the flange is 1/2 " and at the bottom it´s 7/8".That means that the frame doesn´t fit in the body either.At the bottom the gap to the body is an 1/2" more than at the body line.



Here you see how they have added a tapered strip and welded it to the door.Not pretty.


I decided to cut out the whole rear part of the door and adjust the frame against the body .When welded I will mount the door back on the body and schribe a line to the door along the hole in the body where the door will be.In that way I can get the door to align with the bodys door hole.

 

Kenneth, Beautiful work. Are you spotting with a mig and then welding with a tig? I ask because your metal fit is very snug. I am not an expert at tig ing but have done enough to find that I still get too much heat in body panels (even on my lowest settings) unless I only do very short runs. I'd be interested in what you are doing? Do you put a copper strip in behind to dissipate the heat?
Subsequently I prefer to Mig and leave a 1mm gap and join the dots cooling as I go.

 

Thanks CadMad.
I try as much as I can to spot with the tig. I tack the panels with about one to one and a half inch between the tacks. When welding I weld between the tacks one bit at a time and after every weld I hammer and dolly the weld while it´s hot.I keeps on working with the welded area untill it´s cold and the warping is gone. It can look like***** when you shut the welder off but just hammer and dolly the weld and you will see how it ´s coming back Then I jump forward about 5 inches for the next weld.It takes a longer time to weld and fitting the panels together but instead there´s a lot less work after and I have full control over the panels warping during the welding process. If you have a tig I sugesst that you try this method instead of miging.When I first tryed it I was totaly sold.This method needs that you have full access to the backside of the panel meaning that you some times have to cut out inner structueres on doors and such things.Good luck.

I have set my welder on 30-35 amps and using 0,8mm mig wire for filler material. No I do not use copper strips.

 

Impressive work Kenneth! Thanks for showing !!

 

Thanks man.

 

Still checking in Kenneth and still impressed. The drivers door and the hinges/pillars turned out great, looks like the passenger door has had a bit of a hard life and some nasty repairs and is putting up a fight. I'm sure it will all turn out ok.
Keep up the good work mate.

Paul.

 

Wow! Amazing talent! Just found this thread and read it all the way through. (subscribed) Keep up the great work & thanks for posting it all for us.

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Thanks Paul.You are right it sure is a pain in the a..

Thanks bengeltiger.



Still fighting that passenger door.Have it all welded up.


Then I made this little tool for scribing a fold line on the door.


Got the door mounted in the car and shut it closed.Then I get the tool I made and put it in between the b-post and the door and now I can follow the b-post line and transfer it to the door skin.The line scribed is the folding line.Then I add an half inch from that line and there is the cut line.


Here´s the door grinded and smothed.Looks a little better than before. Still have to install the inside and the push*****on but it´s a bit closer now.

 

Bob you´re right. You have to add at least 65% to the sales price for shipping and taxes and sometimes as much as 100%, but when you´re an addict there´s no other way. A doper must have his fix.
Kenneth.[/QUOTE]


VERY SIMILAR OVER HERE

 

Door looks******in Kenneth! Nice little guage to scribe door.

 

wow. incredible finishing work.

 

Love this thread. Am about to reskin a door on my "A" and would appreciate a couple of hints on making the folds around the perimiter. I have a "Howell" skin and it is at 90 deg. already.
Thanks in advance.
Lou39

 

VERY SIMILAR OVER HERE[/QUOTE]


It sure*****s.

Thanks Kipp. This little guage trick is something I´spoted in a mag few years ago. Works perfect.

Thanks Nate.

Thanks Lou. I´m using hammer and dolly when folding such flanges.Important is that you hit the flange flat all the time so it folds at the brake line.And work the flange a little bit about 15-20 degrees at a time forth and back.When it´s folded all the way and flat to the perimeter I concentrate the hits at the folded edge to make it sharp.Dont rush it. It is better to let it take its time bit by bit and you will see it´s getting there.Hope it make some sense if not post again and will see if I can get you some pics of the process.
Good luck.

 

Kenneth, You have done incredible work on this restoration. You've repaired every deteriorated element of this car. The determination you've exhibited astounds me. We lesser able enthusiasts would have "thrown in the towel" long ago. It appears that you are on the home stretch now. Thanks as well for all your efforts of posting your restoration process for us all to appreciate. I'm confident that your completed project will be equally astounding, ever the much so because we were able to see the process and how it began.
Best Regards and Good Luck in all your endeavors. KB aka telekenfun.

 

Thanks KB.I don´t know of the home stretch.Still have a lot of repair to do. Trunk lid looks like***** and the rear fenders aswell. Not very much rust but really bad beaten up but it feels like when the doors are done and reinstalled I can start focus on the roof chop and put repair at side for a while. I think its a way to keep the torch burning if I can see some progress and not being stucked down with repair only.