How do you remove rear brake drums on a 50 Chrysler

I have a rear brake drum that won't come off I've rented 2 different tool I have hit and beat nothing does anyone have a idea how to get this drum off thanks
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have a Snap-On puller that I don't use often.....have an old home made I bought years ago that works better on my old Stude's and Mopar's.....try adding a little heat....or it could be the old shoes swelling up from leaking fluid....I've had to cut off the shoe achors and up bolt the wheel cylinder on stuborne ones....


lwf

 

Here we go again...

There are countless threads on these Mopar tapered axle rear drums. They ****!


You need a serious commercial duty 5 jaw puller that you tighten with a hammer then slam the end with a sledge hammer. I still have my Dads from his shop back in the 50s.

There are dozens of other ideas on hamb.

 

Ive been working on it all day I wonder if I loose up the wheel cylinder bolts and there's 2 bigger nuts on the bottom and see if that might work

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I rented those 3 legged ones today but none were big enought

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Check out this link first:http://p15-d24.com/page/p15d24/tech/brakes.html

You NEED this:




to end up with this:




Make sure you leave the nut on the axle (loose) to stop the drum from flying off! Be patient if it doesn't come off right away. When you think you've hit it enough....hit it some more. Do NOT hit the end with a BFH.....only the dogbone to tighten the screw against the axle.

 

My Dads old BIG puller is 5 legs, and makes that shiney one look like a toy. His is made to be hit on the end with a BIG sledge hammer. You tighten the crossbar with a hand sledge to put big tension on it, then bam with the sledge.

I've seen this tool rip the threads right out of all 5 lug holes when a local young guy borrowed it and did not belt the end. He kept tightening it instead.

 

OK got a question

Once you have the correct puller start by backing off the "minor" brake adjusters using a 3/4 inch wrench on the back of the backing plate.

Where is the minor brake adjusters are they the 2 nuts at the bottom on the back I know the 2 up top are the wheel cylinder also do I loosing them all the way off or just a couple of turns

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the 2 lower are adjustable anchors, or pivots.

the uppers are the regular adjusters that are used after the brake job was done, and the lowers were set properly.

during the life of a set of shoes, the lowers are not to be touched.

the taper is stuck, not the shoes IMO

 

I thought the top 2 on the back hold the wheel cylinder and thanks for the help

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The top two act as "stops", which let the shoe have very minor gap between the shoe and drum. They do change the throw on the wheel cylinders each time they are adjusted tighter.

The wheel cylinder travels further out as the shoes wear down, and the adjuster changes the point to which the shoe goes back, as you release the brake pedal.

 

OK so loose the top 2 or take them all the way out and thanks again

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In the following pics, the 2 cam bolts with the flats at the bottom of the backing plate are referred to as the "major" adjusters, the 2 bolts @the 10 & 2 o'clock positions are the "minor" adjusters.....they adjust the shoes as they wear. The 2 small bolts at the top are for the brake cylinder. These are from my '38 Plymouth, but your should be similar, if not identical. Once you turn the drums & install new shoes, you will most likely need an Aamco 1750 brake gauge to get them properly adjusted prior to installing the drums.

 

Any pics of this "old BIG puller with 5 legs"?

 

Keep in mind that when you 'BAM' the puller you are beating on the bearing as well, replace it before you go back together,,,or you'll be in there again.

 

here it is; might be from the 1940s or so, not sure.

 

Beat all day put heat and tried every pulley still no go even tries drilling out the key/pen still nothing

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What I do is, after hooking it all up:
Solid hit to tighten the puller, then a solid hit on the end. Leave it be for awhile, then hit it again. Soon enough, you will hear a bang. Then it's loose.

By solid hit, I mean with a serious mallet. Something that makes you grunt when you lift it.

Cosmo

 

refer to post number 3:

Some of these were very overtightened, and those will need a serious puller, or a very experienced person to get the thing off. I doubt the car is a driver, but if it was, you could go for a joyride with the nut backed off, swerving and etc.

Some guys leave that side wheel on the ground, then jack the other rear way up, then get some friends to rock/shove the weight over to the stuck drum. Never tried it, but have heard that over the years many times.

 

Are you using the hub puller that bolts to the drum?


If not - Buy one here:
http://www.tooltopia.com/otc-tools-7394.aspx

And get 2 extra legs so you have the best possible set up:
http://www.tooltopia.com/otc-tools-32937.aspx


Here I was also a tapered axle virgin popping off my first hub a year ago - came off real easy with the right puller from OTC:

 

Bought a non running 50 Chrysler ,75 miles from home.
One rear wheel would not turn.beat on it with big hammer and pryed with big screw driver for over an hour. It was after dark,in a small town no gas station,didnot know anyone.,my flashlite was going dead.
Along come's a guy,ask's what i was doing.( he scared me)I said that one wheel will not turn. He said, i can fix that,goes back to his pickup ,pulls out a honking big gun
30-06 i think( did not know if i should run or what) took one shot at the brake drum
( wakes all the dogs in town,it was a still night) low and behold it worked,thanked him,put the wheel on and towed it home. Glad to get home that night

 

that's nuts

 

Lol wow

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Thought for sure the punch line was going to be, he was carrying around an OTC puller.......... Well I have mine in a little red tool box waiting the day I may need it again....... Thing is heavy!

 

What they all said,....You need that puller !

ps; Never use that one for early Fords !

4TTRUK

 

or the ones from the auto parts store they will brake the studs

 

well if anyone has a used one for sale let me know...

 

And before some genius tells you to put anti seize on it, after it is apart to, make it easy to dis***emble next time, DON"T!!!!
Tapers are ***embled clean and dry. They're supposed to be hard to separate. That's the point

 

They are always on eBay Used and New - about the same money....

http://www.ebay.com/itm/hub-puller-...ools&hash=item4d1475219e&vxp=mtr#ht_21wt_1099

 

How's the brake drum puller quest going?