You won't get 6" out of a stock Model A axle, 3" typical and 4" absolute maximum. If you need 6" you'll need to buy an aftermarket axle. Measure from the inside lip to inside lip to determine "RIM WIDTH". This graphic should help... Notice that the measurements are not the outside of the wheel. Lots of people misunderstand this and measure wrong.
I forgot how much this sucks! I think I was getting a little bit delirious inhaling 50-year-old tire air... Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
This one just looked hard! Used bfh to get bead to break! These pieces really stiffened up the side wall Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
last pic for tonight... Loaded up front end... Pics to follow tommorow! Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
Front end loaded up on a crate... Blasted out nicely... All the nastiness is gone! Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
**MOST** of the nastiness is gone Now you take it apart and each and every part will reveal more nasty that needs to be cleaned off. You are doing great! Keep up the good work
I thought T's were funny looking! Just kidding I feel ya... Thank you Sir! I truly appreciate a senior HAMB'r helping a Noob like me I cant wait for yours and Eric's and Scribe's input on stance and other chassis goodness! Along with all the cool Hambones that have helped me... I want to replace/rebuild those front drums with juicers... Will let you know here soon! Whisky
If economics dictates the method of drop, there is another couple ways to consider, if you can do it yourself. There is a thread on the hamb somewhere on reversing the spring eyes. That will only get you a drop of an inch or two depending upon how many spring leaves you put back in. If you go with a T bucket style spring perch on the front, the height of the perch can be made longer. You could also step the frame at the firewall. This would partially counter the rise in the frame at the rear spring perch. You could go the controversial method of mounting your spring behind the axle between the wishbones. Quarter elliptic springs and under slung axle are two more options. I've seen lots of cars done different ways with a stock Model A front axle and they've all been pretty low. There is also tech here on the hamb on dropping your own axle, by bottle jack and a jig. Even if you buy a dropped axle you have to consider your tie rod clearance and steering link angle. One issue I ran into was the purchased axle was too thick for my wishbones, because there are two inch spring perch bosses and two and a quarter inch. I ended up machining down the bosses to two inch. I'd include a picture or two if I could remember where the information is in my vast collection of magazines and books. Unfortunately my brain is not as reliable in remembering things like my computer. I like a car built level with the same rubber all around, then raked with the tire sizes front and back.
Going back through the old pictures it looks like the chassis has a 8" - 10" kick in the rear. Depending on how you set up the rear spring, the type of spring, whether it has reversed eyes, where the mounts are, overall tire size, etc. will dictate where the car will sit. Once you have that figured out, combined with body, interior, passenger and fuel weights, you can begin to plan how to attack the front. You may be able to get a proper rake with a 3" axle and lowered, reverse eye spring, but you'll probably need to modify the front cross member to sit the spring up fairly high in the chassis. Get the rear end all figured out and we can help you a little more. My '27 T Roadster build: http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t= 734383
Small dent in inner rim... Will need some hammer and dolly work to bring back. This one looks good! Close to no pitting... Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
Heres two pictures to show what I mean. If you take the back fenders off of a stock Model A, the wheel well is ridiculously high If the wheels stick up over the trunk of a Model A coupe or roadster, it looks wrong plus you no longer have a usable trunk (no picture) Heres a picture where the wheels fit the wheel well Harmony and happiness
That spring pack is Very Bad Someone put it together using wrong leaves. Time to start over, you probably should start with another pack When you get all good leaves, grind out the wear on the top of each leaf, then grind the bottom sides of the tips to provide a bevel so they wont dig in next time. Some folks like plastic inserts between leaves.
Oh, a picture is worth a thousand words! The bottom one looks great... Will I be able to manage this with a T's natural body shape? Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
I noticed this... Where would I obtain/know which springs to get? Also can I mock up with this set or is that a bad idea, in that I do not have my dropped I beam? Further, would I just re-measure the I beam I have for replacement? Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
Thanks Eric! When I get the two other 17's I will do this! Ok then... So I need to get the back in order and then the front? Can I still order my front pack and I-beam? I want a 6" drop? Any vendor you recommend for this Eric? Whisky
Thanks for the detailed response Scribe! I don't want anything too exotic this time round... Maybe for the next build eh? I am just worried in that I order the wrong axle... I want a direct bolt on 6" replacement?? I see that and what you/he means now! However, I still appreciate the op taking the time to post as the candy red is gorgeous!! And the T looks dope...
I kinda wonder if a little form over function is going on here. Maybe some time with a piece of paper on the kitchen table is needed. Maybe reducing the kick on the rear and a managable drop axle is a better plan. Maybe a overall rethink of the frame plan is in order. Just a suggestion as you plan to use it with your family.
The Jalopy Journal
