Have a '34 pickup without a frame and the front 3/4 of a model A frame, thought what the heck I'd give it a look...does this look doable or does it look like crap? Plan is to channel the body over whatever we end up using as a frame. I think it would look best with an actual '34 frame but I don't have one...am I trying to make chicken salad out of chicken shit here???
You may save a few bucks now but it won't be worth the effort to use the A frame. Remember if you ever come to sell it the spindly frame will put buyer off. Think long term strength.
Side view of mine....channeled over a modified BB frame I was told. It goes straight back to a kick up before the rear,channeled the height of the frame(maybe + 1" or so) I would like the radiator higher, and maybe a regular bed, but this is the way it was built. Maybe give you some idea
Randy has a set of rails for sale down here and I can get the 32 and 34 rails. Sadly I will miss you on Turkeyday, we do Christmas and turkeyday at the same time with Carlas family.
Really hard to get it low. The 32 frame kicks ups like 3" and the 34 is even higher. But you sure could use the A front horns and make the rest. The foot box is a great place to do front kick up. Since you are channeling who cares what frame is under it. IMO
If you're going to channel it. I think you'll be fine. How is it any different then any other 32-34 truck on a 4"x 2" tube frame? Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
Want a 34 frame? Gotta get one then. Want it to "look" like a 34 frame ? Step by step. 1 Slide the truck back a little bit 2 pie cut the front rails just under the cowl, you want to raise the crossmember 2.5 " 3 pie cut the rails 12" behind the crossmember, you want to drop the crossmember .5" 5. Spread the rails to follow the general wedge shape of your 34 truck. 6 build the rear out of box tubing. Box the front part add Trans crossmember. 7 Now channel it the depth of the model a frame. 8 optional is to add 2" of depth to the frame on the bottom. 9. Set your radiator down till it lines up, you'll have to get it shortened probably about 4" Chicken salad on toast , from chicken shit and crackers
Good rule. Newer models typically mean higher horsepower and updated engineering to harness said horsepower. Model A frames were designed for low horsepower banger motors. I recall, before boxing my '31 frame, that it had very little torsional strength. I ended up boxing it full length and built home made cross members. I still had to add suicide door safety latches to keep the passenger door from opening voluntarily on hard launches. That being said anything will work with good engineering judgement and quality fabrication skills. Hope that helps!
My frame is Model A specs (103-1/2" wheelbase), aside from the front & rear (not radical) "Z"ing & 2"X4" tubing. It's channeled about 5." Not sure if this is what you're after, but it might provide some ideas and/or inspiration.
Boxing a frame helps with torsional strength but it's not the simple solution, nor is it the "answer" to a frame with poor torsional strength. Model A frame rails aren't very tall, not nearly as tall as a '34 frame. And that huge X frame crossmember on a '34 helps an enormous amount when it comes to torsional strength.
So do the curves in top view and side view. Boxed A frame isn't as bad as I thought, I pulled one tire off a boxed A roller out of necessity and it sits well on 3 tires. Necessity hasn't risen to put it back on yet . Lol
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