Anti-bag 49-52 Chevy thread

This is my '50 4 door.



fatman uprights and 1.5 coils cut up front, leaf pack de-arched and 3" blocks and air shocks in the back. Tires are 6.40-15 BFG silvertowns.

 

beautiful!

 

What is this about, I'm about to put 3 inch blocks on my pure stock 51 Fleetline, first time using blocks. Will I need to do anything else or will there be enough clearance?

 

Had 4" blocks under my '50. Don't put the mother-in-law in the back seat! Should be ok with 3".

 

I also cut the rear bump stops in half and I cut them at an angle to make it a little softer instead of having straight on contact when it bottoms out. I'm way under the scrub line in the rear with 3" blocks, you guys running 4 inchers must be dang near draggin!

 

again, I'm getting ready to put in 3 inch blocks and 2 inch drop springs up front, never done it before and wanting to make sure those will go in without clearance problems. Thanks for all of your help guys.

 

here's a picture of a 49 I had a few years ago.kinda hard to tell whats going on but you will notice the lowest point of the suspension is the bottom of the spring plate. no nuts and bolts hanging below the scrub line. I think I had 4" of block, these were 15's but I could run my 14's too and still be safe.

you can kind of see the nut and bolt in the dark up a couple inches.

 

No bags in the front of mine. (next year it will get them). its tuckin about an inch of rim on a 560 tire



thats a slimmer 60s ford next to me and my bumper sat below the bottom of it. Rear edge of front fender opening is below the bottom of the rim.

 

Just dropped the rear of my '51 this weekend 4" blocks on old leaf springs, I have about 1.5" - 2" of travel left.
Next is to step the lower A-arms and cut the coils for the front. I made my own lowering blocks too,(stacked &welded 2"x2"x1/4" box tubing). The best part of all is the box tubing was scrap from work I spent $20 for U-bolts and about $4 at the hardware for the allen-head cap bolts (for alignment pin) so for less than $25 bucks I got the back sitting right, and other than gas and welding wire, the front should be free to lower about 4"s. I'll get to that soon and post pics when I do. Thanks for all the great info in this topic!







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Got the front down now!
She's low now.....
Stepped the lower arms, and cut 2 coils off the spring.





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That looks good!!!

 

Couple update pics if my ute, I ran interstate recently at this height and had no problems

View attachment 2072949

View attachment 2072950


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Bags are for fags... U have to stay old skool and use oil pressure for adjustable ride height. Been working on this for three years, not sure if I'll ever be done.

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Why? Cause your custom look is supposed to be the only way to customize a car? Oh yea cause I would really like to have all that oil, batteries, battery acid, pumps, and hoses taking up all my trunk space! Not to mention all the oil stains on the driveway from those awesome leaking cylinders! Well I guess I'll just go out and buy some hydros..... so no my friend bags are not for fags, to each his own.

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Lots of really cool rides in this thread.
Here is my 50, cut coils in the front and 3" blocks in the back.
(unsure if this attachment will work )

 

What kind of hydros are u talking about or have seen? I have all my trunk space and this includes my two batteries. No leaks yet but then again its only been two years since I installed them. Anyways don't get ur panties in a bunch. Its only a quote that rhymes... Nothing more

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Here is my 49 it has 2-1/2" drop uprights an 3" blocks in back, it also has a disc brake upgrade as well,right now I trying to decide if I wanna run supremes or the steelies.

 

Steelies or supremes?

 

Tough one there, they both look good. I'm partial to steel / WW combo though


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Sorry for no pics just yet, but I've cut one full coil off front and 3" blocks in back on my '53. Loving the rear (without any further headache), but would like to cut more out of front. Judging by your pics, sounds like another half a coil would be no prob...but would I be pushing it/getting into any other issues/giving up any ride if i were to cut another full coil?? (to = 2 full coils cut) thanks in advance..will try and post my before and after pics.

 

Here she is in all of her glory..your thoughts much appreciated.

 

back in the day we wanted the gasser look....

 

I've decided to go with a set of the Fat Man Fabrication dropped uprights and steering arms for my 53. Can anyone tell me why there would be $190 difference in price between ordering them from Fat Man vs. ordering them from Hot Rod Hardware ($595.00 vs. $405). Not bashing anyone here...just want to make sure I order the right stuff, am I missing something?? (First picture being Fat Man Fab and second being Hotrod Hardware)

Also, here are the links:

http://www.fatmanfabrications.co/products/1949-1954-chevy-dropped-uprights/

http://www.hotrodhardware.com/index...gory_id=1096/home_id=-1/mode=prod/prd4629.htm

 

I had a look and I don't think the Hot Rod Hardware price includes the dropped steering arms. If I remember right the steering arms are about $190. I got mine from Gambino Customs.

 

...now that I had a look at both of them individually, your prob right. roughly 400-405 for the uprights and 185-190 for the steering arms. thanks for having a look kan't spell. appreciate it man..

 

Hey guys, great info. Here is my 51' delivery, with de arched springs and not sure in the front yet (just bought the car)


The diff has about an 1.5" of travel before it hits the stock bump stops.

If I add 2" blocks and trim the bump stop, will I be more likely to scrub the on tunnel first or will the diff be hitting the chassis first?

Ive had other static cars like Valiants, where the tailshaft will start to smack the tunnel before the diff hits the floor or chassis


This is just temporary option before I c notch and bag the thing

 

Great stance, did you have to trim the bump stop a bit, or delete it all together ?

 

Thanks, I trimmed them right back to abou 1/4 inch thickness. The pumpkin taps the trunk floor just before the diff hits the rails but on big bumps they both hit pretty hard. In western australia where i live it is illegal to c notch your cars chassis so unfortonately I just have to put up with the banging.


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Cheers mate, that's really good to know. I reckon ill trim the bump stops and lower it a bit more for the meantime. I might be able to get away with it lower as my delivery is lighter than a sedan or coupe, hopefully less radical when i hit a bump.

 

Reset leaf springs with tall bias ply's.

No blocks and stock front suspension


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