Features Doing Falcons Right

Super sano!

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Sharp. Is that T-5 backing up a 170? I like the wheels, too: V6 Mustang?

 

Thanks for the heads up. Just subscribed!

 

Very nice! And cool deal on scoring a wagon evilfalcon.

 

I finished the hood today. Color sanded and buffed it this morning, and this afternoon the chrome shop had the boomerang done. Sweet timing.

 

Yep, the 170 is still hanging out up front. And a yes on the V6 Mustang wheels. I painted the recesses darker to give them a little more definition.

 

Awesome wagon!!! Did you pick that up in Oxford ma? On ma Craigslist

What's the plans with it?

 

What year Mustang? Got any specs on the wheels? Sizes? Backspace? Tire sizes?

 

Hahah yes ! The 700 dollar wagon. In the process of redoing the woodgrain and putting the trim back on . Satin clearing the patina. And lowering it 3in front and back. And running my 14 inch steal wheels with original cal custom 4 lug spider caps and drive the hell out if it !

 

2005+ Mustang.


They are 16x7 with I believe a 39mm offset. I am running 205/60-16 tires.

 

YES! great plan Evil . Can't wait to see pics of it "Done" .



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Damn, ya'll have been busy.

I've been goofin' off mostly with the exception of one small project.

I've been running a low pressure hydraulic brake lite switch:



I haven't been real happy with the hydraulic switch's function in stop n' go traffic out among the masses who are all busy lookin' at their phones while they should be payin' better attention to the road so I decided to cobble together a pedal mounted mechanical brake lite switch:




I used a NAPA ECH SL200 mechanical brake lite switch and an adjustable master cylinder push rod that I bought from a Mustang vendor on the net.

I picked up the nylon bushings for the mounting stud and the push rod from the same outfit. The mounting stud was made from a 9/16" OD leaf spring shackle pin that I shortened and drilled a hole in for the retainer.

After the push rod was shortened a half inch and turned down for more threads, it was just a matter of crawlin' under the dash and puttin' it al together on the brake pedal:



I used a 20A fused constant hot circuit to the switch and the output went directly to the stop lite feed on the turn signal switch.

Now, I can "tap" the brake pedal and maybe get the attention of the idiot behind me.

 

I knew it, was eyeing that. Looks like a great start. Def post pics, dropped wagons are the shit. Where can you get the spider caps? Only nos ones floating around , or does someone make repros?


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I just did the mechanical brake light switch conversion, on my '60, for the same reason. The pressure switch does not come on, until you have built pressure. Now, I have lights, the instant I touch the pedal.

 

cool deal on the brake switch! all sorts of good ideas on here

 

Like the brake light switch idea. Since I dot like the idea of my brake lights only working half the time on my 60.


ROTTEN CC Tracy Ca.

 

http://www.virginiaclassicmustang.com/65-70-BRAKE-MASTER-CYLINDER-PUSH-ROD-SPACER-C5DZ-2B129-B-P280.aspx

http://www.virginiaclassicmustang.com/65-AFTER-81764-73-BRAKE-MASTER-CYLINDER-PUSH-ROD-BUSHING-AT-PEDAL-P281.aspx

http://www.virginiaclassicmustang.com/ADJUSTABLE-BRAKE-MASTER-CYLINDER-PUSH-ROD-P398.aspx

 

Thanks for the link. Was wondering where u could get those nylon bushings from. Since my parts house would have to order them they said.


ROTTEN CC Tracy Ca.

 

I'm sure there's a vendor on the left coast that would have them.

I use these guys because they're close and the prices are very competitive...

 

So do I need to run the adjustable pedal rod or can I use the stock rod? Just trying to make it as cheap as possible since money is tight this month and I'll be doing my 60 and 61 falcon.


ROTTEN CC Tracy Ca.

 

I dunno, Dad, I didn't try the original push rod-



Notice that the original push rod (top) uses an eccentric bolt for pedal free play adjustment and it doesn't have the flat on the end (where the pedal pivots on the push rod) that engages the mechanical brake light switch.

I knew that most later master cylinder push rods have the flat, so I didn't try the original.

 

Hmmm. Haven't looking at mine in awhile. I'll have to check it out here in a few and find out. But looking at the pic looks like I might need the adjustable one.


ROTTEN CC Tracy Ca.

 

Nos cal custom I posted in here. and got a set best of luck ! I want to eventually start making them

 

On the brake light switch fix on my '60, with the eccentric adjuster.

I knocked out the pedal stop bumper, and put a Standard Motor Products SLS66 switch, in its place. I just spliced into the green wire that comes out of the column, and bridged the wires that went to the original pressure switch.

A little less complicated, and the switch is super-common.

 

I used a mechanical lever switch on my Roadster simply because I could stop the Roadster with a light touch on the pedal and never light the lights, 4 wheel discs. I set it up so a 1/4 inch of movement on the brake pedal sets off the lights.
Just a thought

 

That's simple. Same brake switch used on a 75 chevy pickup and I got a few laying around. Thanks for the info. Seems Easier and it's cheaper then the other way since the switch is only like 6 bucks at your local parts house.


ROTTEN CC Tracy Ca.

 

That was exactly what I was thinking. Easy, repeatable, easily field-serviceable.

 

And exactly what I needed too. Was looking at my pedal assembly today and trying to find a simpler way and you figured it out for me. As for the green wire off the column. Is that a hot wire? I got an after market harness so will have to look at what wires I have off that for a brake switch. Since I haven't finished wiring it all in yet.


ROTTEN CC Tracy Ca.

 

Nice!

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