Repair for spun wheel bearings

I have been looking for advise on how to repair the front spindles on my '57 chevy. The bearings spun many years ago and I have been running the worn spindles. This may be my source of front end vibration and shake so I need to repair. All used spindles I have found have the same problem and the only new spindles are dropped spindles.

My concern is any heat added to the spindle to weld repair could lead to cracks. Turning down and adding a sleeve may be a solution but reducing the diameter will be weaker than original but maybe not a problem. Flame spray of the shaft and re-machining is the same problem as welding, adding heat and possible cracks.

Anyone have experience in this repair?

 

We used to polish the spindle as best we could with Emory cloth. Then try to find the bearing change over hubs. Several different ways to do so. Have taken a punch and knurled the spun area to help hold the new race. Never had a problem that I know of.

 

I've done the punch trick on a few myself. I guess it works well because I don't hear about them again. Last one was a constantly overloaded Chevy van.

 

Is the bearing that loose on the spindle to allow the wheel to shimmy?

I have had bearings turn on the spindle and the spindle gets galled up to where the bearing is too tight on the spindle. I then use emery cloth to smoothen it down.

I question if the spindle is causing your problem.

Neal

 

I have read that the inner cone was purposely left a bit loose so it was free to march around the spindle to keep loading equal . Most have gone to the timken style conversion bearings to replace those ball bearing units .CPP is now offering stock style replacement spindles .

 

could have it zinc plated, that would increase the od very slightly, or like others say punch the area in several places to "stake" the bearing.

 

I have used the punch in several places and then red locktite the bearing race. So far it has not failed.

 

Locktite makes a special sealer just for loose bearing races

PosLotted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!

 

Loctite liquid metal works well also. I have heard of them being hard chromed and reground back to stock size but this is not a cheap exercise

 

Uhh,

http://www.danchuk.com/ItemForm.aspx?Item=16977

 

This is the proper way to repair a shaft that has had a bearing spun on it.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oGPeyjRhk0I

The set up that I use to have was called a Metalizer. The process involves feeding the wire to the tungsten electrode and then compressed air blows the molten metal on the shaft that is being built up for repair. Once the build up process is done then the shaft can be turned between centers on a lathe and the repaired area is machined to the proper size.

I have seen a knurling tool that was very similar to a pipe cutter. It was used to knurl the shaft and then the shaft was turned to size using the same procedure described above. It would next to impossible to use a punch as previously described and end up with the wheel bearings being on a common axis.

McGurk

 

Only if you don't mind running the risk of loosing a wheel.

Hard chrome creates brittleness so it must be properly terminated. For example. When rebuilding a crankshaft with hard chrome an oversize radius is dressed on the grinding wheel that is used to prepare the journal for hard chrome. When the crankshaft is finish ground then the standard radius is used. That sizes the hard chrome journal and cleans the hard chrome out of the fillet radius. YOU DO NOT WANT HARD CHROME in or on an area that is subject to stress.

My experience was in the crankshaft shop at Swick-Guth company in McPherson, KS. They were a Caterpillar sanctioned engine parts re-manufacturer prior to Caterpillar opening their in house reman shop.

McGurk

 

I'LL SECOND THAT; it sounds dodgy but i have never had that fail, that loctite is f'n amazing and your not using any heat! we did some repairs to a high speed compensating roller on a conveyer belt that runs 24/7 in a news print factory a few years back( the inner race had spun on the shaft) , and havent had any trouble with it since.

 

I converted to Timken bearings and disc brakes many years ago so at least that part is better condition. I agree about chrome plating leading to embrittlement. Knurling the journal and machining to size may be a reasonable method. At least this way the two journals can be placed on a common center.

I used loc-tite cylindrical parts fitter at one time but it was cracked and breaking up the next time I serviced bearings. Maybe I could us it to build up the shaft and carefully machine the loc-tite down before installing the bearing. I have not tried the red loc-tite but I expect that the bearing would not come off the shaft. I had that condition one time with the cylindrical parts fitter but the seal pulled out of the hub leaving the bearing so that I could get to it.

I also agree the loose bearings (both sides) may not be the source of my vibration problems. I have read about others having wheel centering problems (I am running Cragars) so I need to check out that possibility. Since the problem did not change when the tires were rotated I expect something in the hub/bearing area.

Thanks for the help.

 

If it were me, given that replacements are $160 for a new forged steel pair, I'd just save up.

 

Took me all of 45 seconds to find brand new stock height spindles on eBay.

Cpp sells new concours correct drum brake spindles for 169.95

 

I did point that out, in post #11. I won't pick up a tool to repair a survival critical part, that can be had as a good exact duplicate, new, for that money.

 

Exact duplicate- Or china quality casting.

I'm finding that replacement vs repair needs evaluated on an individual basis.
Its hard to beat the original quality of some parts. As for myself,I worry about crappy cast iron long before I wory about hydrogen embrittlement, but that's me and your mileage may vary.

 

Forged, not cast. Even good used ones are still out there.

 

Ok,sounds like a real good price,maybe too good,, more Chineses or Indian stuff full of porosity voids ???

 

So buy a used pair. Last Goodguys I went to, a guy there had 4-pair, $75/pair.

 

Thank you for the guide to new forged spindles. That will be my choice, the car is a driver not on a trailer so quality matters most.

 

The repops seem too good to be true from that price I saw of $159 pr! There's GOT to be some nice originals out there considering how many of those cars were built and modified. That's the way I'd go. Dimple punching them will work, but given the non rare status of these parts, I wouldn't dimple them. (my .02). Get a hold of R. Seghi here and see if he still has the parts off his 55 that got straight axled by Kiwi Kev

 

I have not kept up with the changes to what is available therefore I did not know about new stock height spindles. I will investigate the quality, mostly by finding the real country of origin. I always try to buy American, even when it was not popular 20 years ago.

 

You just cant beat a good quality replacement part for peace of mind!

 

I've 'punched' one of these, for myself, many years ago. It's still holding up good - no problems. But, since then, I had an old-timer (even older than me), pass on a trick that he has used for many (over 60) years... He takes a copper rod on a stick arc welder, and 'skates' over the affected area. Doesn't transfer any measurable heat, and upsets the area a lot like the 'punch' method. Quick and effective, and has served him, mostly on truck repairs, for all these years. Just another idea, and Just an opinion.

 

so thats just a bare copper wire say about 1/8 or so, and run it in the arc welder over the work piece.What amperage would you run for that? 40 amps maybe? sounds like it could work quiet well.

 

He told me he uses 1/4 copper rod, got from a weld supply shop. I don't know about amps - if it were me, with my old (Lincoln) AC buzz box, I'd probably try something around 80, and adjust from there. I expect to see the guy in a couple weeks - I can ask.

 

i suppose youd just have to get a feel for it, as all welders are a bit differnt.

 

Ditto, go for the replacements; They must be out there, as many cars that were built !!

4TTRUK