Ok so I'm ready to do a test fire on my newly built 50 ford flathead engine and would like to know what oil is good for break in? Some guys say use Lucus additive for the high zinc in it. Would you also use a regular 10/30 oil like castrol with the Lucas or something else? Thanks Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
This is what I use. People bitch about the price. but I am like..."Dude you just spent 5k on this engine....now you want to run cheap oil?" http://www.saferacer.com/joe-gibbs-racing-break-in-oil?gclid=CPfn37qOiLsCFWGCQgodOB8AMw
There's a number of Threads on oil. Basicly use pre SM oil or use additive like Lucas, ZDDPlus, Risilone, ect.
Nice runny oil (10/30 etc) with lots of zinc in it - additive if necessary. Make sure the cam lobes are really well gooped up with the proper stuff and do a first oil change after 500 miles and you'll be go to go & go & go....
hhhmmmmm gAssmonkey just had a problem with additive in breakin oil. Not that it is an answer to your question.
I only use Brad Penn Oil in any engine that has a flat tappet camshaft, not only for break-in, but I continue to use it afterwards. I have seen hundreds of engines ruined because of not using the correct products. Do NOT assume that once you make it through the break-in procedure that you can then switch to regular off-the-shelf oils and continue to protect the engine properly. Be smart and use Brad Penn Oil.
I used 10 quarts of Joe Gibbs break in oil in my blower motor for 20 minutes, then threw it away. Hurts, but look at it as an investment in that expensive motor. Switched to the Joe Gibbs hot rod oil from then on. Brad Penn stuff would probably do just as well. Why screw around with additives? Ralph
Ditto, on the "lots of zinc" oils. I use 30 wt hd oil with zinc additive. So far, so good....... 4TTRUK
Find the article written by Lake Speed's son. He works for Hendrix NASCAR team as the oil Dr. He explains oil in the best I've ever read. He says lots of zinc no detergent, just like many have said here, but he explains why in an easy to understand way.
I use 30wt ND with a zinc additive... After cam break-in I dump it and replace it with a high quality 20-50 like Brad Penn. I change it again after 500 miles, then 1,000, them 2,000.
Ha ,don't know how gas monkey got in my thread....... so if I use this joe gibbs oil should I pick the 15/50 or 5/30 version? These are the only two available I can see. Thanks Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
Saw the damage not using break in oil in the gas monkey show . If I spent that much money on a rebuild I would spend the money on zink oil. Just sayin .Bruce.
Just picked up 9 cases of Brad Penn today. 1 was 30w Break In No additives needed. Yep,am a fan of BP.
Just a Q? With regaurd to all this "additive musts" recently, is it a spring pressure thing,or just we're getting crappy oil now a days? I've never used an additive-ever. Never had any issues,even with crazy non Hamb friendly engine/spring pressure. Myth?,or necessity? If it's because of today's oil,then i'll go for it. Comments?
Late Model engines are so different in so many ways, the oil on the Auto Parts shelves today are for stock late model engines which do NOT have flat tappet camshafts.
it's getting hard to come by, but cam2 break in oil is great stuff. amsoil also has a great break in oil that is pretty easy to find. good stuff there too, been using it for about two years, probably 40-50 flat tappet engines, and not had a cam failure.
Cool- and thanks for a reply. Say an "old school" engine with a hydraulic cam,with just above stock spring pressure? Seems the world is comming to an end with the hype.... If it's just the way oil is produced now a days,and less zinc,then I'll go for it. Possibly an additive for break in.....then switch over. I can't believe those who are swearing by it-besides those in the know and are covering their behinds.I trust their advise. But- is it a bandwagon thing,or is their proof=first hand,that it WAS the oil,and not someone's miscue's in break-in procedure...... Seem's people are swearing by it,but,can they pin-point a failure to oil,and not their own screw up? Just food for thought,and not starting a shit storm.
If it's a 'old school' engine as you say, it needs Brad Penn Oil (or a equal) in it, and NOT just for the break-in procedure, keep using it. I know of engines that were broke in correctly and then dumped and then changed to off-the-shelf oils and with in 100 miles or less the cam was ruined.
There's a bunch of Threads talking about this with a wide variety of opinions. Roller engines don't need the zinc that was used to protect flat tappet cam shafts, that's a fact. Eliminating zinc reduces emissions so the OEMs got it removed from the oil. It has been established that some Chevys with stiff springs wiped out some cams from one un-named supplier. I haven't seen anything definatly saying if it was the lack of zinc, a batch of bad cams, or bad liters(from China??) that was to blame. Supposedly something was added to the oil to replace the zinc, some have said that whatever it is it doesn't work. There is a number of Brands of oil out there that is SF (pre SM is what you want) & should have enough zinc to do the job. Why take a chance?
I've never heard of "break in oil" When I build in engine, the break in protection has always been in the Liberal use of assembly lube I used when assembling the engine. The oil has always been cheap store brand oil, that I dump after 30 minutes. I now add the comp cams or other brand additive from day one as an extra precaution, but only in the last 2-3 years did I start doing that.I have never had a problem, and I have been doing it this way 25 years.
George- it's my HEMI! And believe me-I'm not taking any chances! I've read the threads,the hype,the"ya it's the best". Seems that oil ain't what it used to be. And as Eric said=same here. I'll CMA!,but,never experienced it myself,or know of anyone who has...... If i've heard of "flat cams",the break in procedure was wrong,or it was an assembly issue...... I'm going to go for it despite my posts,and was anyways,but,just trying to get a grasp on why....but I get it. I'm more of a tried and true guy,not what is the newest thing without trial and error..... Believe me- Ain't gonna error on this one! Thanks-Kid
Several things are happening. First is counterfit lifters That are not hardened properly. Second is reduction of zinc in oils to protect catalytic converters. Third is that a lot of high spring pressure flat tappet engines are being built. These all have contributed to cam failures. The answer is use good parts and lots of assembly lube and a break in additive for the first 20 minutes of cam break in.
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