Projects 27Roadsterguys Roadster Build... (starting from scratch)

Ok, so here's a couple pics... I hope you like these better than my "80's" wheels

Here's my Z job on the back of the frame...



Here's a view of the frame from the back...



And lastly a shot from the front...



this is just tacked together for now, as I want to test fit everything, before having it fully welded.

Soooo.... What ya think?

 

The car that is the inspiration for this build has wide rear tires....

The Wheels I really want to run on this car are Chromed 15x8 or 15x10 Steel Wheels, maybe with chrome hub caps. Nothing really radical, just a little wider than stock. I like the Big and Little tire look...

 

Frame looks like a good start. What is the intended wheelbase?

I would get the frame on something that you can clamp on before laying the bead. Measure over and over as you go.

I also dig the 510! Love those cars.

 

Thanks on the 510, I have a collection of datsuns.

As far as the frame goes, my buddy that's welding it has a frame jig. He builds a lot of hot rods and roadsters. I haven't figured my exact wheel base yet though, but believe it'll be about 6 inches longer than a stock 26 T when I'm done.

As far as rear suspension goes... I'm going to run radius rods and a rear hung axle spring on a ford 9 inch rear end.

 

Just curious.... Does anyone know how far apart (eyelet to eyelet center) my rear axle spring mount should be on my rear axle? I'm going to be running a speedway medium arch 2" rear spring.

 

Traded off those wheels to my welding guy, for squaring up and welding my frame.

 

On the spring, it really depends on what rear spring you'll use. If you can figure what model the spring is from, it shouldn't be hard to find the width. Sorry, I'm not much help there.

 

Thats ok, the brackets have instructions, but they say to put the weight of the car on the rear spring to determine how wide apart to mount the brackets... I can't do that without the car being built, so I'm gonna have a couple friends sit on the back of the frame with the spring mounted and the body on the frame. I think that's gonna be real close to dry car weight. Then measure the spring location.

 

Stupid question... What supports the back of my flathead? My guess is it is held up by just the front motor mounts and the transmission. Is that correct, as I don't see any other mounting points?

 

That's correct, no center support/mount.

My '27 T Roadster build: http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t= 734383

 

Thanks, I called a couple parts shops and was told it was bolted to the trans crossmember and that sounded wrong. I'm glad you knew the answer, cuz I was lost on it.

 

Check out my recent threads on my T build, there are some frame shots that may help. Good luck.

Tony

 

Happy to help. Really enjoying your build!

My '27 T Roadster build: http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t= 734383

 

Thanks, I'm trying to keep it pretty much old school. I am planning to run a c4 transmission though. Mainly to just make it more driver friendly for the lady of the house,, in case she ever drives it. I'm pretty torn in paint though. I found a candy Orange that I'm in love with, but it wouldn't be " period " correct. I'm a long way from having to worry about that yet though.

The Paint Color I'm In Love With....



What ya Think

 

I'm also fond of the "Chrome" and "Vermilion" colors on this paint chip chart...
Bonus.... They're "period" Correct...

 

More than being period correct, YOU need to be happy with it. Choose a color you like, but remember that choice may not work well with other aspects of the car.

The candy-copper thing makes me think of early to mid sixties show car, so I'd accentuate it with lots of chrome, long headers, chrome wheels, etc.

My '27 T Roadster build: http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t= 734383

 

Thanks, good point! It is going to have a lot of chrome and polished stainless anyway.

 

I got my original 26 roadster fuel tank back from the shop yesterday with the modern fuel sending unit installed, so I can have an accurate gas gauge in the car. Pic coming soon.

 

Ok, I'm really frustrated...

My rear spring sits way to high inside the factory spring perch (big gap under spring), plus I can't find the correct width U-Bolts for the Model T perch. I think I'm going to have to cut off the perch that is welded on there and fab up a tubular one...

 

What do you mean it sits too high inside? The bottom of the spring isn't flush with the bottom of the crossmember? You may need to modify the clamps to take up the space....it's a pretty common deal.


And no, your local hardware store probably doesn't have Model T rear spring U-bolts. You can buy them from numerous sources online.

 

These look just like the clamps that I just got from SoCAl, but they are about 3" wide, I need 2 1/2" inch wide. The exact measurement is 2 3/8" that I need, but 2 1/2" would probably work. No One seems to sell them. And yes, it sits to high in the crossmember, so it it no where near flush with the bottom.

If I use the 3" wide clamps that I have, then the clamp won't be in full contact with the rear crossmember (there will be a gap on the front and back sides). I really need to find the 2 1/2" U-Bolts.

 

Nice Build going on! I have a '27 Sedan I will soon be starting on. This gives me inspiration!!!

 

Google
https://www.google.com/#q=2.5"+square+u+bolt&tbm=shop

 

Thanks everyone for the input, but... I got it figured out.
I took a drive up to the local Hot Rod shop "OLD DOGS SPEED SHOP" and showed em' what I had going on and the guy took me back to the build shop where they're working on about 6 new hot rods and showed me how they fix the same problem. Very cool guys

He told me to slot the hole in my Model T Crossmember to allow for the slightly wider square U-Bolts and then simply grind down the spring spacer pad (that block of steel that takes up the gap between the U-Bolt plate and the spring) and call it a day.

Soooo... after about two hours in the garage, more dremel bits than I can count, and a grinding disc later... TADAAAA....








Nothing sucks worse than having to grind and modify new parts, except... Not having any parts to modify.

I also removed the ends of the rear crossmember for body clearance, I'm planning to graft em' back on the rear of the frame somewhere, later in the build, to regain the body mount.

 

Thanks, I'm trying. It's my first old school "Hot Rod" type car.

 

Here's a couple pics of the body, over the frame (first time I've put the two together for mock up)








And a Cheezy pic of me dreaming of it being finished.

 

I almost forgot the gas tank pics...

Here's the fuel line hook up repair...


Top view, with fuel gauge sending unit installed.



More coming soon...

 

I ordered my first shiny parts today... Polished stainless steel rear radius rods and rod ends. Also ordered rear leaf spring axle mounts and some drilled frame gussets. Parts should be here Saturday. I'll post pics when they arrive.

 

Great score on the body.Will be following along.
Good luck.Have fun.Be safe.
Leo

 

Thanks, and lollllzzzzz.... I actually had to go to the ER last night, cuz I didn't wear goggles while I was grinding on those parts and got metal dust in my left eye. Lesson learned.