*#* 1243 is the order for the Dec 2013 Banger Meet*#*

Not a B but but you just feed from the pump to the block on the Firewall


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I believe I was quoted around $1800 including shipping to so cal.

 

That seems a very good price Roger every thing I buy here in NZ I can at least double the prices by the time I pay customs exchange rates and shipping not to mention the odd person who will send a substandard item to the otheside of the world though I must say that the help and trouble that members of the monthly banger meets have gone too in helping me out have been far beyond anything I have expected thanks guys.

 

Rusty -
You're correct, it is a good price for a well built QC and the Rodsville QC is priced about the same. But for what I'm building I can use the Spadaro/Winters unit and just get a lot more for less money.

 

You Guys No one asked what other mods he was doing!!!!!!

Big Valves don't do much without other stuff!!!

 

Trying to not go to the firewall so I would be running the opposite way of yours. Wondering if anyone has run headline from cabs to fuel pump on a B.

 

Jim I use to run a fuel line to a Bfuel pump most of us use a flexable line for a portion of the distance between say a fire wall and fuel pump so as to do away with any chance of metal fatigue in the old days they use to wind a coil in the line to counter act this now a piece of fuel grade rubber hose is the norm. There has been discussion on what type of line to use ie copper steel or stainless generally plain steel is best with a section of fuel grade rubber. there are modern addaptors similar to what Crazydaddyo is useing Sac vintage Ford generally lists them. I use a small modern electric low pressure fuel pump with a filter and the tank (they cant handle any crud what so ever) no pressure valve and it works very well with the tank in the pickup bed and if anything the duel carbs slightly higher than the tank.

 

MN Stumpjumper as Bluto infers when we build a motor we look at it as a whole we work out what will work with what ie high compression head and heavy flywheels may cause problems. When we have our design we price it get a scare take short cuts blow up our first motor and start again. We call that fun part of the learning curve. Wonder why so many go to belly ****on SB Chevs? But they aint half the fun.

 

best to do it now. Once you put a High compression head on, cam, intake, and exhaust, you start to run into the limitations of the valves.

 

Thanks for the replies, I pan on a Hi-comp head, better can grind and downdraft carb.
What size are you guys using and where are you buying them?

 

Rain has ruined my day.

 

CDO, yep SoCal, two rain days a year............
don't we have it ruff?

It is a good day for playing on flow bench.

J

 

Hi John!

Check previous Banger meetings, this has been discussed earlier.
I consider myself a newbie, but I had the unpleasant experience myself with my first B-motor; here's my blogpost about, how I pressure tested my block: http://dannerrsbmotor.blogspot.dk/2013/02/bitter-sweet-news.html Feel free to copy the idea.

Good luck, keeping my fingers crossed for your block!

 

Hate when it happens!...

 

I had time to look through some old S.O.S.S. and F.A.S.T. mags,and found a couple articles on large valves.
1. S.O.S.S. Jan. 2013 page 45. C Yapp writes about A and B valves.
"The model A has room. The model B does NOT have room. Yes, you might be able to cut the hole in the model B but the remaining material will be thinner. Stress from heat and pounding may cause trouble eventually."
Has anybody put the large valves in a B without problems?

 

Yes, see pic of Roadster Pick above.

 

Thank you for the Help. I have to admit I didn't use the search tool. Some times I can never get any good results from it. I guess I need to be more persistent. Digging around in the garage I also found the fuel pump intake and exhaust manifolds and the correct 3 bolt water pump for that b engine. I will keep everyone posted on how this engine looks after closer inspection.

John

 

Couldn't let a little snow ruin my day!!!
Of course if I had a RPU and a hot motor it might have

 

I'm running 1.770" intake valves and stock exhaust valves.

Here is a link to some pictures of the port work I did too.

http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=756836&page=2


Mr. Yapp has a lot of opinions. Some of us who do work on performance bangers have different opinions.

He is correct about the B being thinner, but it can be done.

After all he is trying to sell you an OHV head. He doesn't want you to know that you can make a flat head run better then a stock engine with a 2 port Riley.


.

 

Fortunately we don't get snow here. But I would love to do some "snow drifting" some day.

The rain only ruined my day of drag racing. I still drove it home in the rain. I havent had that much fun since my days of riding motorcycles in the rain. I was the first time the RPU has seen water.

.

 

And don't forget the Morton & Brett OHV heads for Dodge Bros. and Ford. (Dodge shown here)

 

You are welcome. Yeah, searching can be a wife!
Always good to find stuff in the garage- especially stuff, you forgot you had!

 

That's the spirit! Come rain or snow, cars are build to go!



(I know, it's parked, but I still like the picture!)

 

Thanks for the link T-Head....


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I should be able to get into that engine over may days off coming up. I will snap a few pics and show everyone what i found inside!

John

 

Snow drifting may be fun to some but it looses its fun quality when you see a guard rail,post,tree or car rapidly approaching.

 

May I suggest that if you want to use 3 carbs the I use Weber 34 ICH's on a 2 ltr motor and they work very well.

You'll need a long hill or dyno to jet them right.

 

Lots of fun in my book...

http://youtu.be/WduWijQSBPg


Daddy O
If you find your self in CT in the winter my door is always open and we will find some snow to play in.

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Does anyone have info on a cranks made by Standard Crankshaft Company



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