Testing the waters. Possible chrome venture being considered.

What about stripping chrome? Would you offer that as a service? I've found most local platers won't just strip, they want to then charge for replating the parts. A good example is a chromed part that needs welding or machining and needs the chrome stripped. If this is done in a different tank, do you have the same maximum size range as mentioned for your actual plating process?

Thanks,
Steve

 

I'm still working on my parts. Should say this next question is directed to jimmy2S83. Any advice on how best to fill the two draw marks by the green arrows? I was thinking silver solder?? or maybe braze? They are pretty deep to pick and file, and they are on both valve covers.

 

You can anodize aluminum at home with a battery charger.

 

Silver solder probaly a better (safer) avenue as it doesn't require the same heat as brazing which could warp the cover. I've seen it done both ways. With the thinner sheet steel I would just rather go with the solder for the better safe than sorry aproach.

 

Im in, sent you a pm !
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Thanks. Before I finish that area, I'll open 'em up a bit with a dremel, and fill them with silver solder.

 

I have read through this whole thread..I appreciate what the OP is doing, it will make many people have a whole new world of fabrication/creativity depending on how they finish the item, from a milled or belt sanded finish, crosshatch block sanded, or polished to a mirror finish with a rubber wheel on beveled edges...One question I have is can you plate up to a point [what will be seen] and then paint the rest [not seen area]? Like a wheel hoop [rim], since it will only be seen from the out side once the center is in..

 

Do it the way you want it. Not what others tell you.

 

wtf???

 

What I learned is that the preliminary process (acid??) eats away mild steel faster than brass and leaves a awful line between the two materials. Possibly a plater who cares would make this less of a problem

 

Diecast and aluminum require a specific copper 1st. Some parts tossed into the wrong solution will simple dissolve like sugar in hot water. The difference in cost is huge. I get confused on the 2 coppers used, there's acid copper and another form of copper as well. One is like a plater's "primer", the other a bright copper that almost like a sealer that can be polished to a mirror finish then bright nickel and off to chrome. None of it fills well with exception of the 1st copper I mentioned. With the price of copper being almost out of consideration it's easy to see why the prices for chrome services has risen so much. The EPA thing, that started to sodomize the business decades ago. One of my local shops uses (I think) 'grey nickel' for polishing and finishes with bright nickel for shine. Chrome is so thin, if you could remove the layer you can damn near see through it. These are things I've learned over decades of show/restoration work.

All of those concerns gone, I too might have some parts to send off soon. The good experiences far outweigh the bads in my history, but excess copper use was one of my peeves, parts that were simply too big to go back where they came from. If it's not too much to ask I'd like to hear how you're handling such concerns. I get the idea of reducing the hours needed to finish and promoting metal finishing in advance of the service. It's always been the time to finish that drives the price (labor hrs), then add the EPA and the spike in metal prices? I don't envy your choice to go for it but I hope it works out. For fill, low temp silver solder is indeed the best. It files and finishes nice, in the hands of an experienced finisher simply disappears once chromed. Again, time=$$$$ and better to spend/earn your own beforehand.

 

Pics ?

 

local guy did just that. low $ chrome small parts. he said they should fit in a 5 gallon pail. He spent alot of money on it and now it's setting unused. His mistake was he didn't sell the program as LOW $ every one thought it was a chrome shop!!! till they got their parts back.

 

Good to hear this from yet another source I trust. Chromeplater Josh mentioned silver solder to me off-board before, in regards to repairing a horn ring prior to plating. Still just thinking about that one, its gonna be a real bitch to repair, and its for a future project, so not a high priority right now. Silver solder is also a material that I am fairly comfortable working with, so its a win/win.
I really like the idea of reducing my costs by doing my own metal finishing, as I find that as a general rule, work that I farm out isn't usually done with the same care I would give it anyway.
A quick tip, if anyone has trouble finding different temp silver solder, I get mine from a place that sells jewelers supplies.

 

I'm still working on getting pictures posted.
Just so much going on this month!
I'll be in Detroit this weekend only to come back long enough to go to a Christmas Eve party.
Once the New year is here I'll have much more free time to get things all sorted out.
Thanks for the patience!

 

This took 37 seconds on my fucked up phone.
Not chrome but seasonal scenery is ok to look with you guys to look at, right?

 

She has a bit of a "bitchy" look about her. I like that. Isn't she the one from USA Network's series "Suits"?

 

Sorry for the delay on the pics. Here's the water pump he did for me. It was an old chromed job that was mostly peeled, so I blasted the remainder of the chrome off and sent it to Jimmy. I didn't want it polished in the nooks and crannies. I think it looks great, and will be sending more stuff to him when he's ready for full-blown production.



.

 

Can I just say how great this is? Finally a lower cost option AND it's more true to 40's and 50's chrome work. I had been told of an older local guy that did backyard chrome work and that he did a "crappy" job but all the traditional guys loved his work because it so closely resembled that of the old chrome work that was found at swap meets and on old hot rods. I look forward to doing an imperfect polish job on some smalls and sending them off for this gentleman to dip. I'm very much hoping this endeavor is as successful and I think it can be. JohnnA

 

Im ready..

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I'm hoping this is still 'on'....

Being a home polisher, I will say that understanding the prep process is critical. If this were a paint job, imagine not being allowed to use any filler, no primer, and you're putting the top coat over the bare metal... and you're only allowed one thin coat of paint. If the part will look good doing this, it will look good plated.

 

The biggest problem is people "SAY" they want it "DOWN & Dirty" but once they get it they want a 100% perfect product at the "Down & Dirty price"

 

A friend of mine had a very HIGH CLASS paint & body shop & I talked him into doing some "DOWN & DIRTY" paint jobs ( which he didnt want to do) where he would literally use a scotch brite pad & paint the car when the car came in it was numerous colors & when it left it was one color HAPPY HAPPY HAPPY& $$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$

 

Its really straightforward. Its down to how YOU prep the piece before you send it in. Whatever you get is a reflection of the quality of YOUR work.

 

Exactly...there's no complaining allowed...it's a very simple premise. You get back what you put into it. And realistically if the part you want chromed is obscenely rare or valuably don't send it to the guy but it's a great opportunity to add some bling to you're smaller bits and pieces. JohnnyA

 

no epa nazi's,

 

Sorry for the delay guys! Working on a good address to have the parts sent to. My home address just won't work as I am gone all day at my job and don't want packages sitting out while I am away and unable to secure them.
Getting a P.O. Box and checking on other options so UPS and FedEx can be used.

Any ideas or recomendations on shipping options? Thought about putting a container that boxes could be put in at my house but hoping to avoid that. (as is the wife. LOL)

On a side note I will peform mild refinishing on the parts but only a quick polish and shine before plating. No repairs, no heavy copper buffing, ect. Any deep pitting, gouges, ect will still be there. Only light pitting and scratches would be removed. So you don't "have" to polish them. Though I will say doing your own polishing to what you like will allow you to get the finish you put into it. Any defects left will only be highlighted in plating. Once again I can refinish the parts but not to a high end finish.

 

This is a recipe for disaster ! One mans "oh it looks fine" is another mans "WTF ! "

 

Nice first post.

 

correct application of cyanide copper before the acid copper will not result in any etching or damage to your base material. You can actually apply acid copper directly over brass because brass is copper with zinc . always safe to hit it with cyanide copper first just to b safe.