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Projects 36 ford truck Anyone have pictures of how the hinges hold to the body?

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by 31Vicky with a hemi, Jan 11, 2014.

  1. I have a 36 ford truck cab and the lower hinges are loose from the body.
    I cant see in there and cant tell whats wrong.
    The bolts are tight, the pins are snug, the body is shimmed.
    It's the body side of the hinge not being held securely to the body by the bolts.

    Thanks.
     
  2. Maybe the hinges loose on a bench ?
    Do the bolts thread into the hinge?

    The blots are tight & held fast to the body- they don't move. And are threaded into something.
    But The hinge moves and independent of the fixed bolts.
    This leads me to believe the bolts aren't holding the hinge like they should be.
     
  3. Bump for tomorrow's side project
     
  4. I'll look at my 37 tomorrow if I can make it out to the garage. Try to let you know tomorrow if nobody else chimes in.
     
  5. Sunday Sunday Sunday
     
  6. Glare ice out there, can't even walk out there. Waiting for my neighbor to come with his sander.
     
  7. Bolts are roughly 2 and a half inches long. They go through the a pillar and hinge and thread onto a nut on the backside. I don't know if they are welded to the backside or not.
     
  8. So there's no threads in the hinge itself ?
     
  9. I've scoured google images until my eyes are bleeding.
    I can't find any pics that I can see any details to.

    You'd think there must be some block or devise on the 2-1/2" bolt that provides the clamping force from the body to the hinge.
     
  10. finn
    Joined: Jan 25, 2006
    Posts: 1,352

    finn
    Member

    I think that there is a loose nut plate which is captured in the pillar. I'll check the cab in my garage if I can unbury it from the clutter that accumulates around it.
     
  11. Not sure but I don't think the hinges are threaded. Don't think the nuts are caged. I think the nets are welded in place. Took some pic s but lost the damn camera somewhere in the snow.
     
  12. Well I guess I'll figure something out.
    Seems there might be a part missing, certainly the idea of what's exactly wrong is missing.
    Perhaps I can channel the spirit of Henry Ford, have some tequila and get an idea. I just can't see in the jamb and really can't just cut it open for access.

    Sorry you lost your camera in the snow.
     
  13. jjjmm56
    Joined: Feb 7, 2009
    Posts: 534

    jjjmm56
    Member
    from FL.

    are you missing the little top hat spacers the bolts go thru?
     

    Attached Files:

  14. No, I see those.
    I don't have the clamping action between the lower hinge and the body.
    Screws are tight but hinge is loose and moves.
     
  15. jjjmm56
    Joined: Feb 7, 2009
    Posts: 534

    jjjmm56
    Member
    from FL.

    Now I remember. On mine the pocket for the hinge was tightened so much the outer plate was distorted. I cut the outer plate of the pocket off and straightend removed the hinge and cleaned the rust from the pocket, welded the outer plate back on and made a shim to fit behind the hinge.
     
  16. Wish I could see in there!!!!
    Are the hinges threaded, where does the holding/clamping force come from?
     
  17. jjjmm56
    Joined: Feb 7, 2009
    Posts: 534

    jjjmm56
    Member
    from FL.

    Hinges are not threaded. Bolts go all the way thru the hinge and post. I'll see if I can get some pic later.
     
  18. jjjmm56
    Joined: Feb 7, 2009
    Posts: 534

    jjjmm56
    Member
    from FL.

    The hinge is sandwhiched between the outer plate and the door piller. The threaded section is part of the inner door piller. Heres a pic of the upper hinge from the back side.
     

    Attached Files:

  19. Well I dug into it a little and still can't see what missing.
    But starting from the jamb working in-
    1-The finished painted jamb - 16 gauge probably
    2- the hinge
    3- some sort of inner jamb 16 ga
    4- 1" + of air space with visable threads on the bolts.
    5- heavy duty inner structure? 14 gauge
    6- nuts on hinge screws. (Pita to get to)

    The drivers side is different
    1- finished jamb
    2 - hinge
    3- inner jamb
    4 nuts

    No air space and much shorter bolts.

    This is passenger side
     

    Attached Files:

    Last edited: Jan 13, 2014
  20. Nuts about 2" away from screw head
     

    Attached Files:

  21. Here's the drivers side. Nuts less than 1/2" away from screw head.
    This hinge is tight
     

    Attached Files:

  22. So if the bolts are supposed to be 2" or so long - What's missing here ?
     
  23. flamedabone
    Joined: Aug 3, 2001
    Posts: 5,587

    flamedabone
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Here is my stock top hinge. (My bottom is not stock and is built differently.) You should have the thin painted outer, followed by a thick plate which is welded to the pillar. Then your air gap, next the firewall side of the pillar, finally, the nut.

    [​IMG]

    This design is a bit goofy in my opinion, that's why I did my bottom differently. It looks like you can use shorter bolts and put the nut right after the plate just like the other side that works, but hard to tell without looking at it in person.

    Hope this helps, -Abone.
     
  24. blue 49
    Joined: Dec 24, 2006
    Posts: 1,992

    blue 49
    Member
    from Iowa

    I'm thinking there was a wavy plate inside the post to keep it from collapseing. Maybe it dropped down the post?

    Blue
     
  25. Yes that helps a lot !!

    Looks like there's a section of steel(possibly an angle or tab) just under the bolt? That must be the pinching mechanism inside the jamb that I'm missing
     
  26. Here's some exploratory surgery.
    With Everything cut out of the way
     

    Attached Files:

  27. so is that a remnant of a spacer around the upper bolt?
     

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