Projects Will this work?

I'm having some issues with my steering box (vega) trying to occupy the same territory as my motor mount. I see CE sells an offset mount but it isn't offset enough. So I'm attempting to make my own and have a couple of concerns. I made it out of 3/16" plate theirs is 1/8". Was thinking of making a little bracket that attaches this mount to the front 2 holes under the water pump just for cheap insurance (sorry for the crude drawing). My biggest concern is the bell housing cracking because there is too much stress. Big difference between supporting the center of the engine and moving the mount to the front. Of course this isn't set in stone yet. I think I can move everything back an inch or so and I may just do it and see how it looks. I know my welding isn't 100% in the pictures. I'm a real big guy and was trying to weld reaching over glass fenders with no brackets on them. I do better when I can reach. I know the bracket isn't pretty (yet) just want to know if it will function okay is all. Okay let the beatings begin. I can take it....

 

Can you run a Hurst type front mount? What are you running for a tranny and bell?

 

Stock 700R4. no not running a Hurst mount.

 

I have done what you are doing on other projects but never that far forward. It will work but does look a little out of place. I will be running a Blown Baby Hemi, front Hurst mount, cast truck bell with a T5 & trans mount, Now you have me wondering about the thing splitting in half ..........................

 

seen worse. next concern the alternator. where it going? up top?

right more loading on trans bellhousing. might want to use standard early mount and make a mount off top rail.

http://www.got-chrome.com/images/product/large/31591_1_.jpg

 

Cant run off the top rail my VIN is there and I'm running a full hood and inner fenders. I'm probably gong to bring it back an inch or so. The bracket is longer then it needs to be so I will be trimming some off the end. Alternator is going up to...I think? Haven't gotten that far yet.

 

I think I can bring back the box and mount about an inch and still be okay with the steering. Here is a look from up top.

 

I don't know what your build is (avatar?) but whatever it is has been done thousands of times without moving the mount. Your SBC must be sitting real low in the frame, trying to save floor space?

It's better to have those steering bars parallel as possible......................

 

Yes my avitar. Its a glass 34 tudor sedan. I have seen hundreds of builds (Pix) and parallel to the ground yes but having the drag link slightly rearward (I thought) was okay.

 

For illustration purposes.

 

Just use a Hurst mount!!!

 

I don't think I can. Too much stress at the bell housing.

 

I think the hurst mounts were original designed to use the early manual bellhousing with additional mounts on the sides of the bellhousings.

Here is more chats about the "hurst styled mount.

http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=256724

with the design you have the loading on the trans is the same as a hurst.
The bracket is just now subjected to different stresses. (block too)

Here is your solution:

http://www.speedwaymotors.com/AFCO-80652-Chevy-Engine-Mounts-Rear,40453.html
and
http://www.speedwaymotors.com/1955-1994-Small-Block-Chevy-Engine-Mount,6725.html

$105 bucks and you can use the biscuits, and mounts you already have....

 

Thanks man! I like the rear & front mount shown here....Got me thinkin.

 

See the thought process was to spread the load from the center of the engine by connecting it to both the side and the brace in the front relieving the stress on the bell housing.

 

Use a motor plate on the back of your motor, but then 1 front mount is best to keep frame twist out of your motor. 1 front mount isn't feasible, so get your front mounts as close together as possible.
I ran into this same thing on an off topic build. I did it like you planned and didn't break any bellhousings. (Pinto into a triumph TR-4) I'm sure Chev v-8 bell is stronger than that Pinto was!

 

By using the plate to move the mounting point that far forward you've actually made it a front mount without the strength of a front mount. I'd use the plates you built to make a mounting bracket that arcs over above the steering box and back down to the frame to clear the box. Just make sure it also clears whatever exhaust you're using also.

 

Move the mounting arm on the engine part up higher on the plate. That will move the pad out. It will also allow the frame part of the mount to be move up for more room for the steering box.


(Nailhead in a stock wheelbase Model A)

Also consider plating the inside of the frame to reinforce it. Previous car of mine (47 Chevy) ripped the side out of the frame, mind you that was with a 502 BB .

Canuck