Great build and bad ass chop....Plus I like your deuce also.....Keep up the great workman ship.....You have some skills for sure.
Need a little input from flathead guys. I understand there were anti-chatter rods used to control the for/aft movement of the engine for a smoother clutch engagement. I have no experience with this problem and don't want any. Will what I have mocked up here do the same job?
I know the later cars with 8ba flatties didn't have them. I don't think you need them, but really that's just my opinion. 3blap.
In theory it should. Sometimes theory bites you in the ass. To be safe it might be good to look at a stock anti-chatter setup and see if you can duplicate it "just in case" your setup comes up wanting. Frank
Thanks for the comments. I can't run the original style chatter rods. I'm running the exhaust inside the frame so there isn't any room in the trans/bellhousing area. This was the best I could come up with and was thinking there might be a better idea out there.
The reason the later cars with 8BAs and such don't have the anti chatter rods is that they did away with the torque tube rear suspension. The anti Chatter rods weren't there to counteract the forces of the clutch thrown in and out as they were to control the forward and aft movement imposed by the rear suspension's up and down movement. What you have should be fine, but I would suggest that if you are doing an open driveline that it may not be needed in the strictest sense of the word.
Did you make the steel b-pillars? Any pics by chance? I am going to reinstall the stock hinges on my 3w, so just curious how you went about this... Sam
Sam These were in the car when I bought it. I think they were made by Don Smart. They fit very well. You have to weld the Q panels to the post as opposed to the little nails. Of course the hinge covers conceal everything. I tried to load up a pic I have but it kept telling me "upload Failed". Sorry
I'm full of opinions! No, but more seriously, I don't know that I've seen a hot rod with the rods. I'm running an 8ba 3spd in a model A, and sometimes the clutch chatters, but it's not real bad. I also pulled that clutch & disk out of a parts car driveline & slapped it in! I too would like to see pics of your B pillar if you can make the pics work at some point! I just picked up a '33 3W that I'm gonna need to do this to! I need hinges first... if anyone has any... Car looks great! Keep up the good work! 3blap.
Ok... that makes sense. I'm running an open driveline in my A. My next car is getting a torque tube though... 3blap.
I think the chatter is caused by the biscuit style motor mounts allowing the engine to move forward and back when pushed by the clutch release. My brother has a Y-block with a later 4-speed in his Model A, and he built his own motor mounts using old Ford biscuits. He gets some chatter every now and then. Is it the biscuits? Don't know for sure.
I had my clutch linkage set up and when I pushed the pedal down you could see the engine move forward slightly. I think that needs to be eliminated. If you are going unchopped, I can let you have my upper hinges. Or you could go upper and lower hinges with a chop and eliminate the center one. That way you only need to locate the lower hinge.
Biscuits are quick and easy set up- but they allow movement, especially fore and aft with mechanical clutch linkage.
Man... I'd appreciate it, but it's already chopped 5", and the top hinge has been eliminated. So I don't see any need for yours. Thanks though! 3blap.
Took a couple pic's of the pillars. As you can see I'm in the process of fitting a rollbar so don't confuse those tubes with the B pillar. I will be tying the roll bar in with the B pillars. Should make for a very rigid body and solid door hinge assy. The short sections are the ones that were cut off for the chop.
Those B pillars look very nice. I'd love to get a hold of a pair of those! I have the original wood for mine, but I too would like it to be solid without the chance of sag and flex. So... I just looked back at the beginning of your thread to see if you mentioned how much you chopped it (because short term memory loss had already kicked in) and I noticed that the direction you're taking this car is the same direction I had envisioned with the one I just bought! On Monday, my V8 60 axle showed up! Mine is chopped 5", but yours looks pretty DAMN good! The chop on mine isn't finished, I could wack it some more. But, I'm also going to run a flatty, maybe a blown flatty. I have a 4-71 wanting to go to work! You're years ahead of me and I have a '32 5 window I have to put back together before I can really start spending tons of money & time on the '33. Soooo... I will be following this build closer than I originally planned! I'm assuming that you're planning to drive this on the street, right? I'm just concerned about being able to see well enough to drive it safely. Keep posting inspirational pics! 3blap.
Yeah... I think I was over thinking it. I was looking at the hinges on another 3W thread and that top hinge has an awkward shape to it because the slope of the door top. I'm used to looking at model A hinges & had that in my mind. I put up a 'wanted ad' and I think I've found a set! Problem averted! Thanks again though! 3blap.
On your chop, did you stretch or split your roof? I didn't see that you did, but just nailing down the facts! Do you have any pictures of the work you did to your A pillars to get them to line up? 3blap.
I didn't split the roof. Thats the whole idea of the laid back W/S. The roof stays one piece and the A pillars are laid back as the roof moves down and back. My A pillars were damaged when the shed fell in on the car and were repaired using pieces of the wrong size parts so you don't want to go by what I am having to do,(not done yet). If you have good A pillars your way ahead of me. Back in the 70's I chopped a cherry 34 3W the same way I'm doing this one. It took about a week to complete and I had no idea what I was doing. On that one I just bent the lower A pillar back instead of cutting the cowl across in front of the W/S. The windshield never sealed very well at the bottom. Hope this all makes sense.
Have a rental house that needed work, (pain in the ass). Back to the 34 again today. I have the tube below the trunk panel temp mounted and the push bar in as well. Not sure I like the push bar tube diameter at 1 1/4", might change it to 1". Also welded the roll bar in and the "B" pillars to it. The body is now very solid. I'm not sure I need a diagonal bar, that's on the maybe list.
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