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Technical 8BA to 39 Box question

Discussion in 'Traditional Hot Rods' started by FoxMulder, Jan 22, 2014.

  1. FoxMulder
    Joined: Aug 6, 2013
    Posts: 18

    FoxMulder
    Member
    from Australia

    My 36 Coupe is about to get its 8BA and 39 Box back. I followed the advice on many posts and found an 8BA flywheel to replace my aluminium flywheel that had the starter plate modified and some bolts shaved on the block to make it fit and that is what I think was causing the shifting problems. The 8BA flywheel has been drilled for my early style 10" clutch and pressure plate, but I now discover that the bellhousing and starter plate is 48-52 Truck equipment. I know that much of this gear was interchangeable at the time but is this likely to give me any starter issues. Other observations also appreciated. I don't want to put the drivetrain back together unless I know it's going to work. So that's 8BA to 48-52 Truck bellhousing and starter plate, then 8BA Flywheel drilled to take the 10" clutch and pressure plate to suit my 39 box.
    Thanks from Downunder:)
     
  2. thunderbirdesq
    Joined: Feb 15, 2006
    Posts: 7,091

    thunderbirdesq
    Member

    That bell and starter plate is what you need to make that combo work. The only thing to watch out for is the late starter plates from cars with auto trans were angled slightly in the starter mounting area.
     
  3. Hnstray
    Joined: Aug 23, 2009
    Posts: 12,357

    Hnstray
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from Quincy, IL


    I have no experience with the automatic equipped flatheads, but the Ford 8BA manual shift cars, '49 thru '51 at least, have the stamped steel bell with the lower portion angled and use the corresponding angled starter plate.

    I have had a few cast iron pickup bells and the were all parallel (not angled). It is easy to overlook the angle if not aware of it, but easy to see the difference if looking for it.

    There was a thread a couple of years ago with an excellent series of photos identifying all the Ford/Merc bells, V8 & 6. IIRC, V8 Bob may have posted that.
     
  4. FoxMulder
    Joined: Aug 6, 2013
    Posts: 18

    FoxMulder
    Member
    from Australia

    Thanks for that.
    I thought I had a dust seal to suit that 8RT starter plate but turns out I ordered the seal with the smaller diameter to suit the 8BA bell housing and starter plate.
    I see now that there is a metal retainer plate and seal that I can buy to suit the 8RT starter plate, one that fits between the starter plate and the oil pan and has 2 long screws through it that run vertically and tie the dust seal retainer to the block, It looks like it uses the 2 bolt holes for the pan either side of the rear engine seal. Do I go to the trouble of bringing one of these retainers and seals down under or do I forget the dust seal entirely. The car wont be off sealed roads and will be doing limited miles.
    Advice appreciated.
     
  5. walter
    Joined: Nov 4, 2007
    Posts: 635

    walter
    Member

    The best combonation is cast hogs head and matching starter plate with 49 Merc fly wheel, clutch and presure plate. This combo works. Lots of info on VanPelt web site.
    Walter
     
  6. thunderbirdesq
    Joined: Feb 15, 2006
    Posts: 7,091

    thunderbirdesq
    Member

    If you already had it, I would say use it, but if it's going to be a pain I wouldn't worry about the seal too much, especially for your intended use. I assume this "overkill" type seal was used on trucks because they were meant to encounter very harsh/dirty/dusty/muddy conditions on a regular basis.
     

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