I recently replaced the driveshaft center support on my '60 El Camino with a NOS made in USA part I got from a friend. It still seemed pretty 'cheesy' and I think the rubber has come away from the cage allowing the driveshaft to move around. I'm thinking about upgrading to a heavy duty support like this: http://www.lategreatchevy.com/full-size-chevy-driveshaft-support-bearing-heavy-duty-1958-1964.html Has anyone used one of these and got any feedback on whether they're worth the money? Also wanted to check I was using the correct installation method - I had the car on jackstands (all the way round so it was sitting level) with the weight on the suspension while I tightened up the center support. I had to pull the driveshaft back to connect it to the rear end.
Should 'new now' read 'new nos'? If so that's what I used previously. I've also read about people filling up the stock support with rtv - has anyone tried this and what were the results? I assume you peal back the rubber, pump the rtv in and then push the rubber back into the support? The support was the last thing I tightened down when I installed the driveshaft.
Steele Rubber Products should be able to re-vulcanize your support. I had a couple done for my 60 Pontiac..
Buy a BRAND NEW HEAVY DUTY CURRENT PRODUCTION support bearing. It is one of the best investments you can make!
I'd recommend going with a heavy duty one..... at one time I had a 60 Impala with hydraulics in it and it shredded the bearing quite frequently, then I used one of the heavy duty ones in the link above never had any more trouble. I think if you keep using old ones (NOS) you will keep having trouble as the rubber is probably dry rotting from sitting around. Good luck
You had the jack stands under the rear suspension when you tightened the carrier bearing (sama as if it were sitting on the ground)? Just want to make sure I read that right. I'm about to buy the high dollar bearing and am also looking at the telescopic rear drive shaft. I'm wondering if having the telescoping rear would negate the need for the stiffer bearing since the play would then be accomplished with the driveshaft.....
You might mention whether your car is lowered, or bagged, or on hydraulics...seems these cars have more trouble than cars that sit at stock height. then there's the issue of they don't make replacement parts like they used to.
the purpose of center support bearings is to provide a mount with low resonant frequency so the driveshaft rpm is always higher. But driveshafts start from zero rpm and resonant frequencies less than zero are hard to come by. The solution usually chosen is a VERY soft rubber mount. Stiffening the mount raises the resonant frequency. The result can be increased vibration when accelerating hard at low speeds, especially if the driveshaft angles are a little big, or a u-joint is stiff or bound up.
The one in the picture is made by inland empire driveline. I've not run one, but have held it, and it is definately as solid as it looks. The parts store ones have always looked cheesy to me, back in the 90's, and now, however the only failure i've had has been to mis handling one while out of the car, not from use. and I have been far from gentle over the years.
Yes, that's correct - I tightened up the u-bolts holding the driveshaft to the rear end then tightened the carrier bearing bolt holes.
It's stock ride height - maybe sagging slightly although it looks pretty high to me - you saw it at Donut Derelicts when you stopped by in the Suburban for the Bangshift meetup.
Not bothered about a bit of increased vibration, just don't want the driveshaft flopping around. Driveshaft angles don't look excessive and the car is stock height, UJs are all new too. Any thoughts on filling the voids on the stock carrier with RTV?
Oh yeah...I remember! I think he means a new, name brand, normal replacement bearing. http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/x,carcode,1422458,parttype,12743 the expensive one, not the cheap one.
I use them on the O/t pick up trucks I serviced ( they do landscape pulling heavy trailers and snow plowing ) , never had one fail , and put one on my D/D and my little brothers 4X4 and he beats the snot out of it . I was replacing the OEm style rubber ones on it almost monthly on his mudder till I talked him into one of these . that was a few years ago
getting thick RTV to cure completely takes a long time. I'd be tempted to cut rubber blocks to fit, then glue them in place since I'd be too impatient to wait even overnite.
I have done all of these on my bagged 59 ElCamino. First I filled a stock carrier bearing with a tube of roofing tar to stiffen it up, worked great although I had to re weld the base shortly after the spot welds cracked, then the stamped housing split (Imported part see below). I picked up a solid carrier off ebay and installed it, worked great at first. Had a local driveshaft shop put a telescoping section on the rear driveshaft (Like the 4X4 guys use) and all my issues from loading the carrier went away. Until the ebay carrier loosening up and vibrated like hell, replaced it with an expensive one from Inland Empire and all is good. If you have a static drop the Inland carrier is what I would recommend.
Thanks everyone, think I'll try roofing tar or rtv first and then order up either a good stock replacement or the poly one if I still have problems. Eventually I want to put a sliding rear section in but it's my daily so I can't afford the downtime at the moment (I'd also like to wait until I swap in a 9" Ford too so i can just get the driveshaft done once)
How long did the roofing tar take to cure? Hoping to pull the driveshaft tonight or tomorrow night, fill the voids and let it cure overnight then refit the following day
On my '64 which is bagged I found a 2wd Explorer shaft circa late 80's and married it to my front half shaft to get the telescopic rear portion. It fit perfectly. I run a stock center bearing and have not had any issues as of yet
That sounds interesting - any pics? Is the Explorer shaft a 2 pc as well with compatible U-joint size so that if fits right onto the Chevy front half and rear axle? Or am I missing something? Thanks
I've got one of the last steel ones that they made. Used them in the past with Big Blocks and never had a failure.
The roofing tar was pretty well set over night, no reason you couldn't install it or run it before it completely sets though. the stuff is thick like silly putty to start with and remains somewhat flexible.
X2 on what flt blk posted...haven't tried the roofing tar, but I've rewelded the housing and base because of cracks. .I would like to get one of those telescoping rear sections. .ive had to replace u joints a couple times.. Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
Great, stopped off at Home Depot at lunch and got a couple of tubes. Probably won't get chance to pull the driveshaft until tomorrow then back on the road Saturday hopefully. And then wait for half price day at Pick Your Part to go hunting an Explorer driveshaft...
I've owned a couple old chevys with that bearing, and the stock one did work for several years at a time.
Check with your local 4X4 shop, it might not be that much to have them install one. I think mine was less than $150 with 3 new Spicer U-Joints and balancing the whole assembly.
I've never used anything to fill up the rubber part. Sounds like a good idea, though. For my 59 BelAir, I used a stamped style bearing support and welded the base up solid where it was spot welded. Also wrapped a piece of 1/8th thick flat steel strap around the upper part of the mount, (from side to side), and welded it solid to the bearing support, and the base. Doing this makes it a tight fit putting the driveshaft in the center of the frame, though. Once the driveshaft is in, there is plenty of clearance, but when sliding the bearing support into the frame center it is a tight fit. My 59 is basically stock height with a Tri-Power 348 and 4 speed. I've never had any problems with this bearing support setup, even with the occasional trip down the 1/4 mile. I did this modification in 1992. Since then, I've had to replace the rubber part once or twice, but never had the steel housing break.
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