http://www.rbmindustrialsupplies.co...-Rost-Off-Ice---400ml-Rust-Removal-Spray.html . you could try this , heat the head and spray the bolt .try out 1 1/4 turn in 1 turn.repeat process over and over.take a break.start over.use 1/4 drive ratchet no extension short reach socket. , go easy.those arp bolts are hard stuff.i wouldnt try to drill without a guide of some sort.special stainless drill bits are available.i would rather strip the thread and helicoil it than drill it though.good luck
Not bustin' your chops 383deuce, I can't imagine anyone thinking stainless hardware for header bolts is a good idea. I avoid stainless for structural usage like the plague. If you want shiny, buy chrome bolts. 31Vicky with a hemi, Most thread locker is heat removable so it doesn't do much around headers, best bet is safety wire or some other mechanical lock on header bolts. Yes I know, pain in the ass!
Those Stage 8 locking header bolts work very well. I have them on my O/T vehicle with headers. Set 'em and forget 'em.
It's unstickied a bunch of stuff for me And removed some really ugly glue off some very expensive cabinets.
WD-40 works okay as a lubricant. I think of it as a "jack of all trades, master of none" type liquid. Go on their website and see their 1,000+ uses for it. It won't work as well as a dedicated lubricant or penetrant, but nevertheless still good to have in your toolbox. WD-40 and duct tape are ALWAYS in my on-the-road toolboxes!
Just so ya know I did run a tap in it a couple of times and blew it out good with airhose. The bad thing about all this was I was just installing the header for mock up of my steering shaft. I was not going to tighten it down. I would never use a SS bolt for the completed build. Sure did not think it would hurt anything for a few hours of mock up....Little did I know. But I am a HAPPY, HAPPY, HAPPY guy now. PS. SS bolt is now in the trash can.
I got a intake manifold bolt set in stainless, you wana try your luck with those now that you know how to fix it??