Technical olds starter wireing question

1950 303 olds engine with new modern starter,these have no ign term on the solenoid to supply distributor with 12v when cranking,how would i wire it to get 12v while cranking . p/s i have a new coil with internal resistor,stock dist w/ points...thanks

 

Can you just change out the solenoid with one that has the extra terminal.

 

Or couldn't you just run one wire from that one terminal on the starter solenoid directly to the coil? After all, it only gets 12v when you turn the key to start. Oh wait....I see you have a coil with internal resistor. If you had the other kind of coil you could do it. It would be easier with a coil with no internal resistance and a ballast resistor.

 

If you have a switch with a spring loaded start circut (off, on, start) run a wire from the start post on the switch to the positive side of the coil.

 

You could wire a Ford style solenoid in. Run a wire from the battery to the ford solenoid cut the wire from the ignition switch to the old solenoid wire the switch end to S term on the Ford unit and the other end to the out put side of the Ford unit. Use the I terminal for the byp***. The Ford solenoid will just trigger the other one.

 

The ignition voltage would keep the starter running. But it could be done with a diode. But rereading your post how will you byp*** the resistor when it's in the coil.

 

yeah thats true...forgot to mention a diode. Things are getting clearer.....just started the second cup of coffee.

 

With an internal resistance coil...I fail to see how one can get any more voltage through the coil during startup than what is there now. Why did you choose internal resistance coil? Not that I am disagreeing with your choice, just wondering what prompted that.

Also, doubt that the extra 'zap' of 12 volts byp***ing on a conventional ballast resistor setup will make any noticeable difference on the average hot rod that is kept in good tune and operated in reasonable ambient temperatures.

An alternative would be to use a Hall effect unit (Pertronix for example) in place of conventional points and using whatever voltage and coil specs they recommend.

 

I believe general motors used a byp*** system on all 12volt cars starting in the early 50s right up to the HEI in the early seventys must be a reason, , im rewiring a car and want to do it right the first time,using an internal resistor coil because I had a new one laying around,and less clutter with extra wires.do they even make a pertronix for a 50 olds?

 

General Motors built the cars for all manner of maintenance and climate conditions. That's why I specifically mentioned temperature and well maintained vehicles not posing a problem. Of course when your Olds engine was new it ran on 6 volts, not 12, and did not have the starter voltage by-p*** to the coil.

If you want to mimic the factory 12 volt setup, fine....no argument from me....but you CHOSE to use a part not compatible with the GM method, i.e. an internal resistor coil.

If that is your goal, change the coil, add a ballast resistor and use a diode to prevent feedback if necessary.

Regarding the Pertronix, I would be very surprised if they did not have a unit that would fit your distributor. But if you explore that route, be sure to specify the distributor and the voltage you intend to operate it on.

 

I'm using one of Tony's reduction starters with no 12v boost provision at all. Have run it through points and Pertronix with no problems starting.

 

have tonys starter also,i guess I run it as is no byp***..thanks guys

 

If you have a problem starting it,do as said above and wire in a 68 Mustang (or equivalent) solenoid.

 

If you use an internal resister coil the byp*** wire serves no purpose.