Technical Banjo rear question

Can I use a 32 torque tube with a later 37 rear? Will it bolt up and can I use 48" radius rods. this is in a 32 frame using a shortened later driveshaft.

 

If I remember correctly, 32 torque tube has a round flange while the later banjos have a star shaped patern.

 

Only the late 32 rear has the star shaped flange. The majority were the round flange like a Model A.

 

I used a 33/34 torque tube with a 36 rear... anything after late 32 has the fluted housing...

 

I meant the 37+ banjos have the star flange.

 

All of the banjo rears starting in late 32 have the same scalloped flange.

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The OP was asking about a 37 axle but, you win.

 

Haha, wasn't trying to win. Just wanted him to know that the majority of 32 torque tubes(round flange) will not work on his 37 rear. The late 32 would bolt on, but there are other concerns. The distance from the center of the diff to the flange changed at some point. What year I can't remember. As such, a late 32 torque tube may not be exactly the correct length when paired with a 37 center. But that brings into the equation the rest of the rear end. What bells? probably 37, what spring? stock 32 rear crossmember or?

 

Got two questions. You mentioned a shortened late 32 drive shaft. Why is this drive shaft shortened ? How can a shortened drive shaft work in a stock torque tube? I am using a shortened late 32 torque tube and a shortened drive shaft with shortened radius rods on a 38 rear in a Model A ch***is. Works for me.

 

32 frame using a shortened later(1940) driveshaft. My '42 torque tube is bent and broke my original '42 driveshaft.

 

Do you mean shorter not shortened.

 

My '42 torque tube was shortened to the size of a '32

 

You'll need to do some measuring to make sure you have it all worked out correctly, but it can be done.

I didn't do this with a car on a '32 frame, but with a Model A frame.

Well, Zach Suhr really did the work, but he was able to get it all to fit and bolt up using the original bolt "boss"/mount spot welded to the torque tube.

 

To many variables. I think you will have to put the rear in and the engine and transmission and fit it all in between . JMHO

 

crazy! I've shortened a bunch of these, always moved the radius rod lug, and never bent a tube welding it back on. Musta really gave 'er the gun, huh? Good to know you figured it out.

I did have an issue once with a '36 tube and a shortened solid shaft making a loud growling/grumbling noise on deceleration/coast. I replaced the torque tube with a later one with the support bearing and it quieted right down.