Dude, with your skills and abilities just BUILD a new chassis. Use 1 1/2" x 3" or 4" rectangular tubing and go for it! You'll have a MUCH stronger frame and it'll be a lot less work than manipulating 80 year old stressed and brittle steel! Go back and look at how my buddy Bob built mine for some inspiration.
Point well taken... However I am trying to utilize as much Henry as possible on this (and my frame albeit old) is in excellent shape. I just don't wish to re-invent the wheel and wish to use simple solutions that may be a little easier... This project is pulling on 3-4 yrs now! Wanna be driving it this summer as I have no other projects in the way... So the questions still stand minus the answer you have alluded to. (Sorry I'm a stubborn bastard!) Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
Bigs mounted... Need to unload em' and mock up the rear end... Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
Question on the front end here... Will the engine/trans weight along with the 4" dropped axle get the job done, or do I need a reverse eye spring also to improve my stance issue? Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
What kind of movement can I get out of these rear bones? I see them usually mounted on the transaxle cover... They seem to be pretty immobile? Other side... Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
It'll come down quite a bit with the weight. A reversed eye spring will drop it another inch, so I'd wait until you're almost done before you make that decision. Chances are you'll want it down another inch though. My '27 T Roadster build: www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t= 734383
On the rear bones, you don't want them moving around... at least on the axle side. Front of the bars would have a pivot point. My '27 T Roadster build: www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t= 734383
Ok cool! Thanks for the response... I'm gonna send my axle to a guy named joe at joes speed shop... Around ur way! He will stretch drop it 4" Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
Yep. This should give you a rough idea. Don't change or shim where your bones mount to the backing plates, let the front ends just end up where they do naturally, then build the mounts to them. Be sure to configure your rear axle with the proper pinion angle. My '27 T Roadster build: www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t= 734383
Do a search on "Splitting rear wishbones" and you will get lots of opinions on both sides of the issue. The reasonable guys will tell you that they should not be split, but should mount together at the front. The guys with a death wish will say split them out to the frame rails.
Yeah cool thanks... Gonna mount em un-split on the bell housing... Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
I agree. I used a Heim joint and mounted it as close as possible to the original location. The rear wish bones you posted wrapped around the axle when I put it in gear at idle. I tried again with the same results and had to make ladder bars. I used black pipe and have subjected them to incredible loads with no problem
Bell housing? no front to bellhousing, rear are nowhere close transaxle?? (from your other post) We dont have transaxles in the old Ford world
Sorry let me clarify... My nomenclature is all over the place... And I didn't understand the reference to the "rear split bones" until a minute ago, as I was confused with the front wishbone. I intend to not split the front wishbone and mount it under the bellhousing of the flathead or there abouts... The reference post above clarifies that I need to mount these rear bones to what I mistakenly referred to as a "transaxle" which I meant to say the tube that covers the drive shaft... That is what lead to my initial question of how can I maneuver these bones to the middle of the frame?? Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
You may have some clearance issues with an un-split front. Hopefully someone will chime in with more knowledge than me. Regarding the rear bones, like Alchemy said, there are arguments on both sides of the fence on this. I am partial to playing it as safe as possible but that didn't jive with the look I wanted. Therefore, Bob made another set of bars that attach to the inside of the split bones to give it more strength. If there were room to make it more like a four bar with upper links that would have been better yet. Always err on the side of safety.
That tube is the torque tube. I have an open driveshaft so I attached my rear wishbones to a transmission crossmember using a very large Heim joint. The rear wishbones wrapped around the rear axle when I put the transmission in gear *at IDLE*. I had to make ladder bars which have been seriously overloaded but have held up
Hmmm... Ladder bars? Will read up on them... In the meantime started some grinding. Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
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