I am considering using an all electric heater in my Stude, but something more powerful than the small cigarette lighter plug-in unit. I would like to get away from the hoses, heater core issues, etc and have found something that looks interesting: Made by DC Thermal, USA manufactured 9" x 5" x 4" aluminum case 2 speed blower 12 volt, 40 amp, 480 watt 8,016 BTU They also make a 50 amp/ 600 watt/ 10,000 BTU unit. Does anyone have experience with either of these units? Any pros or cons or alternatives would be appreciated.
The maker also has units that are 24 volt and higher, and with more BTU output, and those I think are made for big rigs and earth mover type equipment. About my charging system, it doesn't exist at this time. Car is in early stages of construction.
I am sure it would work, it just seems so "inefficient". With the exception of specialty purposes, engine heat is the simplest way to get the job done. I know it may not seem that way but it is. I have a feeling your charging system is going to have to be pretty massive to keep up with the demand. I would guess with the total electrical demand you will be looking at over 150 amp alternators. Those aren't cheap either. Good luck.
look into putting the heated seat units in when you upholster the seats. they don't show, and put the heat where you need it.
I used a 12 volt DC ceramic heater very similar to the photo in my '32 4 door simply because I didn't want to plumb up the hoses on the flathead. They are fairly inexpensive. The heater was marginal at best but you never got warm but you wouldn't freeze to death.
We have used one very much like what HRP pictured. It did warm a little but so little we didn't use it much, sure it put out some heat but minimal. I think it's worth the effort to fit a hot water heater and get the desired results.
Seems to me there's a Toyota truck heater that's electric, and is popular to use in rods. The years, I don't know, and you may not like the import angle. Just a thought. Butch/56sedandelivery.
Interesting website. I have removed all of the heater system in my 55. Only just a few times has this been an issue, generally an issue only of the windshield fogging up in a very cool spring or fall evening. I would think this might be perfect to supply some warm air defrost while keeping the sleek look of no hoses, heater core, etc. Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
Subscribed for interest. This is my issue I am concerned about in the 36 I am building. Not for keeping warm, just defogging during warm muggy rainy days and end of season foggy windows.
I still haven't heard from anyone who has actually used one of these units. I think I will contact the company and ask a few questions. I am a long way from deciding to use one, but I am open to the idea. However, I don't want to create a big headache with highly specialized wiring, huge output alternator, etc. If it's too much of a PITA, I will just put a new heater core and fan in a vintage heater box, plumb up some defrost hoses for the windshield, and go with that. There are some great looking old units out there.
And I doubt that you will; the amount of power needed for the heat output is a poor tradeoff. If you want a pretty good idea of how much heat you'll get, pick up a cheap 1000W hair dryer and run it on low heat; you won't have quite that much.... I wouldn't even try to run one of these with less than a 100 amp alternator and that's assuming the rest of your electrical load is minimal.
I'm interested in this also. My project, I do not want to run a heater either, but would be nice to defrost the windows if needed.
Here's some reviews and some of these people are located in areas that actually get cold weather. Some say is works great, The last review is most interesting as it is negative and covers some technical issues. http://www.amazon.com/DC-THERMAL-SA12-5000-BRUSHLESS-HEATER/product-reviews/B006VZSMYO
from the sounds of it the last guy was using battery banks to use the product not running a engine driven alternator . as the alternator will not slope down .. and also provide 13.6 volts or more , not 12.6 volts which would lower the Btu , also it sounds like he was using a infrared style heater to compair with , those make you feel warmer as it heats the surface but not the air , I thought about using one of these on my car as the defroster/heat system is all over on the 50 ponchos and do not feel like trying to find the defoster /fan parts for underhood , but instead I am looking at adapting over a different heater core for somethign else like a mid 90s chev p/u as its a contained seperate under dash unit .
12V electricity is not suited for producing heat in any significant amount, fine for seats but not for the whole car. If you have the space and money for it, take a look at a diesel/gasolene burning heater such as Ebersprächer or other brands, there are both water heating and air heating units available. Even a small one can produce a few thousand watts of heat and just draw a little current to power the fuel pump and fan.
Then there's the problem of plumbing the fuel supply and exhaust for the unit. Obtaining heat from the coolant is the most efficient way to heat the passenger compartment. It may be worth the trouble to retrofit another heater core, blower motor, etc. Either that or just wear a thick jacket in the cold months.
There is no way a car alternator would power an electric heater big enough to heat a car. If you live in the south, and you don't drive the car much, you might get away with an electric heater/defroster. It would keep the mist off the windows and if you had to pass a safety inspection you could answer "yes" to the question of do you have a heater? I don't see what the objection is to a hot water heater. The new ones are very complicated but they don't have to be. There are lots of old 30s and 40s bolt on box heaters at swap meets.
Do you have any electric heaters in your house? I happen to have one of those little "micro furnace" heaters handy. It is big enough to take the chill off a small bedroom. On the label it says it is a 1500 watt. Find an electric heater, read the watts, and compare it to your 480 watt or 600 watt heater. You will probably find, 480 or 600 watts is enough to keep the mist off the windshield if it does not get too cold. Now look at your alternator. Most are around 100 amps. The heater you are looking at, draws 50 amps. This means you are going to need an alternator 50% bigger than the one you have, to drive a small, lame electric heater. Meanwhile your engine is full of hot water for free. You can put in a heater big enough to give you all the heat you will ever need or want for less cost than a lame - o electric heater.
Agree with Rusty^^^ An under-dash unit is probably the best way out of the OP's dilemma. Just run your two coolant hoses, 12v to the blower motor and boom... instant heat!
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