Projects Recreating the jesse lopez coupe

Agreed Jer. With out a Panhard bar like the 47-48 rear end has to stabalize it Jesse most like used the 2 shock system to A. Stiffen it. and B. Help with any rear end sway.

You said it.
Look at most original Customs and some Hot Rods and you will see things that would make a current day builder cringe.
Same goes for the level of Metal work done then Vs now. A lot more pounding and slicing and welding of original metal to make it fit.
I remember seeing a pic of Sam Barris chopping the top of a model A coupe using a Hacksaw and then an Air Chisel to finish the cut that the Hacksaw couldn't reach. LOL
We have come a long way since then in terms of quality of builds, but you still can't beat the master's for their vision's of how the cars should look.
Torchie.

 

The shackles will only be 2" longer than stock.

Hey guy's, I need some help. I've been trying to find these two items without any luck. I know they're out there. It's the wiper "head" on the pivot shaft that comes up through the cowl. It's the grooved "head" that the wiper arm would push onto to be installed. Also the retainer nuts. What I got from Dennis Carpenter is too big. I need them for both sides. HELP!

 

Jer,
I've got a a set of the splined heads that the wipers push on to. I might have the nuts you need too. I'll have to check. BTW your build has really been an inspiration for me to finish my 46 coupe. Mine is going to look a lot like Snooki's 41 when its done. Any tips on chopping the garnish moldings, or vent windows/
thanks
Matt

 

MATT! (ol' buddy). I made a buck out of 1/4" plate that was the shape for the glass in the vent opening. It has to be double thickness where the vent frame is going to be stressed as it's pulled (while hot) over that shape. This means no chopping and fitting and welding on the vent glass frame. Worked really well. You'll have to cut the ends to fit at the door glass to fit.
The more radical the chop the more work. If your going to paint the garnish moldings you got it made. If your going to chrome them, not so much.

 

Very nice work

 

There's been some rumblings ( grumblings?) about how light-dark this color is. I do wonder when stuff like this happens if the whole thread has been read.
When a person takes on a project like this (historical document), many things have to be considered up front: how much info is available about the prospective car being considered? What is the quality of this info. first hand, second hand, third hand, etc.? If there are no original pictures, I dont think you have a project worthy of the time and expense (enormous in both cases) unless its just a styling exercise in your chosen time period.
If you have access to the original builder (and youre careful), you have an excellent opportunity to capture the original vehicle. It doesnt get better than that. This is what is called objective information. In this case it means youre dealing with facts/info., or conditions without being distorted by (outside) personal feelings, prejudices, or interpretations.
If you dont have access to the original builder, your data falls under the subjective category. That would be interpreted in this case as personal judgments, modified or affected by personal views, experiences, etc.. Sometimes all you have is subjective info, but if objective is available, its the best, most useful and, safe (a huge consideration). For me, at this point in my life, I wouldnt attempt this with just subjective info. I dont think the time and expense is worth it. That is my subjective opinion.
If you are fortunate enough to have access to people that were there, they can be a tremendous help. If you find yourself being moved by the group, you have to be very careful. The group DOES have value and occasionally comes with its own theme songs for background effect. The one that comes to mind at the moment is Tied to the Whipping Post (Allman bros.). IM JUST KIDDING, I LOVE YOU GUYS, and I do think that we are in this together.
So regarding this color issue, I have Jesse (objective) telling me that the spray out cards (post # 1009) that I sent him do represent the correct color (as Obama would say, PERIOD!). When were trying to make comparisons with the blk/white original pics that are available, we have the objective/subjective dynamic on display. We saw this (vividly/tragically) in the chop saga (posts # 622-917). As bad as that was, the REAL tragedy would have been to say OK, OK, you guys just do it and let me know when it's done, and let that happen.
It will be entertaining (and a must) to try and duplicate those blk/white poses. What we may see wont change the fact that this is the correct color. It will be another look at the primitive photo equipment that was used back in the day, and their limitations. The original pics are important and valuable. They do have the ability to send you, and your project over the cliff, however. They can be used for inspiration, BUT NEVER FOR TECHNICAL INSTRUCTION.
Hey, in 10-20 years none of this will matter. All the guy's that were there will be gone and it will ALL be subjective.

Original pic Rik Hoving

 

Excersize in B&W.... this is the reason it looks dark in one photo and light in others. The difference in photographers, processors, paper.... they could all greatly change the photo. The same with monitors... I have 2 that I use to compare artwork I do for web sites and even at that, what I see isn't what the customer or anyone else sees.

 

X's -2 ^^^
If Jesse told you it is the right color. Nothing anyone else says has any merit IMHO Jer.
Trying to base a color on a B+W photo or even an old color photo is a waste of time. To many variables envolved.
And add to that the fact that everyones computer shows the color differently......
My wife is a glass artist and I can't even begin to tell you what she goes thru to get good pics that show the objects true colors.
Carry on Jer. You are closing in on it.
Torchie.

 

You heard it from the Jesse, the color is right... Looks perfect ... enough said... looking good !

 

Careful consideration with a fresh minded Jesse - the closest you'll ever get.

Photos never tells the whole story. No picture is exactly as the other anyway.

 

Your attention to even the smallest detail is amazing, love your thread. keep on, Jerry, was and is a pleasure to follow your build...

Carsten

 

Fantastic! Carry on sir.

 

Well, I've been fighting a starter that won't work. I'll see if I have to ask the trim guy's if they will push this thing around.

 

Well ,you know what they say? F O R D =fix or repair daily.....

 

Starting to thinking modernly around traditional issues faced back in the day. I've always wondered where to draw the line. Do you improve the suspension and handling to closer modern day specs or do you perform the same hack job that was performed back then so the build is an exact copy?

 

Great question. This is something that I haven't had to deal with so far because I'm doing recreation's, instead of resto's. If it came up I would probably want to clean things up and make sure everything was safe.

To see this type of thing dealt with see Palle's resto of the Jack Stewart Ford.

 

The buggy sprung 1941 Fords with 6 inch shackles in the rear without a sway bar were dangerous handling in accelerated right and left turns. That may have added to the demise of the original Jesse Lopez Coupe.

 

Very good point there..... A watts linkage could be added to prevent that, I doubt anyone would be able to see it tucked up ender there someplace.

 

Hey Jerry,the exhaust.....are you dumpin git out the rear like the original?

 

I think so but, the primary purpose will be the exhaust gasses. It will be one of the last things on the list. It will have to snake around those shocks that aren't exactly nailed down yet.

 

You are one busy guy doing this one and updating the other at the same time. Pretty good rate for an old guy.

 

Thanks everybody for the kind words. If things go well tomorrow, I'll get my rebuilt starter. Chris (trim shop) said that if I would bring it in Monday he would plan for it. This was on Monday last.

 

Way to go Jer! Those darn starters! Lol Happy Friday !

 

Jer you think the car is going to make Roundup?


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The starter didn't get rebuilt for the trim shop date on Monday. It looks like they will push it around so I will prepare for it this weekend.

I don't think LSRU is doable.

 

Well, I need to check in. It's too risky (Weather) to try for the trim shop till Wednesday. I've misplaced my camera, so until I find it...

Matt (46fatford) did his best but, he was unable to find those wiper parts I need. I appreciate the effort. It looks like '41 Ford exclusively for correct parts. Does any body have?

 

We're in business. I went for an errand and found the roads clear and dry. I had these trim shop pics from a while ago. Mom used her camera for the load/delivery.

 

Well, now I need MORE help. The wiper parts are still needed plus, I need 12V headlights that will fit in my stock retainers. No luck at Auto zone, O' Rielly.

 

Jer,

Is the problem with the diameter of modern replacements being too small? I have gathered up the larger 12V lamps whenever I spotted them at salvage places. Some '55s and most all '56s and '57s had the big high/lows in 12V. I know there are folks making new ones for the restoration guys too. Of course if I'm missing the problem..

-Dave

 

May be a bit too late, but this company repops the mid-50s through 70s Guide T-3 sealed beams:

http://www.lectriclimited.com/lighting_fuse_sets.htm

They should fit the old rings just fine. I found some new-production incandecent sealed beams on eBay a while back, and that's what I'm using in my original Guide assemblys on my Model A.