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1929 model a getting no power

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Mopar4Life64, Mar 2, 2014.

  1. Mopar4Life64
    Joined: Dec 9, 2013
    Posts: 34

    Mopar4Life64
    Member
    from Shreve

    I have a 29 model A all original that is not getting any power. No lights, or horn and also won't crank. The only power I'm getting is to the dash light but it's dem. I drove the car all day yesterday then I went to move it I had nothing. Any ideas? I check battery wires and everything seemed to be good

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  2. themoose
    Joined: Dec 7, 2008
    Posts: 9,725

    themoose
    Member

    It's a pretty simple system.Not too much to check. You say you checked the battery wires but did you check the battery as well?

    [​IMG]
     
  3. scrap metal 48
    Joined: Sep 6, 2009
    Posts: 6,128

    scrap metal 48
    Member

    Time for a V8 update.. Sounds like old battery or loose or corroded battery cables...
     
  4. lrs30
    Joined: Jan 30, 2007
    Posts: 2,214

    lrs30
    Member
    from Kentucky

    Check your grounds!


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  5. Mopar4Life64
    Joined: Dec 9, 2013
    Posts: 34

    Mopar4Life64
    Member
    from Shreve

    Battery is brand new. I'll have to check everything when it gets warmer out

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  6. spooler41
    Joined: Feb 25, 2007
    Posts: 1,099

    spooler41
    Member

    If it ran most of the day, you may have a bad generator cut out. This would allow the battery to discharge. Check the charging system if you don't find any wiring or grounding problems.

    ...................Jack
     
  7. Garry Carter
    Joined: Mar 11, 2002
    Posts: 575

    Garry Carter
    Member

    I tend to be of the "poor ground" school of thought on this one. To function properly, your electrical system should have 3 grounds: 1) battery to frame; 2) engine to frame; and 3) engine to body.
     
  8. unkledaddy
    Joined: Jul 21, 2006
    Posts: 2,865

    unkledaddy
    Member

  9. First put a battery charger on the battery for 24 hours and see if the problem goes away. If it does then you need to find out what caused it (generator bad, brake light stuck on?). If it starts with the charged battery, and you can't identify the problem, with everything turned off, remove the battery cable and touch it to the post and see if there is a spark which means there is a current drain somewhere. Most places will test a battery free (they hope to sell you one) so keep that in mind (be sure to take it to them in a charged condition, if it won't take a charge you have found your problem). Post what you find for further advice. This would be an excellent question for fordbarn.com.

    Charlie Stephens
     
    Last edited: Mar 3, 2014
  10. Unfortunately in modern times "brand new" doesn't always equate to good. Charge it up and take it back to the place you bought it and have it tested. As you are probably well aware cold weather may contribute to the problem (actually I am basing this on what I have been told, living in Southern California I don't have any personal experience with cold).

    Charlie Stephens
     
  11. FORDY 6
    Joined: Oct 8, 2002
    Posts: 1,570

    FORDY 6
    Member

    An old timer told me to ground the battery on the transmission...I did and haven't had a problem yet.
     
  12. Mopar4Life64
    Joined: Dec 9, 2013
    Posts: 34

    Mopar4Life64
    Member
    from Shreve

    Ok thanks guys I'll check it out when it gets warmer out. It done it to me once before when I first got the car but can't remember what I did to fix it. Lol

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  13. Mr48chev
    Joined: Dec 28, 2007
    Posts: 35,977

    Mr48chev
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Mostly good advice with one clown in the mix.

    I'd so as suggested.
    First charge the battery overnight

    Second check all of the grounds and electrical connections in the main circuits at least. There may be just enough corrosion in one or more connections to cause enough resistance to keep the electrons from flowing. Start at both battery connections and work your way out both ways. Make sure that you have a good ground on the end of the ground wire to the block and then go connection by connection on the other side checking for looseness and corrosion as you go and checking the wires for any suspect connections in the middle of the wire where they may have been patched together.

    Check to make sure that it actually is charging once you get it fired up again. That little banger doesn't draw much juice to run and will run a long time just off the battery without it charging and especially if you don't shut it off and restart it a number of times or aren't driving with the lights on.
     
  14. ROADSTER1927
    Joined: Feb 14, 2009
    Posts: 3,286

    ROADSTER1927
    Member

    Charge the battery first, but remove one cable or the battery while charging.
     
  15. Mopar4Life64
    Joined: Dec 9, 2013
    Posts: 34

    Mopar4Life64
    Member
    from Shreve

    Ok thanks guys. I'm sure that it is something simple.

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  16. lrs30
    Joined: Jan 30, 2007
    Posts: 2,214

    lrs30
    Member
    from Kentucky

    On my 31 I Had a stcky brake pedal that caused the brake light to stay on.


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  17. Mopar4Life64
    Joined: Dec 9, 2013
    Posts: 34

    Mopar4Life64
    Member
    from Shreve

    Ok I put the battery on charge and now have power again. How will I know if the generator is working? Any easy way of checking or is it like regular cars and just pull a battery cable off and if it stays running then it's good?

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  18. lrs30
    Joined: Jan 30, 2007
    Posts: 2,214

    lrs30
    Member
    from Kentucky

    Grab a digital multi-meter and put the probes on the posts of the battery and see what the voltage is before
    You start it, start it and see where it is after at idle and then rev it up it should jump up to I think 8 if your talking stock
    Set up


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  19. lrs30
    Joined: Jan 30, 2007
    Posts: 2,214

    lrs30
    Member
    from Kentucky

    It's been a few years since I had my banger so my voltage may be wrong but I think that's what I had and it always held a charge


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  20. I ground the battery to the frame as it was originally and then run an additional cable from that point to the flywheel housing right next to the starter (the transmission would probably work as well). You can't have too many and too good of grounds on a 6 volt system.

    Charlie Stephens
     
  21. prewarcars4me
    Joined: Mar 22, 2010
    Posts: 4,077

    prewarcars4me
    Member
    from Bhc, AZ

    I always run my ground to the engine or trans, then a jumper to frame/body. The biggest draw is always going to be the starter, so why not give it the best ground it can get?
     

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