Does anyone know how to check to see how much of a stall is in a torque converter without installing it........
Can't be done unless you cut it apart and recognize what you see because you build torque converters for a living. Or it's a stocker and you know what it came in. Or if there's a brand name and model number on a sticker or more likely sharpie- my Coan had it's info written on it in sharpie. Smaller diameter converters are looser- how big is it?
If it's an OEM converter, there may be some ID marks on it. If there are ribs on the outside of the shell, the steeper the angle, the higher the stall.
Anyway, the stall changes based on the amount of torque you put in front if it. I gave up trying to understand all of it- it's a black art. I found some fantastic converter guys- I tell them how I want the converter to act. They ask me a few simple basic questions and the honest TQ and HP of the engine. Next thing I know I have a converter ready to pick up that works pretty much exactly how I asked for it. I asked these guys about what their process and told me it was a black art and if they taught me - well you know the rest.
Sorry to jack your thread but I have an unknown stall 10" converter in a th400 right now (not currently driving). My buddy told me that 10" converters have a minimal stall of 2500? Is this correct or is he full of it? Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
Wrong lots of thing enter into stall speed,traction,big or small block, weight and so on .We used to run vega converter in small blocks and big block,they stall 25 to 2800 with a small block,but not in a 4 cylinder Vega
Well I probably won't cut it apart and even if I did I wouldn't know what I was looking at......I'll look for a number or sharpie mark on it tomorrow and I'll find out what size it is. Yes I do think it is strange. You think they would mark it with something Don't think you jacked the thread cause it was also a good question too
GM RWD Torque Converters Starting 1980-up, GM used a 4-digit ID sticker located on the converter body to help identify it. Below is a guide to help decipher it's meaning. 1st Digit (application trans) B -- THM250C, THM350C C -- 200C, 2004R, Pre-1984 1/2: 325-4L & 700r4 D -- 1984 1/2-up 700r4, 4L60, 4L60-E 2nd Digit (approx stall, depends on engine) B -- 2025 rpm C -- 2075 rpm E -- 1654 rpm F -- 1611 rpm G -- 1397 rpm H -- 1397 rpm K -- 1211 rpm L -- 1654 rpm 3rd Digit (Clutch Assembly) 3 -- Poppet Valve 7 -- Poppet Valve 9 -- Poppet Valve A -- Red (pre-96) A -- Carbon (96-up) B -- Static Open G -- Carbon Fiber H -- Red (pre-96) H -- Carbon (96-97) H -- Woven Graphite (98-up) L -- Carbon Fiber N -- Woven Graphite P -- Woven Graphite 4th Digit (Body Mounting) C -- 3 round lugs, gas engine D -- 3 round lugs, diesel engine E -- 6 round lugs, gas or diesel F -- 3 square pads, gas or diesel G -- 3 square pads, gas or diesel If there is no ID tag, there might be a number or letter stamped between the dimples of the impeller on the converter body. 4 -- 1211 stall 5 -- Medium or high stall (depends on stator) 6 -- 1397 stall 7 -- 1654 stall C -- 2075 stall H -- 1397 stall K -- 1211 stall L -- 1654 stall
we ran vega torque behind sbc chevy's and pinto c3 torque in c4 trans behind sbf they worked better than so-called 3500 chinese one size fits all.
That's all fine if it's never touched. One of my cars had a stock converter- sent it out, had them cut it apart & bump the stall to 2400. Diameter & ID doesn't always tell the whole story.
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