Nobody has mentioned that the way you have your spring "hanging" with the weight of axle and the bones pulling the arch down isn't helping. Jack the axle up in the middle. Then take that block of wood out and move the jackstands under the axle ends. It might look a lot different.
even with the axle on stands and the weight of the frame on it, i don't think that'll change that spring. that thing is crazy!
Oh for the good old days when this silliness wasn't a problem! You just got a stock Model A spring, used from a swap meet or new from A parts dealer, stock or reversed eyes, pulled a few leaves, added a couple back in, spread ir it, hooked up the shackles and you were done. No high arch, low arch, street freak description **** just a stock part to modify a bit and use. Same thing out back where the "Hot" spring was the stock A roadster spring which IS available new today from Snyder's in New Springfield OH. Unlike the Coupe, Tudor, and Fordor springs of 12-14 leaf counts so often used today under light weight cars, the roadster springs are only 7 leaves and made for the lighter car and have a lower arch as well.
I agree, the arch of that particular spring is REALLY high. Here is a picture of my Posies spring, also hanging with no support under it, and you can see how it isn't as arched as the one the OP posted. Don And you can see in this picture of the bare spring how much less of an arch it has.
Ill bet nobody mentioned it because its not going to be enough to fix the issue. Yeah it will change, similar to how ******* in the ocean changes the amount of water.
As mentioned, that spring has excessive arch in it for most peoples taste...me included. If your fussy ablout ride height, you'll most likely tweak any spring you buy somewhat. Posie springs are probably the most consistent right out of the box, but I have tweaked them as well. Here's a couple of more pics from my current project for reference. They show the spring pack at 3" (after some tweaking) and installed with weight on it. Your Speedway spring with a 4 3/4 inch free arch is way up there. And hanging with no weight on it is pulling it down to 6. Not sure of the look you're going for but Vonmerkin's pic is what you'll end up with. And get some weight on that spring!
You are not going to know until you get weight on the front end, right now the axle and spring is hanging!
I did as flthd31 suggested and set it on jack stands to put some weight on it and it took it from a 6 inch gap to just under 5. I sat on the the front cross member (I'm a BIG boy) and dropped it even more. So I think the best thing to do is wait till I get the stock banger and other items reinstalled to see where it ends up. Thanks for all the input!
Hey we can set you up with the proper spring. give us a call down here at Gambino Kustoms. 408 479 4812 Rick
It doesn't matter if you put 2 tons on that spring, once the shackles hit the perches, it won't get any flatter if you put 2 more tons on it. It's the length of the spring & not eye to eye but measured along the curve. As if it was flat.
You could weld or bolt on the bones, set the axle on the ground and shim the ends so it won't rock back and forth. Lay some 4x4s across the frame and pile on about 1000# and take a picture. It may be what you want, then again mabey not....
OK, I'm pretty confused by some of the replies here. I've set up a ch***is or two and I have never seen a Ford or aftermarket axle with any caster built into it and have never heard of anyone who drops them adding caster as well. The only way I know of to get the correct caster with Split bones is to either v-cut or raising or lowering the frame mount end. I never set caster without the frame setting at ride height with the wheels and tires that are going to be used on the car. Please tell me if I'm wrong, but I've put a lot of miles on these cars! Mick
Those guys told you already, didnt they ? It's not what you don't know that will get you into trouble, it's what you know for sure that just ain't so
Yeah Mick, I don't think bending the axle to fix caster is the correct method. It should be set by the locating bars (wishbones, hairpins, 4-bar, whatever).
In reply to the first post, yes the bracket shown places the end of the bones WAY below the frame rail. We had the same situation on our 32 frame. We used split A bone and most of the caster came from our slanted front cross member. We used a low slider front spring on a 4" dropped axle which seemed to have just the right drop for us. Put the front end together with engine, tires and all weight on the ground. When all looked good, camber checked and all, the wish bone ends were a good 6 inches below the frame rail - like in your pic. We sliced the bones (from the bottom up about 3/4 up) just behind the front mounts and bent them up to about 1 "inch below the bottom of the frame rail and welded it back up. Used a short piece of 3" angle iron to make the side mounts. One side was welded directly to the bottom of the frame rail with the other side facing outward where we drilled and attached a tie rod end bung. Shaped the side of the bracket for a 'streamilned" effect. Ended up looking clean and neat. Works good for us...
Well I just had one done in Cali and had castor added. The A bones already have castor, just not enough. If you want the bones mounted close to the frame you might need to pie cut. But you can add a few degrees on the axle. On another note, castor angle on the front crossmember only sets the spring angle correctly. It's the bones and axle which have the definitive castor. Twitter @edsrodshop
From everything i've heard, read and experienced first hand.. when people drop axles they also set the CAMBER angle.. to set the caster angle more, you'd have to twist the axle ends itself. As others have said, and i'll say it again.. get yourself a stock model a spring.. have a spring shop reverse the main eye and you'll be well on your way. If you are using model a wishbones, you can use later ones that not only are longer and more preferred, but they also have more caster built into the perch at the front of the bone.
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