Projects SBF Gurus Input Appreciated

You may want to visit this site: http://www.fordmuscle.com/ They have tons of info available from budget DIY to hard core performance the membership fee is worth it.

 

I got the info back on the block and it came out at 10 10 on the crank and the block 20. I got everything ordered and I am ending up going with the e303 cam and lifter set previously recomended. I have just enough money to do a good job on the bottom end and currently I am constrained by this next week is spring break from college so in that time I hope to get the block together and in as well as the aod swap figured out.
Running total so far is $718 : $438 on bottom end parts and $280 on cam and lifters.
waiting on total for machine work but probably around $500.
Hopefully this will be good for someone in the future so I will continue updating with information as I progress through the stages of the build.
The home porting is something I will give a shot if I get the time. There was an excellent article posted earlier I believe for tech week that I have read and can follow.

 

You aren't planning on using the lifters in the motor already?

Do you have the spider and dogbones or did you buy link-bar lifters?

 

Good point Tyler.That motor should have good lifters in it that might just require wiping them down and re-using them.
Ford's roller lifters are really high quality,and unlike solid or hydraulic flat tappet lifters,they can be swapped from cam to cam with no bad juju,and they last forever if the oil is clean.

Could save you over a hundred bucks

Scott


Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!

 

The guy that did that porting article is an incredibly sexy beast.
Follow his lead and you will make ridiculous horsepower and everyone will want to be your friend.

Yes,it was me....

Scott


Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!

 

If you want some cheap "bang for the buck" grab these:https://losangeles.craigslist.org/sgv/pts/4389042165.html So what would you gain? A nice boost in compression, and adjustable valves:http://www.mre-books.com/interchange/interchange5.html EZ way to gain some flow is this:http://www.ebay.com/itm/1-84-1-5-In...Parts_Accessories&hash=item1c3b85f2b1&vxp=mtr No sense spending money on the heads you have now you can install these while you are getting the valve job.If you get better heads later you can use these on both:http://www.ebay.com/itm/Ford-Small-...Parts_Accessories&hash=item5afd37419d&vxp=mtr

 

This would be the reason I dont plan to reuse the lifters. The block was stock roller so I have the parts but with this kind of pitting on the lifters I dont feel safe reusing any of the lifters, even if to the eye one or two of them may be reusable, in a new block even if it would save a few bucks. Every time I half ass something I regret it seeing as this will be the 5th time a motor has gone in my ranchero in the under 2 years I have owned it and the aod will be the 3rd trans. My luck is non exsistant when it comes to engines and cars.
Scott your article is phenomenal.
Jeff again thanks for the links.
My thoughts are when I can get a set of afr 165 heads such as these http://losangeles.craigslist.org/lac/pts/4413422206.html with 1.6 rr and valve covers for $900 why bother even looking at the stock heads. Though I cant afford them atm if one or more of my projects sell I will be able to and I would be much further ahead.

 

First,thanks for the kind words.I would have liked to do a little more refined job,but I whipped up that entire article from beginning to end in about two hours!lol!

I forgot that your cam was so roached!Yeah,new lifters are the only choice in that situation.

I'm really looking forward to seeing you get this motor together.

Definitely spring for the ARP rod bolts and oil pump driveshaft.
And don't hesitate to ask for help on here if you get stuck or have a question.There are some really great guys on here who are eager to help whenever they can.
Also,if you have a crusty old local guy who has a background racing Fords,drop in and pick his brain for a while.Old Ford guys love to help out a young Ford guy with an engine project.

Scott


Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!

 

I am very lucky to have a retired ford technician from the 50s and 60s as well as a transmission guy from LA during 50s that I just recently met who are able to provide some incredible and specific information. Being a kid and having the internet and HAMB available puts me at such an advantage for finding information as compared to trying to do anything even just 15 years ago.
I did indeed purchase ARP main studs, rod bolts, and oil pump drive shaft as I prefer the bottom end to hold up and not plague me with problems.
While all this is going on I am doing a ton of small things such as cleaning and painting the dash and interior trim pieces, Yesterday I finished installing and plumbing a dual master cylinder, doing a bit of work to the gauges and installing a tach.
One question I will ask is about steering boxes. As with all Ford steering boxes ever mine is super sloppy and wont adjust any further. That leaves a few options
1: I buy a new one for $600ish. I dont think so
2: I try and rebuild mine which I am sure I could do but am a little hesitant to atm because of time.
3: I have mine rebuilt. I was looking at rebuilders and all the mustang places want 4-500 to rebuild a stock box which isnt going to happen. There is stangserssite which I hear does great work for cheap but no one can get a hold of the guy, me included, and looking on forms no one has talked about them in about 4 years. And lastly there is Lares corp that I read decent things about. They quoted me $300 but rockauto offers their rebuild services for $137 and $25 shipping which seems really economical.
Any advice here?
Here is a picture of the ranchero with the 5 lug swap and 49 Ford hubcaps for a little character.

 

Holy crap!I just read that Craig's list ad....Those heads would be great for your motor...hell,that whole motor minus intake and supercharger would be a pretty nice setup for you!

Scott


Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!

 

That Ranchero looks really good!Love how understated it is!

Try replacing the rag joint before you change out the box...sometimes that little overlooked part makes an otherwise useable steering box seem like its junk.

Scott


Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!

 

Tons of advice on here, putputboom nice looking ranchero there. I know what you are going through as I had to complete the v8 conversion as well.
Looking for a 302 now as well to drop in my 64 falcon. The little 260 runs decent but not enough low end for me.Thinking about doing the roller block setup (stroker) but not too sure, looks a little pricey in the long run.

 

If cost is a concern,I would suggest just finding a good used 5.0 engine like the one in the C/L ad that was posted earlier in this thread.
With an X cam,my home ported 289 heads,a swap meet intake,carb,and distributor,my used 5.0 is a blast to drive,and sounds like a real hot rod motor,for less cash than most young guys spend on their subwoofers

You don't have to spend a fortune to have fun.Just throw something together and beat the hell out of it and have fun!

Save your spare cash and buy the components to build your stroker motor in a year or so....In the mean time just have fun!

Scott


Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!

 

My steering box is the long shaft meaning no rag joint just one solid metal rod with the box at the end. The whole engine is tempting for 3k its a steal but for one I just dedicated my current funds towards this motor and for two every time I get a used motor and even a rebuilt one with papers it grenades or freezes or cracks something.

 

Completely unrelated (other then the ford 300 l6) but I finally dragged this over and got it to turn over and it looks good so as soon as I get a carb and what not I will have 3 phase to finally run my 3 phase air compressors! then I can do port work as well as painting.

 

You might find a solution here in the power steering and tilt column section: http://fordfalcon2000.com/restoration/powersteering.htm

 

Putputboom:
Nice score on the compressor!!!

Scott


Posted using two Dixie cups and a medium length piece of string.

 

Stay away from the factory power steering; the box is ok but the rest is more trouble than it's worth; it will cost as much as the box to repair, and has almost no road feel. I had a '65 Sprint that my wife complained steered too hard; installed power, and she hated that worse. Very funky power steering pump mount too. If you have power steering, the restorers will pay good money for a complete set-up.

Yeah, the steering boxes are a problem. On my Sprint, I went through several rebuilt units (that always managed to last just beyond the warrantee) before I got one that stayed rebuilt. Another choice if you can find a good one is the '64 and maybe '65 Comet boxes; Mercury used the 16:1 box in some of the manual steer cars, check the tag. In all reality, good used Mustang boxes probably won't be much easier to find. I've seen a few home-brew rack conversions for reasonable if your fab skills are up to it; that will probably be the least $$ solution.

Nice Ranchero by the way....

 

I agree with Steve about the power steering on the early Falcons/Mustangs etc.....Not exactly a dream come true.

I would not even run power steering on one of these cars unless I put a ton of miles on it each week,and did LOTS of parallel parking or something.

The car is so light and compact,I wouldn't even mess around with it.
I've never had it on mine,and the only time I even notice it is when I'm making the 99 point turn to awkwardly fit the car into the storage locker between the two EXTREMELY closely spaced buildings.

Scott


Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!

 

x2.

I daily drove mine in college . . . wasn't hard to steer in parking lots till I added a spool in the rear.

 

I have no intentions of going to power steering. I like manual steering and brakes because it gives the car character. So among today's objective I have to figure out why jegs charged me 400 instead of 270 for the cam and lifters.
All bottom end parts coming in this afternoon from summit. Cam and lifters coming in Monday.

 

Good Man!Mine is also manual steering and brakes....hell,it's radio and heater delete,too!

That is strange about Jeg's....they have always been great for me.
I would bring it to their attention,and I would bet they will correct it without any hassle or argument,and try will probably throw in a freebie of some kind for the inconvenience.Theyre a pretty solid outfit.

Scott


Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!

 

I don't want to hijack this thread, but since it has progressed into a "what works with this and not so much with that" type of information, could I get some input on using some parts I have for a 65 Falcon convertible SBF setup.
I have World Products Sr iron heads 2.02 intake with 64cc chambers.
Stock 85 Mustang Gt roller block.
Cobra/edelbrock F4B intake.
1.6 roller rockers
Headers.

Would these heads be worth using at all? They are brand new and I have had them for 20yrs but were intended for a 351 block but I would like to stay with 289/302 block due to the Falcon's tight engine bay.
Would I be better off just using the 302 heads?
Looking for mild performance, max economy, top rpm 5-5500.

 

Called jegs and after sitting on hold for 12 min I was told they were sorry it was their and that my money would be refunded in 2-3 business days. They were honest but did nothing to make it up and I may not get my money back till Monday so not extremely happy with that encounter.

 

my dyno graph of the windsor sr heads is on page 2. Ported the are among the best iron, inline, windsor-based, heads out there.

 

Actually if you don't want power steering you can use the same year manual box as covered in the article and use the info to add a tilt column and eliminate the "deadly spear".Back in post #69 by the O.P. this was an issue he was concerned with.

 

That sounds like the makings of a great combo!
Back in the cut throat days of "fastest street car" racing in the early '90's and outfit called BES used to use a heavily ported set of those headsto run some really serious numbers....in stock form they work nice,and if you step up the power later they can grow with your motor.

Scott


Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!

 

Summit... Like a kid in a candy shop.

 

Arp rod bolts..can't just swap for stock, just as swaping main bearing bolts for studs requires line bore the rods have to be resized...

 

I am letting the machine shop do their thing with the engine since im good freinds with the owners son and judging by the Ardun flathead, among other engines, they are building currently they know their stuff.