Features Doing Falcons Right

The doors will bolt right on. Sedan doors could be made to work, if you backed the posts up.

 

Well if the coupe doors are an easy fit,i have to make em seal,that's another issue,i'm hoping someone here has tried it,can only HOPE hey,thanks gh.

 

I will cross-check the US and Australia versions, and make sure.

 

Here's somethin' a little different on the Falcon I'm doin' ......... Road race style... Shelby Drop on the A arms, etc..... she STICKS !!

 

That's the path I took.

 

if he's found an Aussie delivery it probably uses the same short sedan doors. convertible doors and US coupe doors are longer. sealing the top and back edge of the glass to the body of a delivery using hardtop or convertible doors will require some creativity.

 

Sorry I should have mentioned,i scored one of yours just out of N/York,fact v8 as well!

 

I got bored.

Transmission cooler:



Aeroquip FCN06 hose and fittings:



A piece of sheet metal with a bunch'a holes, painted black:



More holes, this time with grommets in an impossible to find 63 Falcon stone guard:



Some H-D Shovel head oil tank mounts:



The Earl's plate cooler, some hose:



Earl's 5/16 hard line to -6AN adapters, with caps to make less of a mess:



Lines n' fittings, ready for Adel clamps:

 

Im digging that front end. Is that all glass or did you build sheet metal onto the front bumper?

 

I have been wanting to switch out the stock exhaust manifolds but I keep hearing mixed conclusions whether the hedman headers....http://www.summitracing.com/parts/HED-88400/?rtype=7 will fit in a 64 falcon with stock shock towers.One in particular has me worried is that the steering box will get in the way.
Can't afford Dougs and just trying to liven it up a bit.

Thanks,
mark

 

Did a search and came up with this thread, seems to answer my question....http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=457675&highlight=hedman+shortys

 

So I am working the scarebird kit on my 63 Mercury Comet. Just had my drums cut down as hubs, but the studs don't fit into the stanza rotor.

It looks like I'm going to have to dremmel some material out of the rotor. Has any one else had this issue?

How did you resolve it? Are the scarebird hubs an exact fit?

Trying to pay a pic, but can't. ..

Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!

 

The Scarebird hubs are an exact fit.

 

stoner72, did you knock the stock studs out as they said in the instructions? The stock studs have a swage at the base where it meets the hub and that might be what doesn't clear.

 

I wouldn't go after the rotors with a dremel! No way to get the holes perfectly round, which might cause vibration problems when barking later.

 

That, and it has been a long-standing policy of mine to not modify wear items. It is probably the swage shoulder on the original studs that is causing the interference. That is the issue to resolve.

 

I had a shop swedge cut them out, cut the drum down and then press in the new studs.


Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!

 

Those studs look absolutely huge! are you sure they are 1/2"-20? My Nissan Stanza rotors dropped right over hubs with very minor trimming.

 

Do the stock lug nuts fit on those studs? They should. Otherwise, the machine shop over-did it.

 

Good call. I'd sure try a 1/2" lug nut on those studs!

 

stoner72, if you are in the Phoenix area, you are welcome to call and come by and see the completed Scarebird setup on my wagon. It's unfortunately sitting now pending the accident lawsuit that killed it, but the brakes and such are intact and you are welcome to copy anything I did.

 

Thanks for the input everyone. I emailed scarebird yesterday and he responded first thing morning.

It appears that I ordered the wrong bolts. Going to verify tonight what I ordered. Might have to try again.

Louvers, I am in the Phoenix area. Might have to check in with you later. Were you able to get the bolts out yourself? Might re buy studs and do it myself.

Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!

 

Absolutely! The studs you have in there right now should simply press out, as only the stockers are swaged. If need be we can head down to my wholesaler and get you not only the right stuff as far as studs, but an introduction so you can start buying parts the old fashioned way instead of the O'Riley/Autozone/Pep boys craziness that people seem to be okay with these days. My phone number is at the bottom of every post I do here on the H.A.M.B.

 

I finally remembered that I never did document the Weber 32/36 install in my '60 144.

I used a DFEV, 'cause I got one cheap. The barrel orientation, and the rotation of the throttle linkage offers the path of least resistance when adapting to the stock linkage.

Keep in mind, a box stock DFEV has totally incorrect jets (p: 137, s: 140) for this application. It is a 4-cylinder setup, and a lean one, at-that. It MUST be re-jetted, or you will be no better than 14.7:1, even under acceleration. You won't be happy.

For re-jetting, I used data acquisition hardware to monitor engine operating conditions, including operating temp, vacuum, and a wide-band Oxygen sensor.

What I ended up with was:

Idle jets - Primary 60, Secondary 50
Mains - Primary 155, Secondary 160
Air corrector- Primary 180, Secondary 160.
Accelerator pump squirter - 60, dual nozzle.
Idle mixture screw - about 1-3/4 turns out, set by best vacuum at lowest idle method.
Timing - unrecorded, DUI HEI, set by best vacuum at idle method.
Idle RPM - where it sounded good.
Fuel pressure regulated by Weber regulator - 2 psi.

This should nail the setup on a 144, at or near sea-level, depending on exact setup (ignition, driving style, etc). It will at-least give you a decent jumping off point if you need to tune for something else.

This gives a 15.5:1 cruise A/F mixture, and just over 30mpg, at 65mph, steady-state, on level-'ish ground.

Hope that helps.

 

Isn't 15.5 a bit too lean?

 

How would the jetting set up relate to a 170.


Posted using my Big THUMB on a small screen!

 

Nope. EGT tells the tale.

 

This should be pretty close for a 170.

Need Louvers? Posted his 200 jets a little while back. They were very close to this, too, if a touch leaner.

 

Thanks for the info I need a jet kit for my 170 with the same weber. Just hadn't messed with it yet because I wasn't sure where to start. This should give a good baseline.

Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!

 

Oh, and I forgot to add, the DF and DG series Webers have a different size primary idle jet. One is fat, one is skinny. I don't believe that they interchange, although I have not tried.

Make sure that you pull both primary and secondary idle jets and compare. If they look the same, the idle one is the skinny one. If they don't, the idle one is the fat one.

Skinny:


Fat:


They are each slid into retaining screws:


On the outside of the carburetor body (a link to a large diagram):
http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_dlt8k_lxV9c/TAPyQcSHX5I/AAAAAAAABTU/LLA_52-qdR8/s1600/3236dgv+jetting+001.jpg

That diagram shows where everything else goes, too. Just bear in mind, there are two 32/36 carburetor bodies. They are identical but mirror-images. So if yours happens to look flipped, that's why. Some just fit better going the other way.

As always, the primary barrel it the one that opens first.

You will need to remove the tiny e-clip and disconnect the choke pull linkage from the arm to take the top off. You will see what I mean if you forget. It just won't let you. Use care and caution when removing the clip. It is super small, and is poised to dive right into the primary barrel. Leaving it off during jetting/tuning, for ease, seems to not be an issue. Mine has been off for almost a year (oops!) and has not had an issue. Just make sure to re attach the choke when putting the cover back on.