I know this subject has been covered alot but I looked through the archives and could not find the answer I was looking for. Running a model T spring in a model a. I know that the T spring is 1/4 more narrow than the model a. I purchased new shackles and bushings, when installed there is about an 1/8 or better gap between the spring perch and shackle bar. Checked on the fordbarn and that gap doesn't seem to be a problem. Question I have is if that gap is not a problem do you really need to shim the T spring in the shackle. My thought is that the center bolt will keep it in the crossmember and the radius rod will keep the axle from moving.
I wouldn't go with out them. You could put it centered or to front or back, same with the spring perch. It's too easy to not do it and your thinking seems to be asking more of the parts involved because you don't want to add a few washers and a shim. Those little bushings have a hard enough life, why make it worse on purpose?
I am going to use a model a top leaf so that it will fit in the corss member correctly. I guess my question is if an 1/8 or 3/16 gap is ok for the shackle and perch wouldn't it be ok for 1/4 on the spring. Also wouldn't it center itself because of the radius rod keeping the axle in place and the spring in the cross member with the u bolts. Am I looking at this wrong. Do I need to shim the perch as well?
I have already made 1/8 inch bushings for the spring but because of the gap on the perch side the shackle bar will not bolt down and they are very loose. Guess it sounds like I need to shim the perch also??
If you have gap in perch, and gap in shackles, what's keeping the spring walking front to back. Say left side forward and right side back ?
I see what he is saying, and while the radius rods will keep the rear end in place, the spring might get all wonky if its not shimmed. why give it the ability to move? its better to do it right the first time, I learned that a few years back
Hey, VICKY: If he has 'gaposis' between the PERCH and shackle, I am prone to wonder what the perch length is... Oh, for a pic! LOL
Asked and answered. Ill try again The ubolts will hold a properly fit and shimmed spring in place. If I understand your post you have neither. Ps. I hate it when a guy (especially me) asks a question and everyone wants to know why, so I don't do that. Stock to the question if you know the answers. But, I got to ask why, why would you want to do this half assed. Why do you need to put a 1/4 gap in the crossmember and why do you need to leave a 1/4" gap at the shackles ?
I see what you are saying too and it prolly won't affect shit.but think of it like this.a little loose in each tie rod end makes hella loose steering.so a little loose in each bushing will make the rear handle loose going down the road Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
Just having badly worn shackle bushings of the correct length had my rear end "walking". It is a no brainier to shim it. Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
The OP already has a GAP that needs to be shimmed. Wouldn't grinding the perch make his problem worse?
Other way, the spring is narrower than the perch. Grind the edges of the perch to match the spring then you don't need the shims. I assume you would need to grind the bushings as well, and make sure the threads are cut further on the shackle for the nut to tighten up further.
Now don't that sound like 8 times the amount of effort of adding shims? The shackle shoulder length would then match the spring yr and he could use T shackles.
I whole heartedly agree and wouldn't put forth that effort. Just trying to explain that posters thought process. I've used T springs in A chassis' shimming the shackles is the solution I used.
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