First up, the truck looks kool. I had a 63 Impala with the same problem, broke two new centre bearings fairly quickly. Before I put the third new one in I welded the carrier together, (they are only spot welded), I also welded a piece of 1/4 inch plate to the bottom of the bearing carrier to raise it up a little, before I bolted it back in, never broke another one after that. Chevy....
I was thinking $400 cause it needs a center carrier bearing . I think the center bearing needs to be further forward since the car is so low now. And I like the idea of reinforcing it too.
You guys have me all scared now since I have bags on the wagon....do all the gm wagons from 64 share the same driveshaft? I'm wondering so if I want to order up a slip yolk shaft I won't have to go through a bunch of **** becuase it's not a chevy........
well, my 64 buick wagon sure does have an x frame under it....I spent alot of time under it installing the bags! I'm pretty sure my old 60 poncho had one as well.....
The regular buicks may not have the x-frames, I have no clue. I only know that my Estate wagon does! I figure it's at least REAL close to the same ch***is as the chevy wagons, thus the driveshaft question.
I think all the GM's have the X-frame, but some add additional outer rails. I know the 60 Olds i parted out had the two-piece driveshaft with slip yoke on the rear section. It had the X-style center of the frame, but also some outer style rails if I remember correctly. Chevy was cheap and let the bearing flex, whereas the more expensive Olds (and apparently Cadillac also) used the slip yoke style. As several others said, make sure you put the bearing in with the rear suspension loaded at normal ride height. That way you do not pre-stress the rubber
besides the slip yoke on the rear shaft, put it up on a drive on lift, pull the rear u-joint out of the rear end, put the carrier in the middle of the slots, measure how much you need to the rear end and how much more you need into trans. the driveshaft shops told me they like to see the yoke in the trans with only 3/4" sticking out (but i go between 3/4"-1" just in case). most of the one's i've done needed around 1" in the rear, so just tell them to leave an extra 1" when putting in the slip yoke. also you can change the the pinion angle by adding or removing the shims on the torque arm where it bolts to the body. might want to check the seal and bushing on the tailshaft of the trans, but most of the times if either is bad they leak pretty bad.
to add to that last part, while you're checking tailshaft seals, check the pinion seal. With all that abuse, I'd hate to see you seize your rearend as well after all your gear lube ran out the nose.
Not to repeat what a few have said. Your problem is more than likely improper procedure installing your drive shaft. I have been driving X frame GMs since they came out in 58, almost all were Chevys, 283s, 327s, 348s, 409s, 427s, 454s, and some non Chev engs, with NO problems!! However it IS CRITICAL how you reinstall the drive shaft. IT HAS TO BE AT RIDE HEIGHT when the carrier bearing bolts are tighted!!!! Raise it up, slide the shaft in, install the u bolts on the pinion yoke finger tight!! Install the 2 carrier bearing bolts, leave them loose for now. Raise the rearend to static ride height, tighten the u bolts on the yoke and then move up to carrier bearing, from the rear of the X, grab the driveshaft and gently shake it up and down, wont move much but it will center itself to relieve the stress and align itself fore and aft and center the carrier bearing support, gently let it down and tighten the bolts, Be careful when you lower the vehicle, if you drop the rearend to far (end of shock travel) it could pull the bearing out of the carrier rubber sleeve and when it goes forward again, it may not seat in its groove. Vibration will result. Good luck, just be patient and do it all in sequence and it will give you thousands of trouble free miles. Later Dave, and by the way, have a "COOL YULE and a FRANTIC FIRST"!!!
i was told that you can get the polyurethane bearing from a company called empire. also a little different but close thing is my daily is a full size extended cab truck. i lowered it almost frame to the axle. it has a two piece drive shaft i had to raise the center bearing to eliminate vibration . and shim the pinion angle.
Just to add to this... On these X-frame Chevy's you need to have the yokes on the front half perpendicular to each other. So, if you're looking down the shaft from one end they need to look like a +. Some of the stock shafts won't let you put it back together wrong, others will; probably one of those things that depends upon the year. You do need to get that pinion angle adjusted or else you'll probably keep eating u-joints, too.
The '62 Buick is X-frame with slip-yokes at both ends. My lowered '62 Invicta convertible has a slight knock at take-off that quickly smooths out. Since I have the rear slip-yoke from Buick, I'm focusing on beefing the center bearing support and new yoke bushings/seals on the rear of the Dynaflow ******.
i broke four carrier bearings in my old 58 wagon haha too many burnouts but sounds like you need a lowrider style slip yoke in the back shaft because of the drop and one of those billet alum carrier bearings and youll be set for life lol my buddy runs a billet bearing in his 62 ss with a 454,th 400 and it holds up strong
Thank god for that. Any car in Dirty T's stable seems destined for a slow(not always slow, sometimes he kills them off quickly) agonizing death. Frank
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