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primer question

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by 1oldtimer, Dec 13, 2005.

  1. does anyone make a primer surfacer anymore?. i used to use ppg k200, it's like a really thick primer for filling sandmarks, pits, knicks....... i don't wanna go over the whole car inch by inch with filler or spot putty. i went to the paint store, they have a polyester (sp?) "hi-fill performance" primer and know nothing about k200 or what preimer surfacer means. the hi-fill primer is made by the same company i used a water born primer from and it sucked. so if anyone makes it and you have used it, i would like to know good and bad about it.
     
  2. Tha Driver
    Joined: May 11, 2005
    Posts: 903

    Tha Driver
    BANNED
    from S.E. USA

    I use Sikkens "Colorbuild". High dollar but it's the best IMO. You can have it tinted to match the paint, but I always seal it with epoxy anyway so I have it tinted grey. It fills as well as K200 did but sands eaiser.
    HTH,
    ~ Paul
    aka "Tha Driver"

    America - made in China! :-(
     
  3. theHIGHLANDER
    Joined: Jun 3, 2005
    Posts: 10,591

    theHIGHLANDER
    Member

    Did ya ever think to try "Slick Sand"? Kind of like "Featherfill". Slick Sand is a little more user friendly but bein on the left coast ya might have to mail order. Made by Evercoat. Just be sure to clean the gun like IMMEDIATLY when your done. After that just about any primer will do ya just fine. Can we assume there's some issues with the surface? Lots of pits and deep scratches? This will do ya. Good luck.
     
  4. i have used a lot of that featherfill, great stuff, and it will build your arms up! its been a few years though, is it still being made?
     
  5. I believe you can still get PPG K38 which is a high build.
     
  6. the SCROUNGER
    Joined: Nov 17, 2005
    Posts: 523

    the SCROUNGER
    Member
    from USA


    what you want to buy is urethane primer-surfacer, it will fill sandscratches like the old lacquer based stuff did- but is much stronger and better holdout.

    epoxy 2-part will also fill sandscratches, if you use a large enough air cap needle valve on your gun to shoot it- I filled in a thumb print once with epoxy just for kicks- on my own car. But that epoxy is harder to sand.

    If I wanted an easy sanding, fast fill primer, I'd use urethane.

    the ultra-fill stuff will eventually shrink, and show the sandscratches again. That's great for fast in/out high production, lower quality work- but I would not use it on a nice hot rod paint job. Think about it, do you really want to leave 36 grit sandscratches in your bondo work, and fill them in with primer ? I'd say to the job right, and put 80 grit on, then hit it with 120, then prime it. The result will be a job that the sandscratches are not visible when it shrinks

    and all repairs shrink, eventually...
     
  7. Tha Driver
    Joined: May 11, 2005
    Posts: 903

    Tha Driver
    BANNED
    from S.E. USA

    1) Original Featherfill is no longer being made; they make something similar but I hear it's not quite as good. Haven't used it - but may try some soon as I'm working on some mold work & Featherfill was great for plugs to pull molds from.
    2) K38 sucks.
    3) I fill 80 grit scratches all the time with Sikkens Colorbuild & it never shrinks down later, but I always give it plenty of time to setup (usually days at the least) before I block it.
    ~ Paul
    aka "Tha Driver"

    Headline: APATHY RUNS RAMPANT - Nobody cares.
     
  8. Squablow
    Joined: Apr 26, 2005
    Posts: 18,243

    Squablow
    Member

    I've heard that Z-Chrome is some sweet shit if you really gotta build it up, would be good if you had a big dent that was hammered back into shape and has hammer marks all over it. Not exactly what you're looking for, though.

    My favorite "Fill-Primer" is Mar-Hyde Ultimate 2K, it's pretty cheap (around $60-$70 per gallon) and it sands out really nice. If you can afford the time, let your mudwork sit a while so it can shrink back, then spray on your fill primer, and give that some time to shrink back. Sand out that Ultimate 2K and lay down some epoxy before paint. I couldn't live without that stuff.
     
  9. billjharris
    Joined: Oct 7, 2005
    Posts: 862

    billjharris
    Member

    everyone around here uses a product called Z-CHROME, it is sprayable body filler, 2 coats and most normal pits are filled, I have painted directly over it and it seemed to work OK.
     
  10. krooser
    Joined: Jul 25, 2004
    Posts: 4,583

    krooser
    Member

  11. yea, the back end looks like someone went to town with a air sander and 36 grit in some places. also when i got it back from the blasters some of the surface rust left some pits on the body and the dash. all of my filler work is finished off with 400 grit so any primer will fill that. i have it painted in zero rust right now as i do the bodywork, then primer surfacer (of some sort), block it, i have some dp40 to seal it and then the shiny stuff. looks like i might have to mail order some stuff because alot of the paints/primers are not in the paint stores here in california........damn epa.
     
  12. well i found a paint store that had featherfill and the new featherfill. old stuff isn't made anymore but they still had a gallon left, well i'll have some left for the other cars :eek: . also i put some of the hippo liner on the bottom of the body as an undercoat, damn that stuff works good. i scratched it, welded by it and yesterday filled (welded)some holes in the floor.....it burned just around the weld barely. well now i'm going to get more, do the underside of the fenders, running board and the inside floor.
     

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