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School me: what is an LT1??

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by atomickustom, Dec 12, 2005.

  1. atomickustom
    Joined: Aug 30, 2005
    Posts: 3,409

    atomickustom
    Member

    I keep seeing references to having an LT1. All I know is that it's a Chevy small-block. What is it? Is it a 350? What's so special about it? What cars did it come in?
    (I don't know squat about late-model cars, and I consider everything newer than 1985 to be late model, so I am totally out of the loop on this one!)
    Any/all info would be appreciated.
     
  2. CharlieLed
    Joined: Feb 21, 2003
    Posts: 2,464

    CharlieLed
    Member

    53Nailhead likes this.
  3. Bugman
    Joined: Nov 17, 2001
    Posts: 3,483

    Bugman
    Member

    the LT1 is a 2nd gen SBC, came in 350 CID, avalible in 93-97 Vettes, Camaros, Firebirds, and 94-96 Caprice, Impala SS, Fleetwood, and Roadmasters. Depending on year and model, it was rated from 220-300 HP, and had either iron or aluminum heads. It has reverse flow cooling so the heads get cooled first, and because of this, it had relitivly high compression, but still uses cheap gas. It can be converted to a carbed and distributered motor with an intake swap. It also uses a gear driven water pump, so even if you throw a belt, you dont need to worry about overheating. I've got one in my '94 ex-cop Caprice, and I absolutly love it. 240 HP, 340 TQ, runs on 87 octane, and I average 25-28 MPG highway in my 4400 LB car.

    There's also an LT-1 that came in the early 70's Z28s which is a standard SBC, but very performance oriented. I don't know much about those.
     
  4. Bugman is right- the early version was strong too- I believe 350-360 HP 350"
     
  5. woodythx138
    Joined: Feb 19, 2004
    Posts: 323

    woodythx138
    Member


    It means "LOTSA TORCH FIRST GEAR " I just had to say it.But the other guys are right on.Chris
     
  6. wz56km
    Joined: Oct 6, 2005
    Posts: 128

    wz56km
    Member

    To even expand on the idea, GM also used a crank driven front engine mounted distributer called an Opti-Spark. It works well and typically is good into the 100,000 mile mark. The problem is its like $300 plus to replace it and changing the cap and rotor is also expensive not to mention it's also a pain in the rear since you have to pull the water pump. Because of its placement by the water pump its also popular for it to get wet and destroyed when you have a leak in your water pump.

    Other then that their sweet. May people have torn them down with 175k miles on them and found the cylinders to still have the factory cross hatching.

    Not traditional if that is your thing. Also the heads limit your intake choices.
     
  7. GO-rilla
    Joined: Dec 29, 2004
    Posts: 744

    GO-rilla
    Member

    Done that swap 6 times over the years and finally got rid of the Z28, fuck GM and who ever invented the optispark, who figured putting it under the waterpump should get kicked in the mouth, hard. Awesome power, poor design.

    Gabe
     
  8. 392_hemi
    Joined: Jun 16, 2004
    Posts: 1,737

    392_hemi
    Member

    I always thought the LT1 was the 350 cid 350 hp. Had one in a '70 Nova SS with Muncie M22 and 12 bolt posi. Best muscle car I ever owned. Fast as hell and a real blast to drive.
     
  9. 5foot2
    Joined: Apr 28, 2005
    Posts: 291

    5foot2
    Member
    from Maine

    yeah, same name, diff motor.
     
  10. flatheadpete
    Joined: Oct 29, 2003
    Posts: 10,558

    flatheadpete
    Member
    from Burton, MI

    Ifn' ya know how....which I do.....you can get some serious power out of those things. I'd like one to replce the anemic TBI 305 in my Caprice. I can say 11 second station wagon. Can anyone else?
     
  11. tommy
    Joined: Mar 3, 2001
    Posts: 14,757

    tommy
    Member Emeritus

    [​IMG]
    Looks like any other SBC if you change the valve covers.
     
  12. LT-1 (with dash) is the early 1970 version, high compression, muscle car engine.
    LT1 (no dash) is the late model fuel injected version that most of the descriptions people have already made.


     
  13. continentaljohn
    Joined: Jul 24, 2002
    Posts: 5,687

    continentaljohn
    Member

    I would like to know about the early LT-1.. I have one sitting and it suppose to be a crate motor from 70 1/2.. All I think of him saying was it's got pink rods, 11 to 1, forged crank and some jag stold the dizzy from the shop:D . He was proud of the motor and it's a shame he didn't get to use it before he passes away.. And too bad I'm a ford guy:D
     
  14. tommy
    Joined: Mar 3, 2001
    Posts: 14,757

    tommy
    Member Emeritus

    [​IMG]

    Lots of info here.

    My intake is 3972116 which they list as a replacement. I believe my motor is a crate motor also. the block has XCD code.
     
  15. 392_hemi
    Joined: Jun 16, 2004
    Posts: 1,737

    392_hemi
    Member

    If you're interested in a sale or trade, let me know.
     
  16. InPrimer
    Joined: Mar 10, 2003
    Posts: 778

    InPrimer
    Member

    I just did a rad swap, water pump and cap/rotor/wire change on my kid's 96 Firebird ,got parts from Napa i think under 600$the rad was over 250 (Alum)Im not big on electronics, but I'de love to have that mill/w/ a 6 speed in my rod runs like a bear. The PITA was removing crank pulley to get to the rotor/and cap, here's a site that shows you how to do a distr tuneup. www.fierolt1.com/technical_documents_main one last thing there is a T 5 or smaller bit that you need we borrowed one from a mech at a Gm dealer or you have to buy one from snap on
     
  17. BR3W CITY
    Joined: Oct 18, 2005
    Posts: 31

    BR3W CITY
    Member

    600$ sounds a bout right, but i can prolly help you guys out for less. I work at napa so if anyone interested is in WI (or north il) i can get ahold of these parts if you desire, for less than you would pay outright for them.
     
  18. CadillacKid
    Joined: Oct 15, 2002
    Posts: 1,507

    CadillacKid
    Member

    You can get cap and rotor kits for Opti-sparks from Summit for about $120. And you not only have to pull the water pump, but also the emissions pump and the harmonic balancer. Pain in the Ass! Bugman is right though...I've got one of these in a '95 Fleetwood Brougham...big caddy does nice big smokie burners! :) And gets about 26 mpg!
     
  19. Smokin Joe
    Joined: Mar 19, 2002
    Posts: 3,770

    Smokin Joe
    Member

    In 1970 The Chevelle SS came with the 396 Big Block at 375 horse but Chevy effectivly detuned it with the HP eating 400 turbo and 3.31 rear end. Smarter guys went with the Camaro or Nova and the LT-1 with Muncie or turbo 350 if you had to have an automatic. A few less HP, but it was in a lighter car and you could get 4.11 or 4.56 gears with posi and the standard/lighter interior. The LT-1 in the vette was rated at 5 more HP than the Camaro because the Camaro needed a shorter intake for hood clearance. Other than that, it was the same engine.
     
  20. Appleseed
    Joined: Feb 21, 2005
    Posts: 1,053

    Appleseed
    Member

  21. LUX BLUE
    Joined: May 23, 2005
    Posts: 4,407

    LUX BLUE
    Alliance Vendor
    from AUSTIN,TX

    the M.S.D. coil change has gotta be the best upgrade to that system I have ever seen. what good will a coil do,Right?
    put one on my buddies 9c1 (thats cop car for you non special code guys)(yep,I'm a dork)
    and it went from "pretty darn quick" to "HOLY $#!T BATMAN,THE REAR END IS COMIN' AROUND!!!!"
    no kidding. best 100 bucks of someone elses I ever spent.
     
  22. Bugman
    Joined: Nov 17, 2001
    Posts: 3,483

    Bugman
    Member

    I'm gonna go out on a limb and say I love my Opti-spark. While many people lambast it, it does often last 100K before requiring any service what so ever. It also cheans up the top of the motor. It's expecially helpful in F and Y body cars. Can you imagine trying to get to a standard HEI cap and rotor in a late Camaro? Also to change the thing, you don't need to pull the whole damper off. You can unbolt the damper from the hub and leave the hub where it is. You'll still probably need to whack it with a hammer because the balancer and the hub rust togteher.
     

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