the electric fan i put in is actually pretty quiet, i just moved the radiator forward about 3 inches which was easier than i thought. then i just wired it to my ignition switch and put in a relay. took about 5 hours in all and it runs at 160 instead of 190 now.
53vicky,I lived in Lodi,Manteca and Sacramento from 1975-94 before coming to Phoenix.I haven't been back in about 5 years my stepdaughter lives in Yuba City,I would like to get back to catch the "traditional' Drags at Kingdon in Lodi,there is some great pics on the web.
Wasn't to bad, we got to sit on the side of the road going into Raceway Park here in Indy, watch all the cool cars cruise by. Was browsing the Speedway Motors catalog, and Summit racing, and they've got the steel fans, and spacers you'll be looking for. The core for the radiator in my 55 is 19 x 19. It cools the 302 that was swapped in fine so far. JeffB2 - soon as you go beyond a stock configuration, like adding A/C, or a much bigger motor then stock, or severe duty, then you def. need to consider going beyond stock.
Mr.H- Ok cool, thanks for the info. Jeff- Ohh really?? when is the traditional drags? Keith- Nice. Yeah i checked summit and orded a 1" spacer, now im just kinda looking around and hecking everything for the correct kind of fan. at the little car show i go to every other thursday, i talked to alot of guys, about 30% of the cars there had those flex fans on them, but after listening to geno im kind of afraid to, i think im going to order a black steel one.
[re: You need one too Eric? I need a few key measurements to make one... * fan diameter *distance of fan from radiator for blade placement in shroud, (fan blade half in and half out of shroud) *stock radiator using the p***enger side lower spout? *center point of fan in relation to radiator for the placement of the fan hole. *stock mounting of radiator in core support? It sounds like a pain but it is really easy to build.] Now you guys have me thinking about a shroud & maybe a more-bladed fan for my '56. Guess I'd rather be pro-active and do it now than later. So far no problems but only 300 miles since everything got renewed (recored/upgraded radiator -original tanks, new water pump, t'stat, cap, etc.). I kept the 4blade fan. I took the car out last night, 86 degrees, did some extended stops at idle, and had no problems - the temp gage didn't move. But I have done a 'parade lap' with it yet if you know what I mean? I'm running plain water in it for now, as part of the 'shakedown' process (if it's gonna leak, better it be water than poision antifreeze). QUESTION - I might've missed it but, what more-than 4 blade fan would be a direct replacement for the 4blade? Same outside diameter? No clutch, just a fan. And Geno, with the dimensions listed above you'd be able to make a shroud for a '56? They're probably similar to the '52-'54s. ron
Well it's mid-summer so I'm gonna resurrect this issue. Now that we've been having high 80s & 90s weather here in Michigan I've been driving the '56 around a bit and sure 'nuff it tends to get a bit warm especially when tooling around town at low speeds or at stoplights. Nothing critical yet but I don't want to wait till it is. I'm wanting to stay as close to stock as possible so no electric fans - at least not till after I try the alternatives. Everything is new in the cooling system - recored/upgraded radiator, new water pump, 190 stat, a 13 lb. cap (spec for a '56 Yblock), and just water (anti-freeze goes in soon). I got a lead on a 7-blade fan, to replace the stock 4blade. NO to flex blades - I've seen what happens when they "flex" too much - and have gone thru a hood!. Geno, are you still building shrouds? If so I'll get the dimensions etc. to you. Oh, and what's the word on something called "wetter water"? I've heard about it but does it work re: run cooler? Here's a link to some interesting info; posted by a guy over on FB: http://www.turbomagazine.com/features/0703_turp_cooling_system_additives/test_results.html thx. Ron
I'm a big believer in going back to the basics, Ron, and it sounds like that's what you plan to do. A more efficient factory-style fan placed close to the radiator core, a well-designed shroud, removal of as much stuff as possible from the incoming and outgoing air stream and an efficient coolant mixture should put you in good shape. Since you are having heating problems at low speeds, chances are your current fan/fan shroud combination is not doing the job. Straight water is also not very efficient as a coolant. Your projected cure is spot-on in my opinion. My only suggestion is that you consider using an OEM-style thermostatic fan clutch. These are used by the factory to allow the fan to be more efficient when it is needed and reduce power and mileage-robbing drag when it is not needed. I'd also go with LOW-TOX anti-freeze (less toxic to dogs, kids, etc. who are drawn to the sweet odor and taste of warm conventional anti-freeze, only a few licks of which is - not can be - fatal to both!) and water in the recommended blend ratio. I'm not a big fan of snake-oil coolant additives, feeling that they help the manufacturer get fat far more than they help your car stay cool. If they use the words up to in the claims they make, watch out! Glad to hear that you're putting some miles on your hardtop...and some smiles on your face, I'll bet! Have you figured out how to remove ice cream from the upholstery yet?
The 56's didn't have factory shrouds but there seemed to be some other tech stuff the engineers tried back then, to try & cool them down. They might've helped but not a lot. One thing is probably that piece that runs alongtop the radiator support to try & deflect incoming air thru the radiator instead of over it. I'm running water right now only to make sure the system is tight and dry. So far, so good but I don't intend to keep it in much longer - can't up here in Michigan. I'm aware that antifreeze will usually run cooler. Where I work (Army) there's a spec for "greener", less toxic antifreeze that is supposed to have a lesser enviro impact if spilled. The Army is very concerned about such issues, as some countries are very strict so we strive to be pro-active, to prevent adverse consequences later. I don't recollect who makes the stuff used but will check it out more when I get time. re: fan clutch? Yes, it's another option. There's not a lot of clearance right now between fan/radiator but that might also be overcome with use of another hub/pulley/fan combo. It - along with the electric fan - is not something I want to do but will if necessity dictates. Concur with you, I'm also not a fan of additives; would much rather fix it right the first time and not mask it over, only to have it surface again later. ron
Yes. The hot ticket is to create a high pressure area (as in blowing) in front of the radiator...as high as possible...and a low pressure area (as in ****ing) just behind it...as low as possible. Keep in mind, however, that electric fans only pull (or push) air through the area of radiator they actually cover. Since there is often no other fan used, the rest of the radiator is wasted at low speeds except to expand the amount of water held in the system. A large fan shroud, like Geno's for example, creates a strong low pressure area behind the entire area of the radiator core at low speeds. This is far more efficient because the radiator's ability to cool is a function of the area through which air flows as well as the rate of air flow (and other factors, of course). So, if you're gonna use an electric fan, don't use one of the little Pep Boys add-on units and expect it to add much, if any, cooling capacity. There are some pretty sophisticated electric fan/shroud ***emblies available which replace the engine-driven fan entirely. The shroud covers the entire core (on the engine side) and the electric fan is suspended in the middle of the shroud. No engine-driven fan is used at all. There's a guy here in Texas who uses one of these to cool his warmed-over flathead in a fenderless Deuce coupe. It works great, even in 100+ degree Texas heat. Oh, and with regards to temperature switches for electric fans: Keep in mind that if the fan is not turning faster than the air flow it might as well be a solid wall. Even though the air flow through the radiator spins the fan, the fan blades radically restrict the air flow through the radiator, even when the fan is mounted on the engine side. Remember, too, that an air condioner condensor mounted in front of the radiator also acts as a flow restrictor even though it has holes in it. But it is more of a restriction at road speeds than at slow speeds. It's the difference between ****ing and blowing... You are on the right track, Ron, by keeping your eye on the basics, not the band-aids.
Just as a side note Red Lines Water Wetter is not a "snake oil" product it does work,I have lived here in Phoenix for 16 years it has topped 110 the last week every day.I have used it in several vehicles and experienced an average of 15 degrees drop in temperature.
Thank you for bringing this post back, I feel like I've learned a vast amount of knowledge today as if I was in a cl***. Actually my brain hurts a little right now. Thanks for the lesson everyone. 53 Vicky thanks for asking the question but sorry that happened to you right outside a show.
Well Eric, I think I'm gonna continue with the basics, one step at a time. To me, logic seems the first step should be a shroud, to try & capture as much air as possible & channel it thru the radiator, vice around it. And pick up a 7 blade fan so it'll **** more air through. I won't rule out additives like Wetter Water or whatever it's called, but only if necessary (I've heard good stuff about it). And I'm not a big 'fan' of air conditioning if it wasn't there to begin with - not that I don't like it but just sayin'. Electric fans? Uh, no, again not unless absolutely necessary. And if I went that route I'd go with something like the turbo coupe has - fullsize with a tight fitting shroud surrounding it. thanks to all for all the tips & advice, it's obvious several share this somewhat common issue. ron
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