I've got to replace the rear main seal on one of my cars. It's the late style one piece seal. I can't get the flexplate off. The bolts are the origionals, and have 90K on the clock. They won't budge with my 1/2 drive impact gun, and a breaker bar just spins the motor over, even when I try and hold it. I can't get at it real well since i'm wirking on my back. I'm guessing the bolts are lock***ed. Can I hear them up to see of the thread locker lets go? Any other tips? Thanks.
Heat is the answer. Or you can take a plug out and put yarn in the hole. When the engine spins the yarn gently "locks" it up...but heat is the right answer! Yarn can also be used for changing valve springs with the heads on.
I have a flywheel holder tool that lets me hold the engine fromt turning while twisting on the flywheel bolts. It's much easier than trying to keep the breaker bar on the harmonic balancer bolt and twist the flywheel bolts at the same time. If you don't have the correct tool though, a big flat blade screwdriver wedged between the starter nosecone and the flywheel teeth will do the same thing.
Might be time for an upgrade to a better impact wrench. Also be sure to use a good socket, they will round off if you don't.
I made a pair of C clamp Vise Grips into a flywheel clamp.But a normal pair ought to clamp on the flexplate and [when turned up] to where they contact block should do the trick......
A much better idea than a breaker and socket on the balancer bolt as the balancer bolt will just come loose doing it that way. T.OUT
100 yrs ago before i got a decent impact i just took the starter off & put a long pry bar thru a hole from the back side & spun the motor by hand until the bar jammed under the starter boss on the block & then yanked on 'em with a good socket & breaker bar. it always worked for me...mel
install long double-nutted bolt thru flex plate [one on each side] spin motor till long bolt contacts block place a socket and extension over breaker bar to gain leverage easily loosen bolts i work on my back also john