How would you weld in the Overhead Position?

For MIG welding????

wire size?
Gas Flow?
Wire Sped and Voltage settings??

I have a Millermatic 175...

Thanks

 

carefully!

seriously, I use the same settings, but technique is very important. Practice a lot before you weld the "real thing", try different ways of running the bead. Might need to s***ch it.

 

Its only a car frame, turn it over and weld in comfort.

 

Most mig welding is not designed for overhead welding.
Yes, I have done it too but only when I had no other choice and never when it was a life threatening joint.
The settings all depend on the material thickness.
The best wire to use for all vertical up and overhead welding is the fluxcore type.
Never have I seen a mig welder p*** overhead xrays.
Horizontal pos***ions yes..overhead no.
I used a flux cored mig for vertical up with xrayed pressure vessel joints but never ever overhead.
Time to get out some 7018 or 60 series electrtodes for overhead postions.

 

any thing i can just tack and finish later fliped over i will . If i have to weld upside down i will increase the wire speed a little.

 

Always fun to watch someone welding overhead.

Wear a turtleneck under your flannel shirt.
Make sure your sleeve cuffs are inside your gloves.
No cuffs on your jeans and make sure the legs are over your boots.
Just little hints I've picked up from watching others.

 

More wire speed, because the molten blub will try to run back down the wire faster than it can be thrown off onto the item you are welding.

Just don't wear your fuzzy slippers when you do it.

 

Wear ear plugs! Weld spatter in the ear, really hurts, take it from some one who knows!

 

Tman has it right. Avoid it. Sure you can and all the other advice is good but there must be a way. Even a slight off horizontal is better than o'head.

 

up on a lift isn't too bad, but on your back ****s. i say increase wire speed and just do tacks. it's kinda hard to do a bead (long bead) without it hanging or dropping off......just connect the tacks.

 

Awesome Fellas, I am just going to follow your advice and tack the plates. Until I flip it, I will finish welding....

 

good read if you ask me

http://www.autobodystore.com/new_page_11.htm

 

A good leather welding jacket (not a cape sleeve) is the best investment you can buy for this. I end up welding overhead so often that welding sitting down is uncomfortable. my rules for this are as follows.
#1. cover up any body part you don't wans burned. (got a couple real cute scars in odd places due to"quicky" jobs...)
#2. if you can do it, use a creeper. keeps you off the ground and the vinyl backrest does a good job of "trapping" slag
#3. make sure your ground clamp is not in position to get under a creeper wheel,pull off the car and smack you. (sounds silly, but trust me)
#4. it is all about wire speed. if you are able, weld as fast and hot as you can. the "wetter " the weld, the more likely to puddle or drip.
#5 as with any weld, the cleaner the better. a few extra minutes of cleaning can save your groin region a "smoky burnout".
#6. get good gloves, and be aware of you are grabbing.
aside from that, move real fast.
good luck!
Lux

 

Tried to weld bottom of friend's TLB frame where seam cracked. Can't exactly turn that ****er over. Toughest part is the loader frame is also the hydraulic reservoir and it was cracked and leaking. Wound up with some big stick rod on hi-amp AC welder to just kinda poke and fill.. Stll thick drops and slag where we did it.
Slowed down the leak to manageable rate but not really stuctural strength.

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