Going to replace the fuel line, tank to pump. I don't like the routing of the line as it leaves the tank over to the frame because of the exhaust pipe (duels) makes it real close. Any suggestions???
Short of re-routing the line when you replace it, a sheet metal heat shield might help. It doesn't need to be fancy to be effective.
You may have to get creative for clearance. There are several heat wraps available for protection. I hard lined my fuel line from tank to pump without any trouble with the exhaust, but I'm sure my exhaust is routed different. The important thing about hard lines all the way is the fuel we have here in Oregon is the 10% ethanol **** and it eats rubber fuel lines and clogs fuel filters with the rubber debris. We have one fueling station that has 'clear gas' but with our 16 gallon tank it doesn't get us too far away from home. I'd like to build or find a 26 gallon tank. I have talked to "Tanks" to see if they can build one.
Use some header wrap and some spark plug wire insulators . A heat shield will also help too . If that fuel gets too hot , it may cause a vapor lock . I ran my hard lines from the tank across the floors to the frame and used metal clips with the rubber on them so not to rub the metal line on a metal frame or mounting clip . Then to the fuel pump . The fuel line from the pump to the filter was solid also with the fuel filter on the end of the fuel line at the carb . Solid line from the tank to the carb ! It really isn't that hard but time consuming and a pain in the but sometimes when bending the lines . Look at it this way , when it's done , you won't have to worry about it leaking or rubber lines messing up your carb . Jim
"Solid line from the tank to the carb ! It really isn't that hard but time consuming and a pain in the but sometimes when bending the lines . Look at it this way , when it's done , you won't have to worry about it leaking or rubber lines messing up your carb." - Retro Jim This is really good advice!
Thanks , missysdad1 ! I just hate to use rubber line even though I have used it many times before . It's just the time to bend everything and get it coupled together . I like to use either a coat hanger or mechanics wire to form the shape of the lines to be made . That way you don't have to keep guessing and crawling up under the car to see what your next bend will be and if what you just bent really works . Just a thought ! Jim
I just ran mine from tank to carb a couple weeks ago. I know what you're talking about as far as it being close the the dual exhaust. However, when I was under it (the '53 -- I'm just guessing you're working on your '54) I noticed a factory hole that went through a support brace way up top near the floor pan...so I ran it out of the tank up through that hole and then back down and over to the outside of the frame rail up to the firewall where I junctioned in a new factory line to the stock fuel pump, basically where the it was as stock. I stuck with the rubber peice from the fire wall to the pump because I didn't want to chance stressing the fuel line if/when the motor flexes a little bit in relation to the body and frame. Mark
@genosslk.... what did tanks tell you about building a new/larger tank for your 53? i have a 53 as well, and would like to upgrade to a lil bigger tank as well.
After looking at it I went with the coil llne from Summit went great a lot better then using brake line and you can use flare fittings and a lot easier to locate out of the way. One 25' went from tank to pump and located it like stock.
If you weren't super excited about running solid lines and just wanted a quick easy fix you could always use the alcohol resistant type rubber lines. It's not too expensive, maybe around $1/ft. It's good enough for planes, so it's probably good enough for our old Fords. You can usually find it well stocked auto parts stores or at boat supply stores as well.
Hey Cal Rogers, what's "coil line"? Is that the Aluminum lines that Summit sells? What diameter did you buy?
OlDawg I used 5/16x25' Aluminun SUM-G2516. I have used the steel for brakes little easier to work with and as strong and both flare single and double.
You can buy a pre-bent SS version here, if you want OEM it is $40 less. http://www.cl***ictube.com/store/index.cfm?fuseaction=product.display&product_ID=111256
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