1952-59 Ford 1954 Ford 302/c4 SWAP

You are right ! That is an alum. fined oil pan under there !

Anyone now what lift the cam is ? The heads are really nice if no one has ever used them before . I did use a set on a 347 I build for a guy to drag race with in a Mustang . The cam used was a roller with a .600+ lift . The heads were 2.02 and flowed really great . The heads come with a special swirl in the ports that are suppose to make the air flow better . Seems to work very well . High quality heads . That should really make that 2 ton car move real sweet !

Jim

 

Jeff , where did you get an alum. fined oil pan for that price ?

Jim

 

jim, look here. almost as cheap

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/SMAL...ptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories

 

Best deal on Ford front sump pans is :www.kmjent.com for the aluminum pan put KMJ S8446 in the search box.These guys are good to deal with

 

Thanks for the tip on the oil pans . I have bought from that guy on Ebay before with no problems .
Jeff I did save that site for the oil pan and looks like he has a nice supply of other useful parts too .

Jim

 

From what I found out from Screenz there is a lot of different C4 Torque Converter combinations and KMJ was very helpful in picking one for His needs.

 

Jeff there are torque converters from stock (1200) right up to 5000 to 6000 rpm stall or more depending on the cam set up & duration you have plus any power additions that the engine might have . I am Lucky that I have a guy that rebuilds all my C-4's for less than $400 and can build a torque converter for anything you want . He does FORDS ONLY ! He will not touch any other trans out there !
If you look at the cam you are using , it will tell you what rpm that cam is good for . Then match the converter to fit the cam . Usually a stock cam can handle a cam with a mild duration with a 2000 rpm . After that the duration plays a big difference along with the cam . When racing you want the torque converter be set up about 500 to 700 rpms below launch . That is what I always went by so I wouldn't bring the rpms down lower than the cam & duration so I will be close to peak performance at launch . It really depends on the driver and build too . Everyone likes theirs a little difference but that is close .

Jim

 

I love the paint job on your car, it is almost identical to what I am planning on mine, I have seen some pics of this before and it was very insiprational!

 

Looks good! Please post some more pics and info on the tri y setup. I have to do this, just waiting on time and deciding how I want to. Did you just cut a curve off a 90* bend or what? Did you just weld on the same flange you cut off, only shorter? It looks like you angled the new flange down some to. Help this "work in progress" fabricator git r' dun please!

 

Probably just an illusion, but that copper line, which I presume is your fuel line, looks to be real close to the header and exhaust pipe. Car is looking great.

 

I have a set of Tri Y headers too and would like to see more pictures also on how you set your's up .
Thanks ahead of time !

Jim

 

I am in my shop right now under the car looking mine over...Of course, who doesnt have internet in the shop . The driver should be easier, which is the one he posted a pic of. When you cut it off you have more room to work with, but when you cut the p*** side off its a shorter distance before it curves into the exhaust hole.

I just bought some stainless steel v-band flanges to use on mine, vs the standard flange and gasket. Best I can tell right now I am going to cut them off right after the 2 turn into 1 collector, and angle a short piece toward the exhaust hole like this with my v-bands welded on. It looks like screenz angled his like that, right before he added the 90* piece. I really want to see some pics of his p***. side to see what he did, its the one I am struggling with what to do.



You can see here in my pics what I mean about the p*** side having less to work with before the exhaust hole

P*** SIDE




Driver Side

 

Ct it really wasnt anything my buddy cut the headers as short as possible rewelded the flanges kinda on a 45 took a 2in 90 and cut that on a 45 also and rewelded straight pipes on it so it's like a long s shape might not be the best way but it was cheap and looks like it's gonna work........and the copper line is a air line and it's far away from the header.......Thanks for checking this out I'll get more pics I always forget... I plan on driving it about 500 miles next weekend so I'm kind of in a hurry

 

Thanks for the info. I am going to tackle this real soon, time is nowhere to be found. Would love to see a pic or 2 of the p***. side if you have a minute to get one. What did you do for the other flange, the one that bolts to the header. Did you have to make one? Or did you have another one laying around and weld it to the curved 90 you cut?

 

The headers I bought came with teo flanges worked out pretty good I'll get a pic soon I still need to address the underside of my ride (paint it) Kind of shy about showing it lol

 

On another note I bought a factory aluminum radiator off egay.... anyone had any luck with these? I paid $425 still tryin to swallow that one lol

 

Ok, well my headers came with the flanges on the headers, and then a set of reducers that appear to go from 2-1/2 to 2". I am going to run 2 1/2" all the way, so I am trying to figure out what to do on my exhaust side as far as flanges go. Would I just stick that reducer inside the 2.5" pipe and weld it closed, or do I need to buy something to make it work to stay 2.5" all the way out?

I bought a summit aluminum radiator, 19x22 I think it was...Works awesome, was less than $150. I wasnt worried about looking factory though.

 

I got a new 1969 Mustang radiator for $100 in traded parts from a friend . I am running a Mustang radiator now with no problems plus they fit real nice too .

I will be tacking my exhaust over the winter sometime so any pictures will really help a lot of us out ! My headers also came with the small flange on the headers and a set of flanges to weld the exhaust up to . I want mine to go out the back of the bumper and have a Y up front for open exhaust when I want them loud !
Jim

 

Went to put the fuel pump on rolled the motor by hand it's locked up...pulled the starter still locked slid the trans back and it's free WTF!! Only thing I can think of is the torque converter??

 

Its possible the torque converter wasnt pushed all i the way into the trans. With the trans out, spin the converter over by hand while tapping it with the back of your fist, or lightly with Rubber Mallet. You will feel it slide in two or three time as it engages the pump. The way to know for sure is when bolting the trans and motor together the motor and trans should slide together and the bolts hold them together. Do Not use the bolts to pull them together. Once its together you should be able to jiggle the converter studs in the hole in the flexplate. If they dont jiggle around then the converter is not all the way seated in the trans.

 

Thanks Baron I we tried everything known to man.....The converter input was damaged when I got it I was hoping for the best but I can only think UPS dropped it and smushed the guts inside and it's binding up gonna look at it some more later.....dont wanna get to fustrated

 

Thanks!

 

Getting close gonna start it tonight.........if everything works!

 

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=C0cMlzn2-6g

 

Sounds real good

 

Sounds healthy! what mufflers are you running?

 

Mufflers? LOL I'm flat broke Jeff I'm using my old exhaust dual 1 3/4...after the holidays I'm gonna redo it with 2in and some gl***packs...I dont know havent made my mind up yet...But it is REAL healthy the little test drive I took I was very impressed!

 

What was the verdict on the converter? did UPS insurance cover it? always like to hear about"service after the sale" these days so folks know the good vendors from the bad.