Speedway for suspension!Got one for my wifes T real happy with it.Got a MAS suspension for my current project I'm not real happy with it,to put it mildy!
I agree with the Capt., Rick is a real cool guy. The picture below is my co-workers T-bucket. Frame and body (super strong) came from Rick. Also something Tingler said is exactly what I did, bought a 29 cowl and built myself a 29 Rpu! Rick also helped me some on it. Ricks the real deal. John
here's your 26-27 T roadster cowl. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1,1&item=4597286176&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWA%3AIT
Hey guys i just got off work and i'm amazed and very grateful for all of the replies. You all have very good suggestions. I need to do alot more surfing on the web to visit the various websites and things that yall have mentioned. I'm not opposed to steel by any means, actually that would be alot better, but it seems that they are hard to find or they're not in my area. When do we have the hamb relays here, and how much per mile do they cost? That T cowl on ebay is a killler deal right now, but i have no way of getting it here from arkansas. I also don't have a tubbing bender, i would have to use the one at the shop i work at, and they never have time to mess around with my stuff, which i guess is good and bad because they are getting alot of business, just i never get to use there equipment on personal stuff. Sparky we can definately talk about that SBF when i get over there hopefully next week. The Total Performance manual would be very helpful i think, but i do plan to have a bigger step up in the rear to get it sitting low. Sorry if i didn't respond to anyone else's post, but there were soo many, lol. I will let yall know what i come up with as soon as i can, and any more direction/advice is appreciated. Richie
I have an old Creative Gl*** Works catalog 18 pages of bodies pluss custom molding available their email is creativeglas.com I get to ther home page but don't know enough to get to their body page from there my computer skills aren't that strong tried their phone and get a busy signal just now 423-569-6359 I was expecting an automated answering service they are in Tenn.I'ts my understanding from someone at a car show booth that they supply bodies sold under other manufacturers names. at the time of my catalog they were supplying the bodies for the Gravedigger Monster trucks.Mabey a hamber that knows how to navigate web sites could look into this company.
Richie, I think a T-bucket is the perfect way for a young guy to break into hot rodding. I have a small shop here in IL. and I'm working on bringing to market a kit that is exactly what you are looking for. Not traditional Fad-T but rather a low slung old school T. Like something you'd see out on the dry lakes. I build my own frames. I use Speedway bodies because I have found them to be the best so far. My cars can use all old school stuff ie: lever shocks, non-dropped axle, flathead engine and old banjo rear. Or, update it a bit with a tube axle, tube shocks, small block Chevy and a Ford 9". If you'd like more info or pictures, please let me know. The car is "inspired by" my Dads old Ardun powered T from the late 60's. Do a search, either on here or Google for Cotton Werksman Ardun T and take a look and let me know what you think??? My car does not have a space frame like my Dads as cost would be high, but it does have a very unique ch***is that I designed and built to look correct and keep the car 4" off the ground. The over-all look is the same. Anyone else interested, please drop me a line... Take care, Matt
There was someone on here about 3 - 4 years ago that was building really low and long 'T's, .....I wanna think they were from the Michigan area....I just cannot remember who is was. Any of you other old-HAMB'rs remember ?
Hey, I checked on that E Bay T cowl from Arkansas (see one of the previous posts someone put up) and no one had even bid on it as of yet. The guy is asking a penny less than 25 bucks starting out. Last time I looked on a map I thought Arkansas was pretty close to Tennesee. Couldn't cost that much to get it home. Rough but looks from the pictures to be a pretty workable piece. 1 X 1 rectangular tube for a project like this doesn't need to be bent. You just need a chop saw and welder of some sort and some C-clamps for clamping to your workbench to hold the pieces in alignment and weld them. Even gas welding would work, if that's all you've got. Of course, a plan before you start would be helpful also (a little sarcasism there, don't mind me). With a couple of 2 X 4's, a few C-clamps, a Home Depot piano hinge, and a few screws to hang it all together, the edge of a wooden work bench is all you need make a poor man's sheet metal brake. A bead roller (yes, even the one that goes on sale at Harbor Freight all the time) would make the body a little prettier and stronger but isn't strictly necessary. I picked up some metal cabinet doors from the local metal s****yard that are made out 12 or 14 gage with compound piano hinges for a roll cab I'm making. Cost me 12 dollars for four of them. They are sturdy enough for a project like this with or without the above mentioned rectangular tubing, and about the right size. Admittedly the piano hinge would be a little unusual but certainly make for really sturdy door hinges, and the more I think about it, the more I think I'll go back over there and see if they've got any left, I don't mind well made square corners. Got access to a band saw with a metal cutting blade? Grab a couple of chunks of aluminum from the s****yard and va la, you got the start of windshield posts. A metal cutting blade in one of those little cheap skill type saws everyone seems to have laying around will curf them for gl***. Handfiles, sandpaper, and lots of industrious elbowgrease equal billet windshield posts on the cheap, (oops, forgot for a second, that's a dirty word around here). A couple of quarts of Rustoleum sprayed on and it's even painted! Total result- trick little body on the cheap! Model "A" axles usually go for cheap also because everybody wants the later stuff. Same for "bones" and the plus factor is they are usually found unsplit for the same reasons (You get to do with them what YOU want that way). Same said for Model "A" frames, although 2 X 3 or 4 rectangular tube from the s****yard will make a dandy frame if you're careful, and learn what you're doing beforehand, even put together right on the garage floor. Tingler sure sounds like someone you might try to visit if you got the chance. Time for me to stop digressing, but hey, this stuff sounds like fun! Would be interested to see what you come up with. Good luck.
hey matt, i just looked up your dad's T and it has the perfect stance. What kinda problems did it have with space, because i'm sure you have the trans and driveshaft tunnel taking up alot of space with it sitting that low. I would just like to find a happy medium. The roads around here aren't the best for low vehicles( i know because i have my truck is sitting too low and it s****es everywhere i go) But if you could PM me or something with prices or pics that you have would be great. I'm still trying to see what my options are before i jump into anything. I need to keep my eye on the cowl on e-bay, but arkansas may look close, but it would be a pretty long haul from middle tennessee i think. Richie
I got my 27 roadster body from TP, it was pretty good a few low spots and the seams were'nt quite lined up but I was happy with it, got the frame from TP also because they had a roadster frame stretched out a lil longer than the regular demension frame. Got a 4 inch drop axle and 36inch hairpins from MAS it took longer than they told me it would for the parts and I had to do some clean-up on a few of the welds but they were built strong and a value for the money I think. I went with a Wilwood front disk brake kit from Speedway for better braking,Speedway was the best to deal with over the phone and I would definately buy from them again. Just moved so I dont have pics to show. Should add that MAS seemed a good choice for me because they build parts to order a large variety in axle drops and widths and hairpin length just have to tell them what you want.
Here are a few buckets that i found on the sites that i got from here, i think one is the national t-bucket alliance page. Two of them are sitting sorta how i was thinking of doing it, and the yellow one isn't that low but still looks pretty cool. It remindes me of the kookie T the way the back end is in the air. I hope the pics work.
Hell's Custom in Arizona has a T-bucket that he will build for you for $12.000 with a Chevy crate motor and a turbo 350. Dennis http://www.hellscustoms.com/home.htm
Go steel - I bought gl*** and swapped it for steel. Cost less than gl*** even in the UK. Cowl is 27T, back panel and doors are 26 and the rest is fabricated. Ch***is is boxed (Boyd told me to do it) and Zeed 1921 One Ton T Truck. Engibe is 347 Poncho, rear end is 8.8 Ford, front end is 39 Ford, brakes are Lincoln Zephyr and springs are Model A.
nice looking car I'm jealous !hey is that a trike/car hiding behind it I'ge got an interest in those also like what do they use for p***enger heat
Hey blackjack, did you get those adaptor plates made for the filter housing? I've got my FI dummied up on the 421, I'll post some pictures for you next week or after new years if you're curious what looks like. I haven't had it on an engine since I pulled it off the 347 in my 57 Safari just before I sold the car in the late 70's. Just kept it on a coffee table or laying in the leg tunnel of my desk all these years and finally set it on top the 421 block on my bench about 4 months ago. Ever notice the older you get, the faster you need to go, and the slower you're going?
Blackjack, got to thinking about that remote filter idea after seeing your pictures. Instead of cluttering up your firewall, because it looks like you're using the stock generator and it's brackets, the space taken up by fan belts and pulleys would leave room to place the filter/housing in the area on the opposite side from the fuel pump behind the fan and if you made the mounting plate/adaptor long enough it could bolt to the front cover above the front engine mount bracket and you could hard line it. Probably look like Pontiac put it there originally.
Even better, hang it straight down off the water inlet elbow bolts of the right front cylinder head. Sorry for the multiple posts.
Some very good ideas there mate. I've located a Offy adapter but I'm finding the postage costs from the USA to the UK are crazy and I may need to make one. If I do that I may as well use a similar plate to mount the original canister. Like the hard line idea a lot.
>>nice looking car I'm jealous !hey is that a trike/car hiding behind it I'ge got an interest in those also like what do they use for p***enger heat Certainly is a trike. I can do you an nice one for $5,300 US and if you pay for it to be shipped to New York I'll drive it cross country to you for free. The trike in the picture has p***enger heat - just a shroud around the exhaust manifold and a tube into the ****pit.
Seeing your "T" is really getting me motivated. Thinking I might just have to borrow my brother's extra "A" body and starting mocking this thing up. 421, factory fuel injection, Muncie 4 spd with my original 1971 super shifter, build some smooth flowing sprint car like headers out of stainless, run it open engine compartment without a hood, use the Ansen Sprint slots I've been hoarding all these years, ya gotta like it.
That book is not in print. Have you seen what that book has gone for on ebay? They have been over $100. Haven't looked lately though. I have a copy. Bill
It is kind'a late as this thread has been going on for years now. But I would like to share my experience as I am just finishing a five year project on a 27 T fibergl*** roadster. I love the looks of it but I have to warn you of two things: 1...There is absolutely no room in the ****pit. I purchased a stretched version and I'm only five foot eight with a 29 inch inseam and I can just barely cram myself into the ****pit even with minimal upholstery. 2...If you dont buy one with at least one workable door you will have to wire the dash and under side of the cowl while standing on your head. Really, there is just no way to wire the p***enger compartment without istalling and removing the dash 15 to 20 times. I will never build another "T" If you look at an original "phone booth" Model T you will see that in a tub model you are actually sitting in the in the footwell of the original car. Don't mean to discourage anyone but those were two major difficulities I encountered.
I worked in the backroom at MAS way back when. If the quality hasn't improved (which I seriously doubt) I'd stay away from the body. They were considered "race weight" only even 40 years ago. The axles were thin, light weight tube that were really never ment for the street. I don't know what they sell now but do know they run a lot of the same ads with just the prices changed
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