**UPDATE** I have modified the headers now and have pretty thoroughly detailed it on my Mainline build blog here Header Fabrication if anyone else is doing the same thing it may help. Ok, many of you know or have read, but here it is again and I need to do something now. 302 in the 56 using full length Tri Y headers. They come out p***ed the factory exhaust holes, so I see a couple choices here. Keep in mind I dont currently have the skills to do this myself (yet), but I am trying to come up with the best plan. A friend of mine has plenty of skills to do this, has built his own headers, and he will likely help me. He has a suggestion as well. I need better pics to show the distance better, but here is some pics giving an idea how this looks. Driver side P*** Side Ok. The friend suggested that "if were his" he would basically treat it like an exhaust cutout. By this I mean cutting a hole in the header and welding in a new "side pide" that will be inline with the exhaust hole. He likes this because you can just cap off the original header end with a cap and wing nuts and then at any time go full open headers, easily. A picture below better describes what I mean here. I like the idea, although I really dont care that much about having the ability to go open headers, but hey, who knows. Now my concern with doing that was, well the exhaust has to travel to the end and then get forced back up then out the side one, when the header is capped off. Would this cause any problems? Strangely enough I found a product that is just for that. Showed them to my buddy and he said he could build them right up, no problem. They look pretty simple really. Anyway, they are made to slide up inside the header and use a blockoff plate to force it where you want it. So, I think all this would work pretty well. here is a pic of the powercaps that sanderson makes So thats one way. The other way I guess would be to cut the headers shorter and add in some mandrel bends to get them through the holes. Let me hear your thoughts on it all. I really want to get some exhaust done and this is my only holdup from doing that. If it makes any difference to your opinion, the collectors are 2-1/2" and I am going to run 2-1/2" exhaust. So if I am thinking correctly, even if I shortened the headers, which are 2.5", but then added in 2.5" pipe just bent in a different direction, I am really not shortening them at all, right? I am basically just changing their path
Well thinking about it at a physics stand point the g***es wouldn't really go down and then get forced backup. They would initially go down but as the pressured raises the g***es then would go the path of least resistance and then p*** out of your side pipe. You may lose some performance but I dont think it would be substantional enough to notice unless you are on the track and tenths of a second count.
1hot, thats why he thought to, I doubt you would notice it. What are you thoughts on the modification, like one or the other, why? Whats easier in case I get desperate and have a shop do it if he is too busy, which is the case lately.
Well I want to make sure I understand what you are fully doing. You say the the headers go past the factory cut outs in the frame. I dont have these on my car so this may be a stupid question but do you have to go through them? Can you run your exhaust any other way?
Yeah, look at the first pic...you see the end of the header at the collector, to the right you can see the hole in the frame. Its just p***ed that hole. I had him look it over and he said we could blow new holes in the frame and then fill in the factory holes, but the amount of work would be equal or more and he just didnt want to modify the car unless we had to. its so tight otherwise, there is no other choice, running then besided the trans is out of the question.
I also have Tri Y headers for my 55 Ford with a 302 but haven't done the swap yet . I was going to build a dump tube , basically what you are doing but a longer dump tube that will go out to the side by the rocker or rear of the front tire to simulate a fender well header look . It won't be hard to weld up and make yourself . Let me know how it works out for you . Jim
If you have the space cut the header where the pipes come together and then build a collector that then bends the proper direction. I think that would be your best bet.
I'm close to running into this same situation if you come up with a good idea LMK or the way you saying to modify the frame seems easier.
Just keep the y-block and you won't have this problem. J/K lol. If it were mine I woul cut the header and put mandrel bends in it. For me it would be for aesthetics.
As a side note trial fit the slot in the frame,I ran 2 1/4" exhaust and can barely get a pinky between the top and bottom of the pipe,2 1/2" may not clear.
When I do mine I am going to redo the headers at the 2 to 1 connection . That way I can route them anyway I like so I can run open headers or through the gl***-packs . I am still trying to figure a better way to do it using a cable to open & close the dumps whenever I want to . I know about the electric ones but can't afford those prices at all ! With regular style long tube headers I still prefer making a cut out off the header at the collector so the headers are going straight with the exhaust to the muffles coming off the side of the collector . I guess it really comes down to what works the best for the engines and header set up you have . Really the old skool set up that we use to use seemed to work the best . It was the "Y" adapter that bolted up to the headers that was caped off and the other end went to the mufflers . That is really the simplest way to do them , IMO ! Jim
Sounds good guys...good tip on the trial fit, better do that first. I will keep posted on what we do with this. I took some better pics showing this, the driver side will be easier, more meat to work with. The p*** side header goes further p***ed the hole. I guess for those of you that will run a 302 with Tri Y headers, you can see what you will be working with and start planning
I am really interested to see how yours works out too ! That might make mine go easier but I doubt it ! Jim
This may work,shorten existing collectors to about 3-4" past the primay tubes retaining the flange and add a block off plate get these collectors from ****** and run these thru the frame slots(may have to grind slot slightly) run this part number thru Google for a picture: 11026HKR
So Jeff, let me see if I understand your thoughts. The part your referenced, are you saying to weld that into the side of the headers like I was considering? Or are you saying to shorten my headers and weld the flange back on them, then bolt on the ****** parts and try to run the exhaust? Here is some CRUDE pics of what my helper wants to do. He is pretty set on this being the best way to do this, I would like to know why its not, if you think its not.
Your helper has the right idea from your sketch,the ****** pieces would come off the existing collector so they could be unbolted should you need to remove the header,the excess cut off these could have a matching flange welded to them to become the collector that attaches to the mandrel bends.You need the flanges before the frame slot on the inside (close to engine) so the header can be removed if need be.
I am basically going to do something like that with my Tri Y headers . I am going to cut the tube a couple inches from where the 2 tubes connect into one then do the same to the other one then weld on longer pipes and make the collector in a different area then work the mufflers and pipes in from there . I thought about reworking the headers to make fender well headers then tap off the collector and run the exhaust through the frame that way . Will know better when I get that far but just a couple different ideas . Jim
Ok, thought I would update some progress on my header mod. Remember this is where the p***enger side started We made some measurements and tested angles on a piece of pvc pipe. Once we were happy, we cut the header at about a 35 degree angle. Disregard the steel collar you see for now, its a v-band flange that I am using instead of standard gasket flanges. Now that its cut we simply flip it around Tack welded it together to test fit Forgot to take a pic of it on the car after it was angled, will get some after welding it up and reinstalling. Came out perfect dead center in the frame hole. The remainder of the exhaust should run pretty smooth now. Thank goodness I have a local guy to help with this, he knows a LOT more than me but hey I am learning.
That's really looking good ! Yes , isn't it nice to have a friend that knows what they are doing to help out some . Now when people want kustom exhaust work , maybe they should understand why it cost so much more . It's all the small cuts and welding to get it the way you want the exhaust to flow that is the hard part . That's if you want a very nice job or want a cheapo ****py hack job . Jim
Here is the finished look. I bought some silver colored high heat caliper paint I will be spraying all the welded areas with to keep the rust away. I have all the details about what I did on the blog
Coming along very nicely ! Are you going to grind it down some more ? I use the edge of a die grinder so the metal doesn't overheat . Also put some soapy water on the weld and blow through with are to make sure there are no leaks . Just a tip . Jim
The Jalopy Journal
