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Torquing Head Bolts

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Petey, Dec 18, 2005.

  1. Petey
    Joined: Feb 22, 2005
    Posts: 223

    Petey
    Member

    Im ready to torque down the heads on my 8ba.
    I was wondering what the proper way to do this would be.
    Thanks

    PS Already searched forums
     
  2. 296 V8
    Joined: Sep 17, 2003
    Posts: 4,666

    296 V8
    BANNED
    from Nor~Cal

    [​IMG]I I take them to 50lb's. 20 - 35 - 50 then back over a few times.:)
     
  3. Automotive Stud
    Joined: Sep 26, 2004
    Posts: 4,393

    Automotive Stud
    Member

    Yep, start in the middle and work out. Follow that chart. If you've got aluminum heads only go to 40-45 I think. As mentioned, work your way up to that torque too.

    I used the new felpro blue gaskets and sprayed them with silver paint on both sides, installed tacky. I don't know if that was nessisary but it worked good for me.

    Also retorque the heads again after it's been run 20 minutes or so. I did mine again after I broke in the cam. After that I ran all summer, and checked the torque at the end of the summer, it was fine.
     
  4. Petey
    Joined: Feb 22, 2005
    Posts: 223

    Petey
    Member

    Thank you very much
     
  5. pigpen
    Joined: Aug 30, 2004
    Posts: 1,624

    pigpen
    Member
    from TX USA

    Here is the head bolt tightening sequence for the Ford L head, 8-239 engine (8BA), that is shown in my Motors Truck Repair Manual, pg. 586, published by MOTOR, 250 West 55th st., New York 19, N.Y., Copyright 1963, The Hearist Corp. Max torque is listed at 70 Ft. Lbs. (pg. 576).

    pigpen

    [​IMG]
     
  6. 19Fordy
    Joined: May 17, 2003
    Posts: 8,378

    19Fordy
    Member

    Not rying to be picky but alum head bolts torque to 55 ibs on my 8BA.
     
  7. new2u
    Joined: Nov 22, 2005
    Posts: 157

    new2u
    Member
    from Okla

    Be sure to run a bolt or tap into each hole before you bolt the head on. That way the threads are clean.
    Also a touch of lube on the threads will help insure accurate readings. Or some use sealer.
     
  8. pigpen
    Joined: Aug 30, 2004
    Posts: 1,624

    pigpen
    Member
    from TX USA

    The torque spec in the manual is for the original cast iron heads. There seems to be a difference in info for the torque sequence though. I have read that the "X" pattern is not recommended. The "Book" is almost never wrong. That's what I use.

    pigpen
     
  9. draggin'GTO
    Joined: Jul 7, 2003
    Posts: 1,795

    draggin'GTO
    Member

    I don't think that running a tap into the holes is the best way to clean out the threads on a flatty, it ruins the fit of the stud or bolt as the threads are cut from the factory with a special tap for a tight fit from what I've read.

    Here's a link to a tech site with lots of good info submitted mostly by old timers who built 'em and ran 'em back in the day.http://www.btc-bci.com/~billben/flathead.htm
     
  10. Automotive Stud
    Joined: Sep 26, 2004
    Posts: 4,393

    Automotive Stud
    Member

    You need to torque the bolts more than earlier motors, or motors with studs. The fine thread studs grab tighter with less torque.
     
  11. Evel
    Joined: Jun 25, 2002
    Posts: 9,044

    Evel
    Member

    Any one have specs for 55' 322 Nailhead and 55' 331 Caddy?

    thanks in adv.
     
  12. Petey
    Joined: Feb 22, 2005
    Posts: 223

    Petey
    Member

    I torqued the heads down according to 296 V8 's diagram, but Pigpen posted another picture.

    Will there be a problem?
     
  13. seymour
    Joined: Jan 22, 2004
    Posts: 5,125

    seymour
    Member
    from PNW

    I always use copper spray on head gaskets.
     
  14. Jim Marlett
    Joined: Aug 12, 2003
    Posts: 869

    Jim Marlett
    Member

    296 V8's diagram is the '32-'48 order. I can't imagine it would matter a great deal which you used, but the "correct" way of doing it for an 8BA is Pigpen's.
     
  15. pigpen
    Joined: Aug 30, 2004
    Posts: 1,624

    pigpen
    Member
    from TX USA

    I also doubt that it will matter that much. Both methods work from the center to the outside, although in a different way, which is what you're looking to do. I also use the copper gasket sealer (on the bolt threads also) and the big bore copper head gaskets from Speedway Motors. No problems so far. :cool:

    pigpen
     

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